LoL! ok i thought that was a little extreme. Aside from that just don't damage any of the journals/ bearing? ... would you have any input on quality core plugs

 

What weight did you use for both break in and the vr1

 

30w for the break in, and 10w-30 for the valvoline.

 

Thanks! One last question before I start posting pictures of the assembly. Do you think that my stock rocker arms will hold up until I can afford better ones I know we spoke of the roller rocker but I can't afford it at the moment . Especially if I go with a ruler rockers there's more chances of catastrophic failure

 

Will this be a bad mark for the camshaft later as in to hinder oil supply or damage cam journal more severe?

I got the firing rail mounting bolts custom drilled and tapped on the 0630 cylinder head.

For those new bored at 030 over

 

I am gathering parts and gaskets for this weekend . Block is on stand so applied a thin layer of engine assembly lube that will proven rust in the meantime. I still need a timing cover gasket oil pan gasket rear main seal. I will be buying Brad Penn breaking oil at the machine shop nearby. And I think I'll go with what you mentioned that undersized Napa oil filter. Next week after I finished running it for the 200 to 500 miles suggested after breaking I will switch to the Rotella. Someone else suggested royal purple? In any input on that oil not too much knowledge on that. My other half's father is a certified Master mechanic so I will be able to provide accurate numbers. I have some minor special tools to help me with assembly. I have also fabricated a tool to install cam shaft. Not really anything crazy just something to help not score the camshaft journals.

 

The pans for those of you who don't know are for pre-soaking pushrods lifters etc.

 

Block is ready to go! Painted a nice ugly lime green. I think it looks good!

 

The actual part number for the oil filter is 1348 I just realized I put the wrong one. I use napa gold oil filters. It's been working just fine for me for the little I've ran it. No motor mount clearance issues despite what others may try to tell you. I like the lime green block but that's definitely going to be tough to keep clean haha. High temperature paint? The regular paint tends to peel off when it gets hot.

 

I was going for a bright color so it easy to see leaks. It's advertised with a dyno test exceeding 500*. I'm not sure what to paint the other parts . My oil filter "housing" has a through bolt giving me the option of position angle. Do you know if up down or sideways has any effect on performance/pressure? The cast number on block is 53008405. Block born 1992.

Tomorrow I will buy the brad penn breaking in oil suggested by you guys. The gold NAPA filterx2 one for breaking in one for daily use after break in. Four prong spark plugs, timing chain cover thermostat oil pan water pump gaskets and a rear main seal.

 

To use that filter you have to remove the filter adapter and thread it straight into the block. I just like that I don't have to worry about the filter adapter O-rings leaking. And I feel like it's easier to change out the filter. But it's entirely up to you if you want to remove the adapter.

 

New freeze plugs were easy install. My block is a 1992. Five(5) plugs on left side and "two (2)" on the back of block. The " signifies the one plug is actually named a cam shaft rear bearing plug, so when I bought my plug kit it doesn't provide a seventh (7th) plug given that the other one on back is not a coolant system plug.

 

The steel plug is the cam shaft rear bearing plug PN 565-069. NAPA are the only place that has them at the moment when I looked. Coolant plugs are 2" and the camshaft plug reads 2 9/64

 

Rear main seal installed really fast . There was residuals of the previous gasket which I thought was amazing due to the hot tank process beforehand.

 

I have began soaking my hydraulic two groove lifters in the brad penn break in oil. I suggest 24 hour soaking minimum prior to assembly .