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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
So I just purchased a 2000 XJ with 225k under the hood. Its my first and am excited. Lot of rust and perhaps not well maintained.
I drove 150a kms after buying it from the seller's place to my house, during night, no issues. Now I drove in the city within 2 kms, and it stalls and starts
again after
about 5 mins, perhaps after cooling off.
its a 4L 4x4 with 242 transfer case.
Anyone had the same issues?
Also when I try to idle the engine to keep the battery charged, its doing the same, turns off after few mins, on after cooling, also stutters?! Very occasionally but jerks a bit when idling. I am now afraid of driving it even to a garage. Am pretty tech savvy but need some pointers from experienced folks here.
cheers!
Sound almost exactly like the issue I was having in my '00.
CPS was the culprit cause it was experiencing thermal failure.
Can read about my experience with it here:
Thank you for the quick reply.
By CPS are you referring to Crankshaft Position sensor or Camshaft position sensor?
Crankshaft.
Hopefully that is what is wrong with yours too.
Not a hard install but an awkward one.
Google it and read up on it.
Oh and use a Mopar CPS.
Period.
Amazing, ordered both to just get it out of the way.
will only change the crankshaft position sensor and keep you all posted here.
Wonder why did it (go bad) though? Right after I purchased the XJ..lol. or was it the long 150 km drive?
So I changed the crankshaft position sensor yesterday, however the old bolts that were tight and snug now keep spinning. The existing bolts are 1/4 -28 about 1.25" long.
I wonder why they are not M7 which is what I they are suppose to be.
I was very careful removing and installing those. Did not cross thread but now thinking of up sizing those for a tight fit.
Anyone else had similar issues? Any pointers will help.
If I had to guess sound like somebody has already been in there and used the wrong bolts.
Specs are M7x1.00x25.
Part number is 6503520.
Almost positive I used an 11mm socket to remove mine.
Had an issue when I lost one. Been machining metal forever, never had a 7x1 mm thread. Made new bolts from stainless, all good. Possible you could run an 8mm tap thru existing holes. Loctite the bolts, don't tighten too much. It will hold, I've done it. R
Had an issue when I lost one. Been machining metal forever, never had a 7x1 mm thread. Made new bolts from stainless, all good. Possible you could run an 8mm tap thru existing holes. Loctite the bolts, don't tighten too much. It will hold, I've done it. R
Exactly my thoughts, called around for M7 bolts and it would be easier to find a Unicorn. Now if I can find my tap and die set somewhere in the house...
Thank you all for the encouragement support and tips.
I have this weird feeling when it comes to the bolts for a CPS.
I wonder how much it matters what the bolt you use is.
Here is a shot of a CPS bolt out of an '00.
See the unthreaded part?
I am literally just guessing here.
But I assume that the position of the CPS in relation to the flex plate matters.
If so I don't see you reproducing that with a hardware store bolt.
But then again. Maybe it doesn't matter one bit. LOL.