On the NP231 only the part time light will come on. I'm not sure if there's actually a bulb in the full time position lol.

Switch (or its wire) on the transfer case itself is usually the culprit and easy to check and replace: yank the wire off the switch and short the pins with a paperclip or something. If no light, dead bulb. If light, dead switch.

 

Ok. Will check when I get home from work. Thanks!

 

No problem. Forgot to mention one thing, though: the switch is on the front of the case, between the part that bolts to the transmission and front drive shaft. The unit on the back drives the speedometer

 

Ok. Got it.

 

When coasting it wasn't as prominent as when accelerating but still there. I gave the drive shaft a firm push and no play there. But I'll get under there and find something I bet. It sounded at first like it was on the passenger side but then I thought that maybe it was coming from right under me. It's getting an alignment right now do I hope they take a look at it while they are down there.

 

Used this to help trace my vibes. I have play in my front drive shaft. I can rotate it in my hand and if I push up and down I can hear some rattling. It is not nearly as bad in the video but still, I can hear it. I am going to take it into a local shop by my house real quick and have them check it out.

 

Back story- Installed a rough country 4.5" full pack lift about a year and a half ago no issues until now.

The passenger side sags about 1" lower than the driverside for some reason, normal ware and tear from the drive tire was my initial guess but there's a catch. Wheel straight or turned left -1 wheel turned right completely level... I'm at a loss here any suggestions

 

Well my local shop wanted $117 to replace the u-joints on the front d shaft. So I think I may want to diy. As a question to help me diagnose what is wrong, should I be able to spin my front ds while in park? I can go maybe a 3/8th turn and at the end of the turn there is a clink towards the differential. I'm looking on google and on here to try and help me figure it out.

 

$117 is a damn good price to replace 3 ujoints. Are they doing the centering ball also?

what position is the transfer case in?

 

I put my belt back on this morning and the noise is gone, just like the first time I replaced it. After a couple of days it started back up again. So we'll see in a few days.

 

Newb here, my turn signals do NOT work when i bought this 1993.5 xj, i lurked and searched read every thread i could and still no luck...i replaced hazard ANd flasher relays and last night took apart the column and relaced the switch. The hazards work fine before and after all parts replaced. The bulbs all work but no signals? Any help or advice is appriciated!! I suck with electrical! Thanks! Oh and i say 1993.5 because it is titled a 1994 but it still has r12 freon and the 1994 turn signal switch is WAY different then the 1993 that fits, i have yet to find the manufacturing date?

 

I just replaced the one month old idle air control module on my 99 xj after she kept flooding out but now she idles at 1700 and when you give it gas it wont throttle down. I replace the tps too to no avail and I have an issue with the fuel gauge not reading unless there is a new computer in it and even then it goes out after a month oh and it has a whole fuel pump assembly map sensor o2 sensors fresh rebuild you name it to please help its my daily driver and it's pretty hard to keep under control

 

You're aware that you do have to retighten new belts as they stretch, right?

 

Sure, but the noise it makes doesn't sound like a belt issue.

 

To be honest I am not sure I'll have to ask. But I don't feel like dropping 117 bones right now. I kind of want to do it myself. what is the centering ball? And what do you mean by the position of the tc? It is on 2wd right meow.