Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 3
From: Southern Maryland
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,930
Likes: 3
From: 802
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 651
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Lakewood, CO
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
You can have a bad enough vacuum leak to cause something like this. However I would remove your throttle body and clean your IAC and TPS and everything else in there. Use MAF cleaner (safe for sensors and plastic), you can find it in any auto store .
Found online for the IAC cleaning.
"1. Remove the Throttle body from the intake manifold.
2. Remove the IAC with a TORX 15 driver (2 bolts)
3. Gently wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body
4. Clean the IAC with Throttle Body Cleaner (not carburetor cleaner). Use cleaner, a rag, and a toothbrush. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle as it is fragile and can be damaged easily
5. Also clean where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same throttle body cleaner
6. While you have the Throttle Body off, give it a good cleaning also.
7. Reinstall IAC, the Throttle body, and check idle quality."
Found online for testing the TPS
"TPS TESTING
You may have one or more of these Physical Symptoms:
1) The engine loses power and is stalling.
2) The engine will idle, but may die as soon as you press the gas pedal. When driving, it seems as if all power is gone.
3) Sometimes it feels as if the transmission is failed or isn't shifting properly, if at all. If you quickly jump on the gas you might be able to get the transmission to shift, but it won’t shift properly by itself. Shifting manually, the transmission goes through all the gears.
NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics. The TPS function should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected.
TPS TEST
You should have 5 volts going into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It is best to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. At idle, TPS output voltage should be greater than .26 volts but less than .95 volts. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT. The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage.
Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.
The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture, and vibration, leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following:
-Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
- High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
-Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
-Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
- Engine Misfire: A faulty TPS can report values outside the acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessive misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage."
You might want to look into the stator in the distributor as well.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...lse_Stator.htm
Here's a coupon.. You could buy something cheap like cable ties (that's about all they're good for) and get a multimeter free.
http://www.harborfreight.com/household/cable-ties/8-inch-black-cable-ties-pack-of-100-34635.html
Found online for the IAC cleaning.
"1. Remove the Throttle body from the intake manifold.
2. Remove the IAC with a TORX 15 driver (2 bolts)
3. Gently wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body
4. Clean the IAC with Throttle Body Cleaner (not carburetor cleaner). Use cleaner, a rag, and a toothbrush. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle as it is fragile and can be damaged easily
5. Also clean where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same throttle body cleaner
6. While you have the Throttle Body off, give it a good cleaning also.
7. Reinstall IAC, the Throttle body, and check idle quality."
Found online for testing the TPS
"TPS TESTING
You may have one or more of these Physical Symptoms:
1) The engine loses power and is stalling.
2) The engine will idle, but may die as soon as you press the gas pedal. When driving, it seems as if all power is gone.
3) Sometimes it feels as if the transmission is failed or isn't shifting properly, if at all. If you quickly jump on the gas you might be able to get the transmission to shift, but it won’t shift properly by itself. Shifting manually, the transmission goes through all the gears.
NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics. The TPS function should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected.
TPS TEST
You should have 5 volts going into the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It is best to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. At idle, TPS output voltage should be greater than .26 volts but less than .95 volts. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT. The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage.
Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.
The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture, and vibration, leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following:
-Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
- High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
-Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
-Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
- Engine Misfire: A faulty TPS can report values outside the acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessive misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage."
You might want to look into the stator in the distributor as well.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...lse_Stator.htm
Here's a coupon.. You could buy something cheap like cable ties (that's about all they're good for) and get a multimeter free.
http://www.harborfreight.com/household/cable-ties/8-inch-black-cable-ties-pack-of-100-34635.html
great info on TPS .. thanks
I think my problem lies within here .. I put in a BWD sensor 20k miles ago, .. swapping it with a napa / echlin.. original TPS, would not downshift climbing mtns .. put in the BWD .. worked good for 2 years
now having issues as the problems described above .. stalling on throttle (random .. and not too often) .. but, have a bogged / low idle feeling motor .... cruising flat on highway, when it should downshift, it does not .. unless I floor the gas pedal
sometimes ... at said bogged cruisin highway (behind slow cars especially) .. mid-gear so to say .. get a "buck" from transmission
idle at stopped stalls .. it stalled 3-4 times .. throttle from a stoplight
and the shop diagnose today .. Im getting random misfire, but not much .. no codes ever pop up either .. by me or them today
Last edited by dogkatcher; Nov 23, 2015 at 09:45 PM.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Here's how to test/adjust a TPS:
RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT
Before attempting to adjust your TPS, there are two things that need to be done.
1) Be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
2) With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, set on the lowest scale, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.
TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR ENGINE ISSUES
Both RENIX manual and automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a flat three-wire connector to the TPS which provides data input to the ECU. The three wires in the connector are clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you
have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over.
Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage.
TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES
RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.
However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. First off, DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground by back-probing the connector. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.
For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. The square 4 wire connector is just not used.
Revised 12-15-2013
RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT
Before attempting to adjust your TPS, there are two things that need to be done.
1) Be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
2) With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, set on the lowest scale, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.
TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR ENGINE ISSUES
Both RENIX manual and automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a flat three-wire connector to the TPS which provides data input to the ECU. The three wires in the connector are clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Loosen both T-20 Torx screws attaching the TPS to the throttle body and rotate the TPS until you
have achieved your desired output voltage. Tighten the screws carefully while watching to see that your output voltage remains where it is supposed to be. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage, replace the TPS and start over.
Sometimes, after adjusting your TPS the way outlined above, you may experience a high idle upon starting. If that happens, shut the engine off and reconnect your probes to B and C. Start the engine and while watching your meter, turn the TPS clockwise until the idle drops to normal and then rotate it back counterclockwise to your desired output voltage.
TPS ADJUSTMENT FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES
RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs and MJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as outlined above—FOR ALL ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.
However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector, clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. THIS SQUARE FOUR WIRE CONNECTOR IS USED FOR TRANSMISSION/SHIFTING RELATED ISSUES ONLY. First off, DO NOT UNPLUG THE CONNECTORS !! Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground by back-probing the connector. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.
For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced. The square 4 wire connector is just not used.
Revised 12-15-2013
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Am I the only one with a reliable oil pressure gauge here? Sheesh... got no body, got no frame, but my oil pressure gauge is excellent. Makes me wonder whats wrong with your Jeeps lol
Technically they have a relay in their circuit, but it is not used for powering them. Power is delivered directly from the switch to the lamps.
This relay is actually before the switch in the circuit. It kills power when the high beams are on.
At least, this is true in 1999, and probably all '97+.
This relay is actually before the switch in the circuit. It kills power when the high beams are on.
At least, this is true in 1999, and probably all '97+.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 651
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Next time I drive mine I'll see if I can use the high beams and fogs on my 96. Yes = no relay / no = not really. got it.
*edit : relates in both setups
*edit : relates in both setups
Last edited by crabmushrooms5; Nov 23, 2015 at 11:34 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I think "no fogs while highbeams are engaged" has been a DOT regulation for a pretty long time. I just can't guarantee that that diagram is applicable to a 1996 lol
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 376
Likes: 5
From: Idaho
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Liter
On my '91 high beams on = no fog lights. I'm pretty sure all Cherokees came like that from the factory. I believe a tab on the relay can be bent back so the fog lights will stay on but I can't say for sure.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 651
Likes: 0
From: Fayetteville, NC
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So in order to "focus" the electrical load to the fogs I would install a relay in L39?
*Or does me asking that not even make sense?
*Or does me asking that not even make sense?
Last edited by crabmushrooms5; Nov 23, 2015 at 11:51 PM.