Mid Atlantic West Virginia, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina

SW VA XJ's/MJ's, Roanoke/NRV to Bristol, post up!

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Old May 14, 2013 | 05:31 PM
  #691  
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From: va
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
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Originally Posted by xjtrailrider

No carrier break on the 8.25 either. Here is the one in the trail rig; 29 spline Yukon shafts, RuffStuff truss, RuffStuff cover tied into the truss, Crush sleeve eliminator, Titanium u-joint straps, Aussie Locker, cryoed Nitro 4.88 gears, shaved diff housing, raised shock mounts. All work done by me including gear set up(I do all my own gears)

Its been in the Jeep for 3 years
Beautiful!!!! Btw truss and brackets/tabs done!

SW VA XJ's/MJ's, Roanoke/NRV to Bristol, post up!-forumrunner_20130514_183118.jpg
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Old May 14, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #692  
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I'm green with envy. I wish my poor little Jeep was built up more. Dsmiller give me a call. I sent you a pm. Hit a snag on a water pump at work and might need to push back our meeting time.
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Old May 16, 2013 | 09:32 AM
  #693  
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From: Radford/Franklin Co
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6, K&N drop in filter, Poweraid throttle body spacer, mud, mud, and more mud
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Hey y'all hope ya can help me. My xjs been giving me a lil trouble starting. Ill have it in park and will try to start it and get nothing. It wont turn over, won't click nothing. Ill drop it in neutral and shell start right up. But sometimes ill put it in neutral and get nothing, put it in park and nothing. Then ill try again and shell crank like nothing wrong. I changed my starter yesterday and the nss has been swapped outing the last 7 years or so. Any ideas of what's wrong or where to begin diagnosis?
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Old May 16, 2013 | 10:08 AM
  #694  
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I might guess an ignition cylinder problem. Maybe a short in the wires to your starter. I had an issue like that in my 78 f150 and i had a wire shorting out at the starter. Might recheck your nss because it could be bad again if it has been 7 years.
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Old May 16, 2013 | 01:11 PM
  #695  
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From: Radford/Franklin Co
Year: 99
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Engine: 4.0 I6, K&N drop in filter, Poweraid throttle body spacer, mud, mud, and more mud
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I was thinking that maybe the nss got a lil bit of dirt on it. Hopefully it wont need replacing
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Old May 16, 2013 | 01:26 PM
  #696  
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First thing to do would be clean up all your connections and slap on some dielectric grease. Also make sure your grounds are solid. My truck was missing a ground from the alternator to the body. But that's because a bunch of rednecks had it before me.
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Old May 16, 2013 | 04:02 PM
  #697  
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The NSS(Neutral Safety Switch) needs cleaning. Its a common issue with all AW4 equipped XJ's. Its easy to fix as well. Here is a write up;http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...safety_switch/

This is a common "no crank" issue in park but will start in neutral.
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Old May 16, 2013 | 09:02 PM
  #698  
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From: Radford/Franklin Co
Year: 99
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Appreciate it! Sometimes it will crank in park sometimes not. Im gonna clean it sometime this weekend
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Old May 17, 2013 | 04:12 PM
  #699  
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Guess who gets to put a new head in there heep? This guy! Can't you tell how excited i am? If anyone is bored next weekend wrenching help is always appreciated.
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Old May 17, 2013 | 06:45 PM
  #700  
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Originally Posted by DesertStorm92XJ
Guess who gets to put a new head in there heep? This guy! Can't you tell how excited i am? If anyone is bored next weekend wrenching help is always appreciated.
Why?
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Old May 17, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #701  
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Couple reasons. Main one is I've been burning a considerable amount of oil since I got the Jeep. But rather than just replace the valve seals that I am pretty sure are shot I figured it might be safer to do the whole head and all the gaskets. Then i can do my main bearings and my rear main while i have the motor torn down.
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 04:04 PM
  #702  
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Originally Posted by DesertStorm92XJ
Couple reasons. Main one is I've been burning a considerable amount of oil since I got the Jeep. But rather than just replace the valve seals that I am pretty sure are shot I figured it might be safer to do the whole head and all the gaskets. Then i can do my main bearings and my rear main while i have the motor torn down.
I'd it makes you feel better I burn a lot of oil too
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 04:36 PM
  #703  
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It feels like its unsafe how much i burn. Diesel oil of all things. But it only does it after idling a couple minutes. I'm trying to buy a little beater truck next paycheck then I'll take the heep out of service a few weeks to straighten out the motor.
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 04:52 PM
  #704  
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Originally Posted by DesertStorm92XJ
It feels like its unsafe how much i burn. Diesel oil of all things. But it only does it after idling a couple minutes. I'm trying to buy a little beater truck next paycheck then I'll take the heep out of service a few weeks to straighten out the motor.
Have you made sure your CCV orifice is clear and not clogged? This would be the elbow at the back of the valve cover. It will have a vacuum line going from it to the intake manifold. Make sure it is hooked up and does not have any vacuum leaks either.

If the CCV orifice is clogged, crankcase gasses from blow-by(all engines have some blow-by) will force the oil by the rings or out the CCV breather tube(or both) and into the air box and back into the intake where it ends up back in the combustion chamber where it shouldn't be. Thus, you burn oil because a 3/32" hole(or whatever size it is) gets clogged. Its a "domino" effect.

The elbow is cheap even at the dealer, $16 I think.
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 05:06 PM
  #705  
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I have been meaning to replace both the ccv and pcv but have been neglecting to because I didn't think the impact could be that high. I'll pick up a couple after work today. Nice to have an advance auto next to the shop.
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