I own a 87 jeep cherokee 4wd with the inline 6 automatic, i have been looking for a cold air intake for it but cant find one anywhere the lowest year i can find is 91', so my question is would the cold air intake from a 91 fit in my 87. Or is there actually a cold air intake for my 87 that i have just not found yet?

 

Yeah I have the y pipe, I'm going to run a bunch of seacoast through the engine and hopefully I'll be able to verify where the Crack is.

 

I have a 2000 Jeep XJ with a 4.0. I wanted to take a look at my throttle body, and see how dirty it was. When I took it off I was sure to remove everything gently, look out for vacuum lines (including the one under the MAP sensor), and was sure to put everything on exactly how it came off. When I put it back on (after cleaning) my idle was higher in park (1100 rpms), and rough in both drive and park (bounces from 1100-800)! After buying a new IAC sensor (which I later returned because it didn't change anything), double and triple checking all of my connections and bolts, and buying a new TB gasket it still idles high and rough!! I sprayed some throttle body cleaner around my tb to see if I had a vacuum leak, and my engine didn't surge at all. If anyone could please give me some suggestions on how to get my jeep idling smooth and lower please let me know.

 

So, after sitting quietly for two years now over a brake line failure that I felt I was unable to repair...

I have all new hard lines for the rear and front-to-rear, new hardware. Lots of stuff. New battery, new battery cables. Went to try and start her. I shot some fogging oil down in the cylinders and into the valve cover. Also poured some oil into the valve cover. Pulled the fuel pump relay, turned her over, and some residual fuel must have caught and gave her a good 400 rpm fart. Turned her over some more, re-plugged the relay, and went to fire her up.

She is struggling to start. I have to pump the pedal a bit. Once she fires, she might stumble a bit at first, but then settles into a nice and normal 700 - 800 RPM idle. I can give her some skinny pedal and she moves through the RPM's smoothly (up to 2k is all I tested). Have not attempted to drive her. FYI, this is my 91.

So, I am assuming the hard starting is the ****e gas that is two years old (half a tanks worth) despite adding MMO to the tank before she sat. When she went dormant, she had no issues save a RMS leak. I need to change all the fluids obviously, but she has new plugs, wires, cap, but not rotor because Amazon shipped the wrong one. One bit of concern is my oil pressure gauge is reading zero. Even during engine acceleration. It never moved above 0-1 psi, no bounce, nothing. Partially I think this is a dead sensor. I have no noticeable rod knocking, no crazy lifter tick, only had the usual cold engine piston slap. I did have an exhaust leak somewhere, and I think some RMS oil was cooking on the downpipe and making some stanky smoke near the back of the engine.

What do yall think? I am going to verify oil pressure with my mechanical gauge. I did not try to drive her and shut her down for fear of possibly running with no PSI. Can a two year old XJ crawl back from the brink? I'll try and upload a video later.

Thanks for ya'lls help!

 

Update:
I pulled the fuel pump assembly today and found that the Bosch pump was completely missing the filter/strainer/sock/whatever. I'm definitely replacing it for peace of mind

 

Hi:
Outside of the gas tank there is a fuel line connection. How do you disconnect it without damaging the connector or the line? Thank you.

 

Are you referring to the fuel line that runs up to the engine? This is terminated at the fuel pump on top of the tank. You need a fuel line quick disconnect tool, which slides in from the pump side and pushes the plastic tabs apart.



(There are some variations that are hinged levers)

The hoses from the filler door are held on with normal hose clamps. The rubber lines may break during removal, however, they can be replaced fairly easily.

 

If you don't have them autozone(or similar parts store) should stock them. I had to quick go buy them there one night. There are plastic versions and metal versions. I bought both. They should cover pretty much every quick disconnect fitting size for around $20.

 

Sorry, I think my question may have been misunderstood. The Jeep is running really rich, yes... every sensor under the hood has been replaced (including the MAP) over the past year or so... but that's not causing a driveability problem.

I was moreso asking about HEAT from the crack in the manifold effecting things. After my little experiment yesterday evening showed me, I believe this is the case. I started the Jeep with the hood shut and let it idle for right at about 10 minutes, waited until I started hearing it misfiring, then backfiring, and finally stuttering and struggling to idle, then went over and felt around on the hood. Hottest part of the hood was right above the area of the throttle body... you could just about cook an egg on it.

Opened the hood to see what the temps were like on the AIC, TPS, and MAP - couldn't bare to touch 'em without a glove. Felt about like touching the surface of a wood burning stove.

I bought a new FelPro gasket and have new manifold hardware and flange studs coming from Rock Auto.... I'm going to try and fix the crack in the manifold that came out of the '96 (isn't cracked as bad) and then install it... we'll see if it gets any better. The manifold I have in it is literally cracked all the way around the primary for 1,2, & 3, so almost anything is better at this point.

 

What's the chance of having a spun cam bearing after having sat for two years straight? Someone at work has me paranoid.

 

It would only have a bad cam bearing now if it was parked with one 2 years ago.....

 

Where do people come up with this stuff? Not you Jeep_Man, but whoever told you that.... they have thoughts.... they should probably stop thinking. Or at least put down the bong for a week before thinking.

 

It came out of my talking with them about starting my Jeep after having sat for two years. She went to sleep with no issues. Upon starting, she was grumpy. Hard to start but idled well and went to 2k rpm nicely. Some light lifter tick and cold piston slap and an exhaust leak, but she sounded alright. No knock, etc.

My oil pressure gauge is showing zero regardless of rpm. But it is a cheap Autozone unit. I was going to test it with my mechanical gauge tomorrow after work. That's when he mentioned the cam bearing, which of course paranoid the hell out of me because my old lady has a lot of sentimental value and is our SHTF weather rig. I'm planning to siphon the old fuel, fresh oil and filter, test the pressure with a gauge and hopefully verify a bad sending unit.

 

Yeah, no, there's no reason that a sealed (aka non-serviceable) bearing (aka pretty much ALL modern-day bearings) should have any problems after sitting, unless is has been "sitting" in a puddle.

 

I have this weird noise that I am not sure of. I checked my Flexplate and those bolts were fine. So now I think it might be something inside the actual engine. But I'd like other thoughts before I go ripping **** out and replacing stuff possibly needlessly.

Here's the video and Sorry for Vertical. I recorded horizontal but yea. Anyway I thought it might be the Rocker Arms but those look fine to me. None were moving radically or anything from what I could see. So if you guys have an ideas please let me know. A PM response might be best or just post in here. Thanks in advance!