Sorry, BrandOn...lol. Did you get that junky 88 XJ home? I will be heading down to Chehalis this coming Friday and staying the weekend. Are you interested in meeting up somewhere to get a tranny and TC? If so, I will bring them with me.

 

I will be in the woods that weekend. I will figure out when we can meet up. I gotta get some windows from mudderx too

 

I have no idea what kind of tranny I need, but if that one, how much would you want for one of those?

 

They are $100.00 each to anybody.

 

Would thy be the right one for mine? Like I said I her no idea :P but if you're heading to chehalis i might have to pick up one of those bad boys from ya

 

The xj from 87-2001 only came with one auto transmission. the aw4. It will work for ya if yours is an auto.

 

Nothing yet its just been feeling like its slipping maybe, but when I went for a cruise yesterday it felt like it was working fine. I hate autos, when a clutch is slipping you know what the problem is... anyways if you still have one when it dies I'll hit you up.

 

How long has it been since you did a tranny fluid and filter change? I also know a way to do a "poor man's or do it yourself" tranny flush. So, don't pay a shop $200 to do one for you thinking that you can't on the Jeep. If you have good clean fluid and the level is right, you may have bigger problems like a solenoid going out. Don't write your tranny off just yet. The Aisian AW-4 trannys in our XJs are pretty bomb proof. There are things we can check out and fix without dumping the whole tranny some of the time.

 

what is this poor man's do it yourself trany flush you speak of? i need to do mine. i just checked the fluid and the level is good but the fluid is a nasty dark brown color.

 

Its really pretty simple. You will need a bucket, about 2 gallons of fresh Dexron II-V automatic tranny fluid, a new filter and a replacement quick disconnect clip for the connection where the tranny cooler "RETURN" line goes into the passenger side of your tranny.

You will need to disconnect the tranny cooler return line from where it goes into the side of your tranny. For this next step it helps to have a buddy to help you. You will need to put the end of that tranny cooler line, that you disconnected, into the bucket. Now you start the motor and let it run until fluid stops coming out of the line. As soon as the flow starts to taper off, SHUT THE MOTOR OFF!!! If you run it dry you will cause damage to your tranny or torque converter or both. Okay, so as soon as the flow startes to taper off, shut off the motor. Now, you take a funnel and refill the tranny pan through the didpstick tube. Then, REPEAT as many times as you need to until you feel you have straight clean fluid coming out of the cooler line. After the last time of running the motor til fluid stops coming out. Now, its time to pull the pan...noticing that you will need to pull the dipstick tube apart at the joint about 5 inches up from the pan...and replace the tranny filter. Then, clean up the pan mating surface and run a beed of high temp. RTV sealant around the pan and put it back on. Making sure the dipstick tube is properly seat at the junction where it comes apart. Then, you need to put your new quick disco clip onto your tranny cooler return line and "PROPERLY" seat it into the tranny. I stress proper seating because if you dont when you go to start your jeep you are going to have a bigger mess than you already have to clean up. Once the cooler line is put back on, fill the tranny with clean Dexron II-V and check for the proper level. Done!!

 

simple enough. thanks. thats going on my ever gorwing to do list. i really need to move to a place where i can work on the jeep. it sucks not being able to go home after work and work on it.

 

Last night there was a brief downpour so I took a break from working on my deck. I started tearing down the D30. I got the steering pulled off, the brakes pulled off, the hubs pulled off and the axle shafts pulled. I took a close up pic of whats left of the last Duracrap Gold knuckle U-joint. My other one grenaded on the trail up at Walker a few months back. As soon as the rain lightened up i got back on the deck. I didn't get much done but it's a start.

 

Well guys, I know I told you all I would be getting Great White's lift put on this weekend. Family stuff came up and that is always priority number 1 with me. Needless to say I didn't get the lift put on but I did get a little more of the tear down on my D30 done. Unfortunatelty it was all pretty much bad news. As you all know from my previous post. the Duracrap Gold Knuckle U-joint for the right hand (longside) axle was toast. Well, once I separated the axle shaft from the hub unit bearing I realized it also was toast. You can see in the pic the silver colored ring showing that should still be inside where you can't see it.Also, when I would spin the hub it sounded like a popcorn popper inside the thing. I really honestly don't know what kept it from locking up because I've never seen a hig this bad before that still rolled. The 2nd pic is of both of my hubs. The hub from the left axle is now seized. I could not turn it by hand and putting it in my vice and turning it by putting my pry bar between the lug studs it would just barely turn. So it is toast, too. The 3rd pic shows the good axle shaft Alex gave me to use on the last Walker valley run. That axle is the only piece I've found good in the entire axle assembly so far. I'm pretty sure the ring and pinion gears I recenrly replaced are fine as I believe all the front axle vibes I was feeling were coming from bad knuckle U-joints and bad Hub Unit bearings.

 

So, then I move on to removing the Balljoint nuts so I can take the knuckle assemblies off. Remember the left upper balljoint I showed you a couple of posts back that had slipped out of the C frame a bit? Well as soon as I removed the castle nut that holds the knuckle to the balljoint, the ball joint slipped right out of the C frame the rest of the way and I pulled it out with my hand. So, the knuckle nut was the only thing holding it in. Not very happy about that at all. I was thinking about giving the outfit I got those Ball Joints from a call and making them give me all new under warranty...supposedly lifetime. The only thing is the ball joint didn't break. It just popped out of the axle C so I guess that makes it my own fault for not pressing it in correctly, though I've looked back through my Cheap Super D30 build pics. That ball joint was pressed all the way in when I did it. Oh well, I will press it back in and see how it holds.

 

That sucks buck=[. I hope the hole where the ball joint goes isnt worn out causing it to slip out...