salad

Hi, welcome to CherokeeForum.

The Jeep Cherokee XJ was produced over a period of 18 years with 7 different fuel systems and 6 different engines.

Lots of people have had lots of experiences with similar problems. Most of their solutions probably don't apply to your particular model.

That's odd that you believe that. Check out OEM Tech, plenty of people with "less than 10,000 posts" who don't show up with a bunch of attitude are having no problem learning and working on their vehicles. Do you think people start with 15k posts?

Of course they have. They already knew what the problem was and got lucky. We don't know what's wrong with your Jeep. We are not in the habit of suggesting random things, unlike the "experts" on Facebook, because shotgunning random fixes is expensive and frustrating.


But, if you want to check for the automatic choke sticking, MAP hose broken, B2S2 oxygen sensor unplugged, and diesel fuel lines having air in them all at the same time, well have at it! Because that's the kind of random unrelated **** you can expect without having the common decency to tell us WHAT you want help with when you ask a bunch of volunteers for help. We are here to help, but we are not psychic.

Rapscallion

Ok, let's try this:

My Jeep:
1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L Auto 4x4
151,000 miles

My Issues:
• CEL - Can't get free reading because of CA laws - Trying to avoid extra cost if possible
• Jeep starts right up, no hesitation, no drop in RPM from the start.
• After letting off the gas (especially in small areas like parking lots), the Jeep will drop RPM to ~300 or die but will start right back up with no problem
• Shifting is slow/hanging between all gears. For instance: Jeep will generally shift into 3rd at about 2500-2700 rpm (normal driving), but now it will just hang at that range or slightly higher unless I get up to ~50mph+
• From dead stop, there is some hesitation when accelerating.


My Plan of Attack:
• When time permits, I will remove throttle body, IAC and TPS to clean

What I'm Hoping For from members here:
• Someone with prior experience with this exact issue that can lend some experience into my troubleshooting

I have found other threads in my searching where this exact issue has been discussed, however, no one has followed up after suggestions were offered, therefore, I am still at Stage 1 (see: Plan of Attack).

Thanks guys. I'm not trying to instigate a bunch of meaningless internet flaming but I don't understand some of the quick-to-judge comments. I'm over it.

Peace.

mcd58

how does everyone mount things on the passenger side of the middle console i want to put one of these. i want to put one of these http://www.leatherman.com/831647.html and a double a mag lite. thanks for any help

mjcxking

yes the ball joint press worked! I tried the others but no luck

Velcro

I got mine out with a c clamp and a big socket.

NewKindOfClown

A lot of people favor paracord for those types of things, and they get creative.
You could make/purchase a lanyard with a breakaway clip for it and run a screw into the trans tunnel to hold it.
Magnets might offer a handy solution

salad

Excellent. Yes, dead-end threads are very frustrating.

Your symptoms are very close to a busted Throttle Position Sensor on that model year. Have you been taking it swimming? (Though I do see your location is Coachella Valley lol)

The TPS is used by the engine to set fuel mix, the transmission shift points, and also to determine how it needs to set the Idle Air Controller. As you can imagine, if the IAC isn't open far enough to let enough air in during idle (ehhh? geddit) then the thing can easily die or run at 300 RPM.

Check out tjwalker's handy writeup on testing the TPS: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/my-...4/#post1452495

DFlintstone

I just bought both sizes, I can return the wrong pair. As far as bleeding south of the prop valve....thinking, start a siphon to the bleeder, then loosen the line at the proportioning valve to let air out. Once the line and slave is primed, a good hard, press on the petal might re-set the valve.

Rapscallion

This is perfect. Thank you for this. Going to test the TPS now.

ThatDude114

It came with the smaller cylinder because of the ABS. Keep the bigger ones because you'll wanna put those in when you swap to a standard braking system. You might be able to just use the bigger ones but I'm not 100% sure on that one.

DFlintstone

Much thanks for your input Dude. btw we have one here on my hill, ""Due to his semblance to ;The dude" in the movy.

It's my thought that whatever ratio is "normal', I'll stay with that. Gotta say, in this 'window', it looks like the yanks and the Brit's are at odds of which front/back ratio is best. Heck, you got me thinking....i'might put the 13/16 in, just because their, 'average stats' might not apply so directly to us. ( bumping along my roads, solid 4 wheel breaking would normally be a +)

ThatDude114

Where'd you read about the import models having the bigger cylinder? Its weird because all the places I've looked list 3/4 for Cherokees equipped with ABS and 13/16 for non-ABS Cherokees.





See the Wagner vs. EIS.

OldTires

I have 1996 Cherokee and I am changing the muffler, cat, and tail pipe. How hard is it to go up a bit more and change the front pipe that connects to the exhaust manifold?

Those flange bolts look like they will snap. If they do, how do I replace them without taking out the manifold? Thanks.

salad

Yes, they'll either snap or just not move. You're in luck though, they're not attached to the manifold. Either you snap them or you have to cut them and they basically fall out of the manifold side.

Replacing the downpipe is always a good idea to get rid of that stupid crush at the front of it. Consider adding a flex section to reduce stress on the manifold (leverage from the stock rigid exhaust is why they crack)

OldTires

Thank you, Salad.

As for adding the flex section, I was looking online and most are welded on to the front pipe. I don't have a welder, so are there options for clamped on sections of flex pipe?