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My jeep doesnt move after 45mph...throttle position sensor? HELP

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Old 01-11-2012, 07:40 AM
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Default My jeep doesnt move after 45mph...throttle position sensor? HELP

So I have a 1996 jeep XJ 6 cyl, 4.0, this problem has been happening for the past couple days and idk what it is...when I'm in drive, and get up to 45mph my jeep doesn't go anymore, it accelerates and the rpms go up past 3,000 but it doesn't actually move, I'm just coasting, but if I put it in 2 then I can drive past 45mph but my rpms goes past 3,000...so I basically can't drive on the hwy do you have any ideas?

It happens at like 35mph-45mph in drive, but If I turn my jeep on, put it in 2 it will never happen.

Can anyone help me or tell me what this is, its extremely frustrating, and I need to get this problem solved as quickly as possible...
Old 01-11-2012, 07:43 AM
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You said in "2" it doesn't happen.

Will it go above 40-45 MPH in "2" ?
Old 01-11-2012, 08:00 AM
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Yeah when I'm in 2 I can go past 45mph, but I don't want to push it to much because my rpms go past 3500k
Old 01-11-2012, 08:08 AM
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Don't guess. Test. And if the TPS checks out, I'd verify that you have 49 psi of fuel pressure at the rail, plus or minus 5 psi. Good luck!
-------------------------------------------

The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
Old 01-11-2012, 08:33 AM
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How do you check the tps? And if it had anything to do with my fuel pump/pressure then why would my car run fine perfectly in "2". I'm just trying to narrow down my options
Old 01-11-2012, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by tjwalker
Don't guess. Test. And if the TPS checks out, I'd verify that you have 49 psi of fuel pressure at the rail, plus or minus 5 psi. Good luck!
-------------------------------------------

The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
tjwalker just told you exactly how to test it^^^ Also if it is not the TPS it is possible that you have a bad shift solenoid. However I would put my money on a bad TPS. Follow the procedure tjwalker provided and you should be on your way to a happy jeep.
Old 01-11-2012, 03:52 PM
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Would my jeep being straight piped to the muffler have anything to do with this?
Old 01-11-2012, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by W00GYB00GY
Would my jeep being straight piped to the muffler have anything to do with this?
No.

Tested your TPS yet?
Old 01-11-2012, 06:10 PM
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I would check trans fluid level. If its low the trans can not build enough pressure to shif to the next gear. It sounds like the trans is slipping.
Old 01-11-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by reddonkey
I would check trans fluid level. If its low the trans can not build enough pressure to shif to the next gear. It sounds like the trans is slipping.
I checked and its good.
Old 01-11-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tjwalker
No.

Tested your TPS yet?
No...I don't have a Analog meter, or any meter for that matter. I might just say screw it and buy a new tps...
Old 01-11-2012, 07:32 PM
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I'm willing to bet its got absolutely nothing to do with the tps. Valve body, converter, trans filter, loose bands...good luck man.
Old 01-11-2012, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by hankthetank
I'm willing to bet its got absolutely nothing to do with the tps. Valve body, converter, trans filter, loose bands...good luck man.
What do you recommend I do?
Old 01-11-2012, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by W00GYB00GY

What do you recommend I do?
First Google your symptoms... Like ' aw4 slipping in second...' There's a **** load of info on that...there's a lot you'll be looking at...solenoids, resistance, tcm,blah blah blah. You may be in a rush, but its always best to become your own expert. I just googled 'aw4 test', and a butt load of stuff came up...hope you have a meter! Good luck dude!
Old 01-12-2012, 01:00 AM
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My brother in law had a impala that was doing the same thing. Replaced the maf and ran great after that. Don't ask me why


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