Four Corners Colorado, New Mexico, Utah & Arizona

Northern Utah BS thread

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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 11:22 AM
  #5881  
mike20's Avatar
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From: SLC Utah
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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ya id recommend running a steering box brace 31's and up and if you get into 35's then plate it... or else you can end up like mine is split all the way around
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 11:23 AM
  #5882  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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There ya go mike get some steel... we will fab some up! I went with 3/16 on my steering box tho, cause the 1/4" detour backbone mounts to my box bolts.
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 11:27 AM
  #5883  
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From: SLC Utah
Year: 1998
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i already bought the plate, i have a 3x3' 3/16" piece my problem is finding the time to fix it oh and i need to get longer steering box bolts and a piece of solid bar
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #5884  
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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Engine: 4.0
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What's the solid bar for? Did you bend that box neck brace that goes to the pass. side?
Does your bumper mount with the box bolts?
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:15 PM
  #5885  
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From: provo, utah
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Can you guys post pic so I can have an Idea of what I'm doing
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #5886  
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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Engine: 4.0
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What size tires are you running?
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:22 PM
  #5887  
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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are there any templates to use? or do i have to tear it all our. measure. cut and reinstall all at once? i want to plate mine while I install stiffeners from front to back...
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:24 PM
  #5888  
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From: provo, utah
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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33 bfg 's
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:48 PM
  #5889  
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From: SLC Utah
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
What's the solid bar for? Did you bend that box neck brace that goes to the pass. side?
Does your bumper mount with the box bolts?

im drilling wholes through the frame and plates and welding the rod in the whole for added strength and also so the frame wont crush. and no im adding an additional 3/8 of an inch so the bolts need to be about a 1/2" longer
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:51 PM
  #5890  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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Year: 1989 2 door
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Engine: 4.0
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I just made a cardboard template to go off of. Most guys weld it, but I'm just bolting mine on all the way back to the track bar mount!
Northern Utah BS thread-imag0075.jpg

Last edited by builtnotbought89'; Apr 14, 2011 at 12:53 PM.
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 01:04 PM
  #5891  
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From: SLC Utah
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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frame plating



infamous unibody tearing
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #5892  
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From: SLC Utah
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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Originally Posted by builtnotbought89'
I just made a cardboard template to go off of. Most guys weld it, but I'm just bolting mine on all the way back to the track bar mount!
Attachment 44705

if your just going to bolt yours on, your going to want to drill holes like i a, but weld tube with the same hole diameter as the bolts your going to use... just so you dont compress your frame

im just supprised your not welding it on lol
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 01:26 PM
  #5893  
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
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Engine: 4.0
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It's just a pita to get in there with a welder! It will be more than enough strength with the 1/4" (outer) bumper mounting bracket, & 3/16" (inner) plate back to the track bar!

I can see doing yours up better, cause its already ripped.
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 02:09 PM
  #5894  
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From: SLC Utah
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
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if anyone is interested i can make the jcr unibody bumper tie- in brackets that i can make for $35 a set you will just need to get the bolts to mount it


if you want any more info go here
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/...ry_Code=XJMISC


Attached Images  

Last edited by mike20; Apr 14, 2011 at 02:12 PM.
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:55 PM
  #5895  
builtnotbought89''s Avatar
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From: SLC, UT
Year: 1989 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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ATR guys check out the social group.



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