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Yes Another renix low idle problem

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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 04:39 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
The eGR can leak internally and spraying it will have no effect.
Ok cool!! That gives me some well needed optimism! Could I pull the egr and plug up the base with some jb weld?? Or Is that to primitive??
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 04:51 PM
  #62  
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I would be a lot more concerned about the engine if it acted bad under any load but I can take it down my road and back to the driveway and no sputter or hesitation seems fine when I'm driving it's just the idle that is not right
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Old Dec 22, 2017 | 10:20 PM
  #63  
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We may have to resort to something else. A last ditch effort.

I rarely recommend this.

On the driver's side of the throttle body is a flat plug covering an adjustable air bleed.
Remove it by hitting one side of it with a small punch. See the Torx headed screw underneath?
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Old Dec 23, 2017 | 12:13 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
We may have to resort to something else. A last ditch effort.

I rarely recommend this.

On the driver's side of the throttle body is a flat plug covering an adjustable air bleed.
Remove it by hitting one side of it with a small punch. See the Torx headed screw underneath?
Yes I see it
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Old Dec 23, 2017 | 06:22 AM
  #65  
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You see it? Was the plug already removed?

back it out a half turn.
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 02:34 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You see it? Was the plug already removed?

back it out a half turn.
Ended up getting a different tbody from the JY (well worth $25) And of coarse the tps screws where different!! Finally found the ones I needed (went with a 8/32 x 1" with a hex socket cap) the other was a 10/32 that's my luck lol. Gunna charge the battery and slap that tbody back in and see what happens! I also snapped my accelerator cable in the process. Guess the man upstairs wanted that replaced. But I will have an update tomorrow
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 05:28 PM
  #67  
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having owned renix for 6 + years.
First thing to check for all issues is the ground by the dipstick.
double so with idle issues.
pull the wires off clean and reinstall.
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Old Jan 1, 2018 | 05:55 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Abaka
Ended up getting a different tbody from the JY (well worth $25) And of coarse the tps screws where different!! Finally found the ones I needed (went with a 8/32 x 1" with a hex socket cap) the other was a 10/32 that's my luck lol. Gunna charge the battery and slap that tbody back in and see what happens! I also snapped my accelerator cable in the process. Guess the man upstairs wanted that replaced. But I will have an update tomorrow
Man, I wish others were all as diligent as you are!!!
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 02:15 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Caish
having owned renix for 6 + years.
First thing to check for all issues is the ground by the dipstick.
double so with idle issues.
pull the wires off clean and reinstall.
Thanks for the advise, most appreciated, I've spent a lot of time with said dipstick!! Resistance checks out for the tps ground test to dipstick and from dipstick to neg terminal
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 02:20 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Abaka
Thanks for the advise, most appreciated, I've spent a lot of time with said dipstick!! Resistance checks out for the tps ground test to dipstick and from dipstick to neg terminal
Sounds silly but going to toss it out here.
My tab broke off the distributor,
allowed the distributor to turn some,
yep the timing is ecm controlled but it is how
the ECM khows it on the first 3 or second 3 cylinders.
Mine started idling funky when this happened and the
base timing got to far off.
if the ECM is chasing timing, it will advance and retard it
looking for correct tune and make the idle go up and down.
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 02:36 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Caish
Sounds silly but going to toss it out here.
My tab broke off the distributor,
allowed the distributor to turn some,
yep the timing is ecm controlled but it is how
the ECM khows it on the first 3 or second 3 cylinders.
Mine started idling funky when this happened and the
base timing got to far off.
if the ECM is chasing timing, it will advance and retard it
looking for correct tune and make the idle go up and down.
Makes sense to me. If cruisers suggestion doesn't work out for me that is exactly where my next focus will be. Haven't touched it besides a new cap and rotor on it. Didn't see anything that was screaming "I have a problem" but then again I wasn't looking for anything either. But definitely a helpful suggestion
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 07:48 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Abaka
Makes sense to me. If cruisers suggestion doesn't work out for me that is exactly where my next focus will be. Haven't touched it besides a new cap and rotor on it. Didn't see anything that was screaming "I have a problem" but then again I wasn't looking for anything either. But definitely a helpful suggestion
Renix distributor indexing.

http://cruiser54.com/?p=68
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 07:58 PM
  #73  
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well on to the distributor. The idle was a lot rougher. It would idle at 500ish for a few seconds and then bog back down to 300ish along with a hesitation every once and a while. Is there a good way to check the functionality of the distributor before I go ahead with indexing? I definitely want to make sure it is good before I do anything else to it.
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Old Jan 3, 2018 | 08:42 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Abaka
well on to the distributor. The idle was a lot rougher. It would idle at 500ish for a few seconds and then bog back down to 300ish along with a hesitation every once and a while. Is there a good way to check the functionality of the distributor before I go ahead with indexing? I definitely want to make sure it is good before I do anything else to it.
Just do the indexing.
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Old Jan 4, 2018 | 11:20 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Just do the indexing.
Any chance you have a pic of the tap on the dist post cut?? No biggy if not but I always like to have something to reference if possible
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