Progress update on my lift
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From: Federal Way, WA
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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From: Burington Washington
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L Renix
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From: Mt. Vernon Washington
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
If I were you, I'd pick up some adjustable control arms. Get away from the crappy stock ones, especially if it's your daily driver. Also do you have a SYE? If not, get one now!!
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From: Mt. Vernon Washington
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
As you increase lift, you need longer control arms. This is where the adjustable arms come into play. Without them, your front axle will not be centered in the wheel well and will move back with more lift, as I can see in your pics. I would suggest installing adjustable upper and lower control arms and skip the drop brackets. Best advice I was given for building my rig, was "spend money to save money" and if you can't afford it then pic a new hobby.
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From: Mt. Vernon Washington
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
Last edited by gilbertxj466; Jun 28, 2012 at 09:08 AM.
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From: Burington Washington
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L Renix
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Mt. Vernon Washington
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
I totally disagree!! The angle of the castor on your front axle is something that should be set properly, which adjustable arms do. To inform someone that it is not crucial is a horrible idea and could result in someone getting injured of even killed. You are NOT a licensed engineer, so you should not be passing information like this along. NWhunter, all lift components and other upgrades are designed for a purpose, which is to maintain the proper geometry and keep you and those around you safe on the road. You can bet that if I see Oxen rolling down the road, I will be heading in his opposite direction.
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From: Mt. Vernon Washington
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
Here is a link, that has a chart to tell the control arm length based on lift height.
http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=9520
"At 3", you will be ok with stock arms, just expect the axle to move back toward the cab a little and some minor bumpsteer."
Youre over 3".
http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=9520
"At 3", you will be ok with stock arms, just expect the axle to move back toward the cab a little and some minor bumpsteer."
Youre over 3".
Last edited by gilbertxj466; Jun 28, 2012 at 12:50 PM.
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From: covington
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by gilbertxj466
I totally disagree!! The angle of the castor on your front axle is something that should be set properly, which adjustable arms do. To inform someone that it is not crucial is a horrible idea and could result in someone getting injured of even killed. You are NOT a licensed engineer, so you should not be passing information like this along. NWhunter, all lift components and other upgrades are designed for a purpose, which is to maintain the proper geometry and keep you and those around you safe on the road. You can bet that if I see Oxen rolling down the road, I will be heading in his opposite direction.
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From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
X 3!!! Keeping the proper front wheel geometry is critical in preventing the dreaded Death Wobble, Cherokees are known to get when not lifted properly or when front end componants get excessively worn. Having experienced it myself at highway speed in my son's XJ once...it was VERY FRIGHTENING!!


