PA cherokee club
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 3
From: Newport, pa
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looks good. Just debating if the 2", or whatever it is, is worth the hassle. I'd get the new design one that doesn't require grinding the rig gear. But still, I feel like even after shaving it's going to get hung up on stuff so why even do it haha, let it self-shave.
I'm also going to get the RS bolt on brake brackets then just source the rest from Napa on one of their bucket days; plus it'll be easier to replace parts.
Have you had this out yet? Or still a project? Just wondering how you like the leafs in the rear. I'm debating getting ORI's all around for ease of install and less brackets, and prob come out cheaper by the time I factor in sways and bumps.
I'm also going to get the RS bolt on brake brackets then just source the rest from Napa on one of their bucket days; plus it'll be easier to replace parts.
Have you had this out yet? Or still a project? Just wondering how you like the leafs in the rear. I'm debating getting ORI's all around for ease of install and less brackets, and prob come out cheaper by the time I factor in sways and bumps.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 3
From: Newport, pa
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Tmr kit is 15 bolt, which is what I have. Barnes off-road sells a 13 bolt kit, which is basically just a fancy cover from what I remember, and you cut the bottom of the housing off right through the center of the bottom bolt..... Thus making it 13....
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 3
From: Newport, pa
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My disc's are RS brackets, with advance auto couponed parts.... Came out be under 200 total, with new wheel studs. I like the shave kit, I think it was worth it, but YMMV. The leafs are temporary due to budget. I'm in the process of doing 16" coil overs up front, a metric **** ton of tube work, d60, 300/231 doubler.... In a few years I'll triangulated 4 link the rear with 14" c/o's...
I will be doing 4 link from and rear right off the bat, as I don't have anything invested into the build yet other than the 14 bolt and some misc stuff; waiting to find the right XJ for $800 or less as my base. This will be my slow build where I teach myself to weld and gear an axle so it will be slow going. My friend sweats by c/o's but after a lot of research I'm leaning towards ORI's.
What kind of tube work? Exo?
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 3
From: Newport, pa
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sounds similar to what I have planned haha. I'll be keeping the stock 231 for now, and keeping it at a 4.0 for a while, and then probably 4.2.
I will be doing 4 link from and rear right off the bat, as I don't have anything invested into the build yet other than the 14 bolt and some misc stuff; waiting to find the right XJ for $800 or less as my base. This will be my slow build where I teach myself to weld and gear an axle so it will be slow going. My friend sweats by c/o's but after a lot of research I'm leaning towards ORI's.
What kind of tube work? Exo?
I will be doing 4 link from and rear right off the bat, as I don't have anything invested into the build yet other than the 14 bolt and some misc stuff; waiting to find the right XJ for $800 or less as my base. This will be my slow build where I teach myself to weld and gear an axle so it will be slow going. My friend sweats by c/o's but after a lot of research I'm leaning towards ORI's.
What kind of tube work? Exo?
Anywho, cliffnotes
4.2? The old pre 4.0's? Why?
4 link front, triangulated? There extremely difficult to fit properly in the front of an xj, if you're taking straight 4 link, why not just do a 3 link? Easier to package, less chance of binding, cheaper
Ori's are expensive lol
My jeep is chopped, internal main cage, heavy front pinch, haven't finished rear of the cage yet.

Last edited by foxmxrcer; Mar 10, 2016 at 08:31 PM.
First off.... **** this good damn piece of ****ing **** donkey ****ing **** sucking app....I had a huge message typed up, went to add a picture, which is a terrible experience BTW..... And the ****er crashes and sends me back to the thread...... Anywho, cliffnotes 4.2? The old pre 4.0's? Why? 4 link front, triangulated? There extremely difficult to fit properly in the front of an xj, if you're taking straight 4 link, why not just do a 3 link? Easier to package, less chance of binding, cheaper Ori's are expensive lol My jeep is chopped, internal main cage, heavy front pinch, haven't finished rear of the cage yet.
My plan was to use the crank and rod from a 4.2 to stroke it, sorry if that was misleading. I will not be swapping in a 4.2 haha.
Yes I was planning triangulated front, I have a friend that will be helping with all the fab at his shop, who is also building a tube buggy, and has built crawlers before. He has experience with 4 links so I trust his judgement.
Yes the initial upfront of ORI are expensive, but factor in everything that goes into c/o's: springs (notice it's plural, you won't get the rate right off the bat), bumps stops(most likely air bumps), and sway bar(most likely an anti rock). Yes you can use cheaper set ups but most likely if you're going tons and c/o's you're not going to run cheap stuff. Then factor in all the time and efforts setting all that up as opposed to setting up one "strut".
First off.... **** this good damn piece of ****ing **** donkey ****ing **** sucking app....I had a huge message typed up, went to add a picture, which is a terrible experience BTW..... And the ****er crashes and sends me back to the thread...... Anywho, cliffnotes 4.2? The old pre 4.0's? Why? 4 link front, triangulated? There extremely difficult to fit properly in the front of an xj, if you're taking straight 4 link, why not just do a 3 link? Easier to package, less chance of binding, cheaper Ori's are expensive lol My jeep is chopped, internal main cage, heavy front pinch, haven't finished rear of the cage yet.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 3
From: Newport, pa
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I hear you on the app, 75% my usage is on the app, I don't even bother with photos anymore haha.
My plan was to use the crank and rod from a 4.2 to stroke it, sorry if that was misleading. I will not be swapping in a 4.2 haha.
Yes I was planning triangulated front, I have a friend that will be helping with all the fab at his shop, who is also building a tube buggy, and has built crawlers before. He has experience with 4 links so I trust his judgement.
Yes the initial upfront of ORI are expensive, but factor in everything that goes into c/o's: springs (notice it's plural, you won't get the rate right off the bat), bumps stops(most likely air bumps), and sway bar(most likely an anti rock). Yes you can use cheaper set ups but most likely if you're going tons and c/o's you're not going to run cheap stuff. Then factor in all the time and efforts setting all that up as opposed to setting up one "strut".
My plan was to use the crank and rod from a 4.2 to stroke it, sorry if that was misleading. I will not be swapping in a 4.2 haha.
Yes I was planning triangulated front, I have a friend that will be helping with all the fab at his shop, who is also building a tube buggy, and has built crawlers before. He has experience with 4 links so I trust his judgement.
Yes the initial upfront of ORI are expensive, but factor in everything that goes into c/o's: springs (notice it's plural, you won't get the rate right off the bat), bumps stops(most likely air bumps), and sway bar(most likely an anti rock). Yes you can use cheaper set ups but most likely if you're going tons and c/o's you're not going to run cheap stuff. Then factor in all the time and efforts setting all that up as opposed to setting up one "strut".
I'm confused on your strut vs coil over argument..... You need bump stops and sway bars with both setups.... Sway bars are completely optional, but bump stops would be highly recommended. Most reputable dealers will swap coil springs for you if they're still like new. Also, getting proper corner weights will reduce the risk of incorrect spring rates, and you still need the proper spring rate for struts, so what's the difference there? Maybe I'm missing something.... Never really looked into struts much
Do some serious research on triangulated 4 link front full body xj's...... They're far and few between..... I'm confused on your strut vs coil over argument..... You need bump stops and sway bars with both setups.... Sway bars are completely optional, but bump stops would be highly recommended. Most reputable dealers will swap coil springs for you if they're still like new. Also, getting proper corner weights will reduce the risk of incorrect spring rates, and you still need the proper spring rate for struts, so what's the difference there? Maybe I'm missing something.... Never really looked into struts much
Xjwonders....thanks, and yeah I know of him. He's friends with some of my buddies. I've met him once or twice. Actually we used his Jeep couple yrs ago to pull a XJ Wagoneer out that I got stuck. If it's the same Jake!
he's Foxmxrcer here. The jeep got a confederate flag painted on the top.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,820
Likes: 3
From: Newport, pa
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Those ORI struts have built in bump stops that can be adjusted. I'm not talking about regular struts and coil springs, sorry if that was misleading. Also depending on how you mount them they act as a sway bar too. They adjust with nitrogen to get the rate you want, no messing with springs. Air in or out, that's it. I've done some research on them, but not much on the 4 link front, I was just trusting my friend.
You're Jeff's neighbor -.-



