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Yes Another renix low idle problem

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Old 01-04-2018, 11:22 AM
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Go to www.cruiser54.com and there's a write up with photos.
Old 01-04-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Go to www.cruiser54.com and there's a write up with photos.
I have read it about 5 times now along with the tdc write up, the diagram I and J tells the story but I just wanted to make sure. measure a 1/2" off the end of the tab, make a straight line, cut the tab off at that line??
Old 01-04-2018, 04:41 PM
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Before I cut anything, I would just bring it TDC and scribe a line on the body where the #1 electrode is in the cap and pull the cap.
See that its pointing at the scribe mark.
Grab distributor shaft and make sure its not wobbley loose from a worn bushing.
if this good I would think about drilling a small hole in the TB bufferfly to give it more air so idle is up.
Renix is a strange thing and when all fails improvise lol.
Old 01-05-2018, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Abaka
I have read it about 5 times now along with the tdc write up, the diagram I and J tells the story but I just wanted to make sure. measure a 1/2" off the end of the tab, make a straight line, cut the tab off at that line??
Yes. You're just making an allowance for the distributor to rotate.
Old 01-13-2018, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Just do the indexing.
Just got finished indexing and no change in low idle problem. When I first started it up it sounded smother and hard start didn't happen. But after it warmed up a little the same thing as before. Any other ideas?? I'm gunna go ahead and block the egr with some tin and bolt it back down just to make sure that's not it. But other than that idk. Might even try taking that bleeder screw all the way out. I've back it out about a revolution and a half and it seemed different in a slightly positive way
Old 01-13-2018, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Just do the indexing.
The rotor was on the other side of the #1 post. Barely there, seemed pretty far off
Old 01-13-2018, 05:45 PM
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Also I was thinking about picking up a ecu reader and I was curious if it would be worth getting? The unit I was looking at is homemade looks pretty legit if it functions well.

https://nickintimedesign.wordpress.com/ that's the site. Have you heard anything about these??
Old 01-13-2018, 08:01 PM
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Blowing up the thread today lol..but I was reviewing some of the things I have done to see if I had done something wrong, and I might have. I changed the plugs back when I first got it and I was looking at the package of one that was left over (I bought two packs of 4) and they are Bosch iridium and it said the gap is .044. I know it's supposed to be .035. I'm going to get some champion coppers and see if that will change things.
Old 01-14-2018, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Abaka
Blowing up the thread today lol..but I was reviewing some of the things I have done to see if I had done something wrong, and I might have. I changed the plugs back when I first got it and I was looking at the package of one that was left over (I bought two packs of 4) and they are Bosch iridium and it said the gap is .044. I know it's supposed to be .035. I'm going to get some champion coppers and see if that will change things.
NGK ZFR5Ns gapped at .035".
Old 01-14-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Abaka
Blowing up the thread today lol..but I was reviewing some of the things I have done to see if I had done something wrong, and I might have. I changed the plugs back when I first got it and I was looking at the package of one that was left over (I bought two packs of 4) and they are Bosch iridium and it said the gap is .044. I know it's supposed to be .035. I'm going to get some champion coppers and see if that will change things.
Copper plugs all i use, no reason for fancy platinum etc plugs on our engines, remember they was designed in 1960's.
Maybe if you upgraded the coil, but that alone would be a pain on a renix.
Old 01-17-2018, 09:53 PM
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Well I had a little break through today!! (Hope so anyway) I ran a new setup for the ccv tube (firewall side) and when I was checking ports and tubes (again) I fired it up with one of the ports unplugged and didn't have an idle drop! It ran for about ten minutes at an acceptable idle. Only after I shut it off I realized that I left a port on the manifold unplugged. So I think for now anyway, I'm going to tap into the air intake above the throttle body and run some filtered air to said port on the manifold and see what it does. More will be revealed but for now I'm feeling pretty good about this
Old 01-17-2018, 10:01 PM
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Back out the idle air screw instead.
Old 01-18-2018, 05:57 PM
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How is your EGR valve? Is it working correctly, closing off all the way?
Would make a lot of sense if its seeping past and screwing up the idle mixture...
Been reading over the Renix FI manual.
Not much help here except to say ecm uses a preset rpm ....
Other thought i had was a wide going bad between the CPS and the ECM with wrong impedence.
Old 01-18-2018, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Caish
How is your EGR valve? Is it working correctly, closing off all the way?
Would make a lot of sense if its seeping past and screwing up the idle mixture...
Been reading over the Renix FI manual.
Not much help here except to say ecm uses a preset rpm ....
Other thought i had was a wide going bad between the CPS and the ECM with wrong impedence.
The egr has been capped sense I got it but I am going to make me a little block off plate to completely rule it out. But I was looking at the vacuum diagram and the port that I left off yesterday runs to the air box on a stock setup. (Right under where the fuel pressure regulator line goes in the intake second one down). Why would the iac not adjust when that port is open?? But others it does??
Old 01-18-2018, 08:55 PM
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I have a cold air intake And i thought I should get the intake ports and vac lines as close to stock as I can minus the egr and air box



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