LizardRunner

a 3-4" lift will require longer shocks, period.

CantStopCruzing

do you think the absence of an air intake could cause my jeep to bog out at higher rpms? i know theres vaccuum hoses going into the airbox and the throttle body, and it just kind of hit me today that they aren't doing much cuz theres no intake connecting the two.


also, where does the hose on the bottom of the airbox go? i can post pics later if needed. i just have an elbow sticking out the bottom.

thanx again.

dukie564

i don't think I quite understand...are you saying you aren't running an air filter at all? Because that can be extremely bad for your engine.

This is what your system SHOULD look like

CantStopCruzing

hence why im not running it. i have it sitting, slowly repairing the POS hackjob from the person i bought it from. as of right now, i do not have the air intake hose, which is why im not running it.


and believe it or not, parts are not as easy to find in Hawaii as the mainland. i cant find the air intake here, and napa doesn't carry the one i need. i have a 86 renix TBI, not the 4.0., so parts are not in abundance. i have the diagram and everything hooked up right, just need the air intake.


but what im trying to figure out is if its bogging out at higher rpms because there is no air intake or if its something else

CantStopCruzing

also, thats a different diagram than is under my hood. i'll post a pic

CantStopCruzing

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54641530@N05/5307086063/http://www.flickr.com/photos/54641530@N05/5307086063/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/54641530@N05/, on Flickr


that hose on the bottom of the airbox. wtf does it go? someone help me out!


also, is this supposed to just have that little white plate over it? whats supposed to go there?http://www.flickr.com/photos/54641530@N05/5307087335/http://www.flickr.com/photos/54641530@N05/5307087335/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/54641530@N05/, on Flickr

ZachsXJ

Internal? Yes.

Serviceable? Absolutely.

95% of alternator failures are fried diode packs, or worn out brushes. If you have some simple hand tools it is surprisingly easy to replace the diode packs on an alternator. Not only that but you can get the diode packs for free at most junkyards and not counting the time to remove an alternator from the vehicle they take about 5 minutes to remove.

AKA swapping in ANY ZJ axles under an XJ is actually a downgrade.

The strongest readily available axles for an XJ that are bolt in are as follows: High-Pinion Dana 30 with 3.55 gears
29 Spline Chrysler 8.25 with 3.55 gears

An XJ Dana 44 is marginally stronger than a 29 Spline 8.25 and both axles are proven to be strong enough for 35s without much issue, however XJ D44s are quite difficult to come by.

dukie564

the bottom tube is supposed to connect to a heat shield cover on the exhaust manifold, thus the vacuum motor (opens this tube for cold starts to preheat the intake air till the engine is at operating temp - helps with cold emissions).

You also seem to be completely missing your EGR valve, which should go where that white plate is (and also why it looks crispy-fried).

Looks like you have a gigantic job ahead of you sorting all that out...you weren't kidding about the hack job.

CantStopCruzing

awesome. cant wait for this. should be a hell of a time sorting this out


thanx for the response, its very much appreciated. theres a lot to figure out still, and im waiting for a manual for almost a month now, so can't make too much progress. but expect to see lots of me on this site!



i was looking at my diagram, going wtf where is the egr? figured that white plate was where its supposed to go. thanx for confirming

ZachsXJ

i wish I could help, I can't though.

You're kinda double screwed. Not only do you have the very rare carb'd 2.5L but the previous owner seems to have messed up quite a few things.

If you don't already have one, I would suggest hunting down a Factory Service Manual for your model year and go by that to fix anything. With as hacked up as it looks I would be very apprehensive about messing with it without a known accurate wiring diagram to go by(aka FSM)

CantStopCruzing

can it be run without the egr valve? just trying to figure out what would possess someone to take it off. is it there to basically help control emissions or does it have a bigger purpose?

CantStopCruzing

negative on that. its throttle body injected, which is basically the same friggin thing. but yeah, im waiting on a repair book. have the Renix TBI manual, and some sort of service manual for pre 90 cherokees. just don't know where to start. its a big undertaking

dukie564

No he has the 2.5L with the TBI system.

It serves a large purpose. It can be successfully disabled, but MUST be done so in the PROM in the ECM before removing the actual solenoid. If you simply remove the EGR system from the car, but do not disable it in the ECM, you will run into significant problems. You will likely run into detonation, the engine will run very poorly, lack power, and will probably run on the hot side as well. The ECM alters fuel and spark advance when it thinks EGR should be on. If no EGR flow is possible because you removed it, you will have a lean condition which will be further aggravated by advanced timing....In other words...it will suck.

You will also not pass any sort of emissions testing.

This is something you absolutely need to fix.

dukie564

here i found an edited image for a bit of clarification

Jeep95

Alright man sweet send me a pm or something if you find it and wanna get rid of it.