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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 10:52 PM
  #31036  
NewKindOfClown's Avatar
Moderator of Jeeps
 
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by nowhres
700R4? Probably just needs a good flush
Yessir, 700R4.

Originally Posted by nowhres
I miss mine, had a well built 1992 Z28. Would love to get another.
My '92 Z28 was totaled. This is my '91 Z28.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 10:56 PM
  #31037  
nowhres's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5,153
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From: Crofton, MD
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6, 62mm BBK Throttle Body w/ 1" Spacer, Rusty's Airtube w/ 9" K&N Conical
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Yessir, 700R4.


My '92 Z28 was totaled. This is my '91 Z28.


Sadly, my 1992 was totaled also. Only car I ever wrecked. Was run of the road by a VDOT dump truck
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 03:31 AM
  #31038  
yellaklein's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,036
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From: Mt Airy, MD
Year: 1997/2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: both 4.0's
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Morning all, seems to be the season of the OVER HEATING syndrome.. Got my black beauty back on the road. Was heading down the road about 10 miles from the house when the gauge started climbing and the warning "bing" check your gauges came on. Pulled over, to see what was up. The fans were both working. Turned it off waited a few and let it cool. So now racking my brain.

1st thing was pull the t-stat and boil test it to see when it opens. it opened just shy of 200 degrees which was good, it was a 195..

swapped with a know good one and drove down the road again and she got hot..

so was left scratching my head..

So i'm thinking, it has to be the water pump... the front bearing seem good no play at all in it.

So plan this week is swap water pumps then test drive it and keep my fingers crossed.. if not maybe a gas soaked rag in the gas fill neck and wa la, a nice big Molatov Cocktail to go..



Morning all..

Last edited by yellaklein; Jun 11, 2012 at 06:15 AM.
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 04:25 AM
  #31039  
gone4x4's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: glen burnie md
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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to the rock pile--ahhh another 6 day week bustin rocks and takin shots!!!
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 05:55 AM
  #31040  
Leefer1977's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 513
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From: Calvert County MD
Year: 1984
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 L 4cyc
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Morning all. How is everyone. Sorry I haven't been on in a while the job and other stuff.
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 06:33 AM
  #31041  
SDC's Avatar
SDC
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by nowhres
X2

You the first I seen that actually knows about the A/C system
I do it everyday. Not on cars though. Yachts! I install and service custom refrigeration and air conditioning.
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 07:06 AM
  #31042  
yellaklein's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Mt Airy, MD
Year: 1997/2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: both 4.0's
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Originally Posted by SDC
I do it everyday. Not on cars though. Yachts! I install and service custom refrigeration and air conditioning.
Nice, i'm sure you got some stories..
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 07:27 AM
  #31043  
jakbob's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,006
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From: Pasadena, MD
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
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Originally Posted by yellaklein
Morning all, seems to be the season of the OVER HEATING syndrome.. Got my black beauty back on the road. Was heading down the road about 10 miles from the house when the gauge started climbing and the warning "bing" check your gauges came on. Pulled over, to see what was up. The fans were both working. Turned it off waited a few and let it cool. So now racking my brain.

1st thing was pull the t-stat and boil test it to see when it opens. it opened just shy of 200 degrees which was good, it was a 195..

swapped with a know good one and drove down the road again and she got hot..

so was left scratching my head..

So i'm thinking, it has to be the water pump... the front bearing seem good no play at all in it.

So plan this week is swap water pumps then test drive it and keep my fingers crossed.. if not maybe a gas soaked rag in the gas fill neck and wa la, a nice big Molatov Cocktail to go..



Morning all..
auto or stick transmission? overheating at a stand still or moving?

Originally Posted by SDC
I do it everyday. Not on cars though. Yachts! I install and service custom refrigeration and air conditioning.
i may talk to you about mine. PO took the lower line and condenser off years ago, and i want my damn ac lol
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 08:08 AM
  #31044  
SDC's Avatar
SDC
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by jakbob
auto or stick transmission? overheating at a stand still or moving?



i may talk to you about mine. PO took the lower line and condenser off years ago, and i want my damn ac lol
Maybe we need an A/C day!
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 08:17 AM
  #31045  
jakbob's Avatar
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From: Pasadena, MD
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
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Originally Posted by SDC
Maybe we need an A/C day!
Yes... so bad. The compressor is still good... it actually has close off valves right behind it. I assume i have to change out all of the parts because they have been exposed to atmo for so long?
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 08:30 AM
  #31046  
jimmy21669's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Berea, OH
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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YAY!!! We're back!

http://www.myunibody.com/forum/searc...ch_id=newposts

It took our host service 5 days to get up and running...5 days!!
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 08:32 AM
  #31047  
Green2000's Avatar
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From: Sykesville, Md
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by SDC
A recharge would require the system to be put on a vacuum first. I sucked mine down to 500 microns about 40 min. The deep vacuum is what boils off moisture and other (stuff) The gauges need to be purged properly when connected to the system also to prevent contamination. Then you can charge the system to an exact amount. The XJ took 20 ounces of R134.

If it was topped off then that means there is a leak.

If it shutting off on a pressure switch it is seen in the gauges. If pressures look good then jump out one switch at a time. or test with a meter to see whats cutting it off. Is the compressor clutch still spinning or is it truly being shut off?
I can turn on the ac and the clutch locks and the compressor is spinning, I get cold air for about 10 min and then it starts getting warm, check the compressor and the clutch has disengaged. After maybe 15 minutes or so it locks back up and I get cold air again for another 10 and then the same thing.
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 08:38 AM
  #31048  
yellaklein's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,036
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From: Mt Airy, MD
Year: 1997/2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: both 4.0's
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Originally Posted by jakbob
auto or stick transmission? overheating at a stand still or moving?



i may talk to you about mine. PO took the lower line and condenser off years ago, and i want my damn ac lol
X a few for the talk about the AC with ya.. :-)


Dr J,

it is an auto, overheated while going down the road at a brisk pace of 55 miles an hour.

whatz your guess kind sir??
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 08:59 AM
  #31049  
dukie564's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Originally Posted by jakbob
Yes... so bad. The compressor is still good... it actually has close off valves right behind it. I assume i have to change out all of the parts because they have been exposed to atmo for so long?
I believe (correct me if i'm wrong) but if it pulls vacuum ok the only part you would need to replace is the receiver/drier (aka the accumulator)
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 09:22 AM
  #31050  
jakbob's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4,006
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From: Pasadena, MD
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
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Originally Posted by yellaklein
X a few for the talk about the AC with ya.. :-)


Dr J,

it is an auto, overheated while going down the road at a brisk pace of 55 miles an hour.

whatz your guess kind sir??
my theory on that is;

your transmission is running hot due to an air bubble in the trans cooler.
when your tranny runs hot, your radiator doesnt cool as well. mainly because it is a combo rad. part trans cooler, part rad. or your radiator is clogged, wether it be internally, or there is something wrong with the foils (either bent or clogged with debris).

Originally Posted by dukie564
I believe (correct me if i'm wrong) but if it pulls vacuum ok the only part you would need to replace is the receiver/drier (aka the accumulator)
ive heard a lot of things. the condenser was cut out, and i have heard that when the entire system is exposed to air, you gotta replace it all. i havent done anything cause i havent gotten a straight answer i am confident in.
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