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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #23206  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Without reading back... I assume you're removing the coolant temp sensor in the back of the head to burp the system? Park on a hill with the front bumper pointing down when you do it.
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #23207  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Sideways99
did ya squeez the hoses? i know odd ??? but if you pump the upper hose like a siphon ball it'll push out the bubbles. 94s have a closed system correct?
No, 94s are open.
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:38 PM
  #23208  
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Without reading back... I assume you're removing the coolant temp sensor in the back of the head to burp the system? Park on a hill with the front bumper pointing down when you do it.
Every other time i have flushed/changed my coolant I haven't had to do this, why now? And from what I have read you "shouldn't" have to burp an open system, I always have though just by squeezing the upper rad. hose. And why does the pressure in the radiator build so fast, every other time I have started it while filling the levels start to drop as the engine gets to temp and I can add more, now if I start it without the cap it over flows in about 20 seconds.
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:39 PM
  #23209  
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From: Frisco, Tx
Year: 1994
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Thermostat installed backwards?
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:39 PM
  #23210  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by avision
Every other time i have flushed/changed my coolant I haven't had to do this, why now? And from what I have read you "shouldn't" have to burp an open system, I always have though just by squeezing the upper rad. hose. And why does the pressure in the radiator build so fast, every other time I have started it while filling the levels start to drop as the engine gets to temp and I can add more, now if I start it without the cap it over flows in about 20 seconds.
Something is plugged somewhere. How are you flushing it?
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:40 PM
  #23211  
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I tried two different caps just for the hell of it, didn't make any difference.
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:42 PM
  #23212  
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Something is plugged somewhere. How are you flushing it?
I didn't flush it this time, I did that about 4 months, so I just drained it from the lower radiator hose.
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:43 PM
  #23213  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Idk then. I'm guessing something is plugged or you have a major air blockage. It's hard to diagnose something like this that isn't in front of me.

I think pulling the sensor and filling it with the engine off is worth the effort. I always do it.
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 08:49 PM
  #23214  
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Idk then. I'm guessing something is plugged or you have a major air blockage. It's hard to diagnose something like this that isn't in front of me.

I think pulling the sensor and filling it with the engine off is worth the effort. I always do it.
How much of an incline do I need? I have lift mounts so the engine is tilted a little more than usual. Upper radiator hose doesn't seem to be getting hot either. Kinda sucks that everything was fine with the ****ty single core plastic tank radiator.
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:07 PM
  #23215  
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From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
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Hey guys. Reporting back from my no start earlier. I am not getting any spark. From what I have read it is now down to CPS or ignition switch.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...ailing-639123/
I have my OHM meter out but to be honest I just bought it and have no clue to use it. I believe I have it hooked up correctly. But as far as what I am looking for when I touch the pins I do not know. I'll attach a pic after this but so you know when I touch the pins the number just stays at 1. When touching the same pin (I know thats not how you test it) the number goes down to .01

Any tips on what I am looking for/help trouble shooting the CPS
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:08 PM
  #23216  
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From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
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Engine: HO4.0 I6
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Here is the ohm meter I picked up. (Ultimate cheapo $2.99)
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:16 PM
  #23217  
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From: Bel Air, MD
Year: 1994 and 1996
Model: Cherokee
Default ticking sound near battery

Just had head gasket done and then had to replace my alternator. I also have a brand battery. As the car is running, voltage gauge on the dash sits at 14 but then creeps upward towards high end red limit, never going over but sitting somewhere are 16 or so. I haven't tested with a meter as I just noticed this today.
When I got out of the car on several occasions I could here a ticking/ soft clicking sound coming from under the hood near where the battery is located.
Could an alternator 'overcharge' a battery?
Sorry my description isn't better.
XJ is a 91 and new battery is an exide, new alt is a 90 amp remy from advanced auto
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:19 PM
  #23218  
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From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
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Engine: HO4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by xj guy
Here is the ohm meter I picked up. (Ultimate cheapo $2.99)
Okay, So that 1 doesn't change when I run the test so that means there is a lot of resistance in the CPS circuit correct? If the system had a low reading on my OHM meter it would mean that it is in good shape?

So basically this proves that my CPS is in need of replacing? sorry for the n00b questions.
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:45 PM
  #23219  
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From: Raymore, Mo
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Cross23fb

Yeah my horn works as it should. That sucks I was hoping for a easy fix
In response to your turn signal switch the clock spring has zero to do with it, the problem is going to be internal to the switch itself
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 11:10 PM
  #23220  
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Did a compression test today and 2-6 were at 150 while cylinder 1 was at 120. Is this ok?

Last edited by greenxj21; Feb 9, 2013 at 12:54 AM.



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