goldenlandscaping

Yea ball joint was shot to **** and back put on new track bar and now it only has death wobble if i hit a bump or rough spot in the road.
Would shocks cause death wobble too? and how about tie rod and also can i replace all the tres with heim or johnny joints

AdvanZ33

A couple questions for anyone who has taken the dash panel off a 95 (or similar) and for you audiophiles. I bought my 95 country with an aftermarket deck and here's what happened:

-plugged my phone charger into the cigarette lighter.
-checked my phone for messages while it was plugged in.
-the second I hit the home button on my iPhone the deck/cigarette lighter stopped working.

I checked the appropriate fuses; under the dash and in the engine bay (#16 if recall) but they were not blown. I want to check the fuse behind the stereo but I'm afraid of cracking my dash panel. My questions are:

1) Is there a decent DIY for removing the dash panel? I've read, so far, to remove the 2 screws above the gauge cluster and the screws above the headlight switch and cigarette lighter and start pulling. Assuming that's correct, is there a specific order I need to pull in order to keep the panel from cracking?

2) Why did my stereo/cigarette lighter stop working? I imagine who ever hooked up the stereo used the cigarette lighter as a form of ground or power but I also noticed there is a red wire connecting directly to my fuse box under the dash.

Any help would be great. I really want to get behind the CD player and investigate but I want to make sure I take the proper steps until I get a FSM...which if anyone has a .pdf, please share

goldenlandscaping

Every XJ i ever owned has this red wire in the same place i think it is stock as for the dash just take your time and it should come loose safely but dont be worried if you break anything it will only be those little flimsy clips and as for the socket may have just come loose you will just have to look and see

AdvanZ33

Thanks for the reply. So the those 4 screws I mentioned are the only ones I need to remove?

Griff94

I think my odometer is screwed up, need some help. I only ever drive to school and other short distances around my area. I got my jeep in Early September with 94,xxx miles and now its up to 96,001. could i really have added almost 2000 miles in under a month?

dave cedillo

thanks.

dukie564

87-90 is the 4.0 with the RENIX (Renault/Bendix) fuel injection system. This is considered the "low output" motor.

In 91 they improved the head, cam and fuel injection set up. 91-06 is the 4.0 High Output with the Chrysler fuel injection system. Cherokees 91-96 and Wranglers 91-95 were badged as "4.0L, High Output".

The main difference between the two is the head flow characteristics. The ports in the head for the intake/exhaust are bigger and flow more freely, along with a change in camshafts and the deletion of some sensors, such as the knock sensor found on the RENIX 4.0s. Changes were good for about 20 hp more.



Personally i like Haynes manuals - but they're both pretty much the same.
If you plan on really getting into your jeep there is no substitute for a factory service manual though.

dukie564

Well was it closer to 94,999? 15k a year is pretty standard for a daily driver (1250mi/month) so numbers seem reasonable. Is your speed off as well? Check it with a GPS. If your speedo is reading faster than the gps says, you may need a new speedo gear, but i doubt it.

Andrewvk

ok, ive been searching but i havent been able to find the answer.
from the research ive done i found i have an np231, 2-4hi-n-4lo
my dash lights up part time when i put it in 4wd, now when it says part time im thinking of a awd drive not 4wd. but i just read but not been able to confirm that 4hi-4lo part time is not an awd variation but front wheel(s) are spinning. can i get a confirmation???

dukie564

You are correct. Since you have the np231, you only can select a part-time 4x4 mode. This means it should only be used part-time, on loose ground/snow/mud, since it forces the axles to rotate at the same speed. Using the 4x4 on pavement with this transfer case will cause binding. 4hi is for higher speeds. 4lo is for more torque, and turns the axles 2.72x slower - low speeds only.

There is a np242 transfer case that allows full-time 4x4, where you can put in in 4x4 and leave it on regardless of surface - it automatically engages. This is closer to the awd on other vehicles. You do not have this.

Hope this cleared it up.

Griff94

It was closer to 94,400 i think, I'll see if I can borrow my gf's gps and see if the speed is good. Big help, Thanks!

damageincracing

This might have been glossed over a few pages back, or I may have missed the reply, but I'll shoot it out there again. I have the part-time 4wd (np231 transfer case) with the part time 4HI. Does anybody know what is all involved in changing it over to the GOOD full-time 4wd? Is it as simple as swapping out to the other transfer case (and changing out the shifter cover inside the Jeep), or is there more to it? I'm thinking about doing this at some point in the near future if it's relatively quick... Not sure why... Guess I like the idea of having REAL 4WD if I want to drive over someone... I mean someTHING! LOL

DEVILSTOY

im almost certain its just changeing the transfer case and maybe the linkage

Andrewvk

lol i way would rather have 4wd part time.

even though i think its a crappy explanation for it, 4wd full time i think it when the tcase is fully en gauged, it should be full time. part time is it works part time like awd.

damageincracing

I just want to be able to go off road and back to the street without having to shift back to 2WD (or blow up the transfer case). The way people drive (and park) around where I live, a full time 4WD would really come in handy for going over curbs to get out of parking spaces that these idiot mercedes and bmws box people into. It would probably also come in handy for going OVER these same idiots...