What all would I need, if I wanted to upgrade to a 99+ intake on my 96?

 

Wasn't that myth busted on the dyno?

As far as I know the intake, power steering pump maybe, brackets on that side, and the pulley.

 

'99-Up Horseshoe Intake
Myth: According to that great wealth of information that is never wrong, the Internet says you'll get a 5-30hp gain thanks to the '99-up 4.0L's swooped, equal length runners and larger plenum volume.
Our Thoughts: While a free-flow intake manifold can deliver more power, it's only going to allow as much air to flow as the cylinder head and camshaft will call for. Upping the intake runner volume too much will cause the intake charge to lose velocity, killing low- and mid-speed power and torque. On a '98-earlier engine running a stock camshaft and unported cylinder head, it's wasted effort.
Claimed Gains: 5-30hp
Actual Gains: 5hp loss on Trasborg's '98 XJ (Project Mileage Master)

Read more: http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...#ixzz2N0Sxdk7H

I guess if I were to drop in a comp cam and 62mm TB, I might see some good gains.

 

yes i'm lifting it this week only 3" and thank ya'll for the info i didn't think it would do anything to the mileage but i just had to ask thanks again ya'll

 

I will need to replace manifold; I keep coming around to the "Dorman" for my 95
6 cylinder; Any thoughts or experience with this brand ? I am looking at OE type model with flex joints/ "limited Lifetime Guarantee"...
Is there a "performance" manifold that may have some hp addition within a reasonable budget.

When ("when") I get the fuel injectors off any "must do" maitanance that would make sense during the manifold repair ?

Thanks
CB

 

Running happily with the Dorman unit, I didn't know that there were headers back then. I think some of them are even cheaper. Someone with a clue will likely chime in

 

I see a lot of people run Banks power header.

 

Temperature, oil pressure and battery charge gauges are "flat"; I have just replaced ignition switch to remedy elec problems etc....thought maybe gauges would respond but no luck. Seems like it may be a single issue rather than all three bad at once. Any experience or trouble shooting thoughts. Dash and trim is loose, I ready to pull instruments, but don't know if that will help.

Thanks,

CB

 

Check cluster ground.

Good luck. I'm heading to work. Somebody help this guy out

 

Instrument cluster ground sounds like it's gotten loose or kinked. Trace and check the black wire(s) coming from the IC's plug for nicks or broken areas. Also verify the ground stud under the dash hasn't worked loose over the years. That ground stud can be found on the metal frame work under the headlamp pull switch. You'll have to pull the lower dash/knee pad to see it.

I'll borrow this and quote it from Cruiser54, who is highly knowledgeable on the electrical of our Jeeps. Read below.

----------------------------------------------------------------
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cr...2/#post2114737

Improving the Instrument Panel Ground
The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release ****. The screw will have either a ¼" or 5/16" head on it.
This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.
The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.
Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10" long. On one end, crimp on a ¼" round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8" round wire terminal.
Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.
Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release ****. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.
**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12" long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**
　
Revised 11-29-2011

 

anybody run this bumper? without the brush guard?
http://custom4x4fabrication.com/97frontbumper3.jpg

its the XJ Winch Bumper on http://custom4x4fabrication.com/front_xj.html

 

Edited to keep people from complaining......

 

alrighty then.

 

; )

 

The 35 under Manuel's XJ as well as XJs with manual transmissions, are the same 35s found under automatics. Just use your old DS and you'll be fine. I knew you'd fine one without a 7 hour round trip.