lost some skin doing that

 

the mental picture hahahahaha

 

I only warn cause ive done it.... felt like a tard....lol

 

i did the same thing once at work in a crappy old cavalier (i valet cars).
it had been a long night and the shifter just popped right off as i went to shift and punched myself right in the face.

 

My working theory on stuff like this is to seal the crap out of the very top and leading edges of whatever (like body armor), and paint the holes (rivets whatever ...including silicon as necessary, and greasing the crap out of nuts and bolts that may have to be taken off again some day ...just make sure bare metal is thoroughly coated with something moderately lasting), and leave the bottom open to drain.

Water is going to go where water goes. The trick is making sure the water don't stay. If it don't stay, it can't do as much damage ...so clean off anything that makes any surface not dry quickly (mud, I'm talking to you). A pressure washer can be one of your car's best friends lol.

 

What's the average cost of an exhaust shop installing a cat, muffler and tailpipe?

 

I just paid 80 bucks to have a muffler welded on and a tail pipe made and installed.

They left the converter alone and I supplied the muffler.

 

Oh OK so I can just supply the muffler, tailpipe, and cat and have them make a downpipe. So maybe expect under $100?

 

I reused the stock downpipe and converter. They just welded the muffler to the stock pipe behind the converter and bent up a tail pipe and welded it in.

Prices are going to vary a lot.

I had the same shop the previous year charge me $110 to do the exact same thing on a different Jeep. lol

But, keep in mind, this shop is some shady meth head guys that do stuff fairly cheap. A legit muffler shop may or may not be more expensive.

Best thing to do is go ask them.

 

When I went to put a mech fan back on my 91 one of the studs pulled out.

Is there a reason I'd have to use a stud? I have 3 still on there so aligning it in there isn't a problem really.

 

As long as there's not interference I don't why you couldn't use a nut and bolt.

 

I was thinking of just using a bolt. Get one that will thread into where the stud threads into.

Now I'm thinking (without looking at it) I might not be able to fit the bolt in there because the fan blades will be in the way.

You think parts stores would have those studs?

 

Not sure. Maybe.

 

Well, I searched. No "mechanical fan pulley mount studs" or any variation of that.

They have tons of studs thoughs. Double ended ones, like needed.

Anyone know the specs on those?

 

According to he tirerack website, 33x12.50 km2s are only a couple pounds lighter then the 35x12.50s. So would that mean it would be just as strenuous on the tranny to have the 33x12.50 as the 35s? With stock gearing that is.