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cruiser54
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The blow-by into the air cleaner is most likely caused by that gunk restricting the CCV fittings and hoses, along with the "flutes" that extend down into the valve cover.
Since you have an 88 with the valve cover off, I highly suggest doing this mod:
Cruiser’s Valve Cover Mod
Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin.
Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets.
Since you have an 88 with the valve cover off, I highly suggest doing this mod:
Cruiser’s Valve Cover Mod
Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin.
Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets.
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cruiser54
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Quote:
MMO is a decent cleaner. I've heard great reports about Kreen, but haven't tried it.
Actually, ATF is very high in detergents and that is why it works so well for this purpose. Been doing it since the 1970s with no issues at all.Originally Posted by belvedere
ATF has far less detergent than regular motor oil. It will only thin your oil.MMO is a decent cleaner. I've heard great reports about Kreen, but haven't tried it.
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cruiser54
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Debries will fall down in oil pan, go through pump and get stuck in filter, you don't want to drive with partially clogged filter.
Change oil and filter, add 2 bottles of ATF and rest 20W50. Run engine (don't drive) for a few minutes around 2000 RPM.
You can change oil and filter couple times if you want to clean better.
After you are done fill engine by pure oil.
Your rings are probably OK, they are just stuck.
Rings are probably NOT stuck. The blow-by is being caused by restrictions in the CCV system.Originally Posted by car5car
I would suggest not to drive a car with any kind of cleaning solution (ATF, MMO, diesel etc) inside.Debries will fall down in oil pan, go through pump and get stuck in filter, you don't want to drive with partially clogged filter.
Change oil and filter, add 2 bottles of ATF and rest 20W50. Run engine (don't drive) for a few minutes around 2000 RPM.
You can change oil and filter couple times if you want to clean better.
After you are done fill engine by pure oil.
Your rings are probably OK, they are just stuck.
FYI, I've run engines with a quart of ATF in the crankcase for a week or two before changing it out. ATF has high detergents and a very high film strength.
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Should we all quit trying to help now?Originally Posted by JEEPISLIFE88
All I know is this jeep is becoming a headache and I want to get rid of it
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I don't know why the ATF myth persists. ATF may have helped clean 40-50 years ago; modern oil and ATF bear little resemblence to their ancestors. ATF contains very little detergent - much less than modern motor oil does. Don't take my word for it, though; call the tech line of any major oil company and ask them.
I would suggest manually cleaning as much as you can, and then running something like MMO (change your oil and filter after the manual cleaning, and use 5 qts oil and 1 qt MMO). MMO is not a fast cleaner, but will help over time. Just keep an eye on your oil, and change it when it starts looking dark. You may wind up changing it by the 1000 mile mark, since things look to be pretty sludged up.
I would suggest manually cleaning as much as you can, and then running something like MMO (change your oil and filter after the manual cleaning, and use 5 qts oil and 1 qt MMO). MMO is not a fast cleaner, but will help over time. Just keep an eye on your oil, and change it when it starts looking dark. You may wind up changing it by the 1000 mile mark, since things look to be pretty sludged up.
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OK, looks like we posted at the same time. Anyway, ATF is higher in dispersants (keeps contaminants suspended), but not detergent.
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Not saying ATF will hurt, just that it wont' clean. All it will do is thin your oil (most ATF is roughly equal to about a 5W20).
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Isn't that a good thing? Dispersants?Originally Posted by belvedere
OK, looks like we posted at the same time. Anyway, ATF is higher in dispersants (keeps contaminants suspended), but not detergent.
I didn't realize ATF had changed so much. And, we didn't have all this hyped-up crap to choose from back then.
I have also used the MMO as you suggest and it works well. I use Rotella 15-40 with a quality oil filter.
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Quote:
It sure used to. And pretty quickly.Originally Posted by belvedere
Not saying ATF will hurt, just that it wont' clean. All it will do is thin your oil (most ATF is roughly equal to about a 5W20).
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Quote:
Sure, and like I said, it sure won't hurt anything. I guess if you think about it, it makes sense for ATF to have little detergent...there are no by-products of combustion, etc, in a trans, so much less need for cleaning. The fine particles from worn clutches, though, are held in suspension (at least partially) by the dispersants.Originally Posted by cruiser54
Isn't that a good thing? Dispersants?I recommended MMO because it is a fairly effective cleaner, and widely available. I believe there are better products, but not as widely available.
Well, I'm off to work. Have a good day!
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Unfortunately, I'll have to agree with the newbie on this one.
Okay, I will, too since ATF has changed so much.
So, to recap. The OP has a sludgy engine. I've seen much worse get cleaned up with good quality oil and an additive. He has some options. He can scrape, vacuum etc the top of the head and risk dropping chunks down through the oil drain holes into the pan and have the screen pick them up.
Or, he can put 5 quarts of Rotella diesel oil in with a quart of MMO and run it for 1,000 miles and change it. Of course, use a high quality filter.
Do the valve cover mod AND really clean up the valve cover and make sure his CCV grommets, orifices, and piping/hoses are clear.
Okay, I will, too since ATF has changed so much.
So, to recap. The OP has a sludgy engine. I've seen much worse get cleaned up with good quality oil and an additive. He has some options. He can scrape, vacuum etc the top of the head and risk dropping chunks down through the oil drain holes into the pan and have the screen pick them up.
Or, he can put 5 quarts of Rotella diesel oil in with a quart of MMO and run it for 1,000 miles and change it. Of course, use a high quality filter.
Do the valve cover mod AND really clean up the valve cover and make sure his CCV grommets, orifices, and piping/hoses are clear.
Quote:
Okay, I will, too since ATF has changed so much.
So, to recap. The OP has a sludgy engine. I've seen much worse get cleaned up with good quality oil and an additive. He has some options. He can scrape, vacuum etc the top of the head and risk dropping chunks down through the oil drain holes into the pan and have the screen pick them up.
Or, he can put 5 quarts of Rotella diesel oil in with a quart of MMO and run it for 1,000 miles and change it. Of course, use a high quality filter.
Do the valve cover mod AND really clean up the valve cover and make sure his CCV grommets, orifices, and piping/hoses are clear.
Ill be messing with it today and see what happens thanks for all the advice.Originally Posted by cruiser54
Unfortunately, I'll have to agree with the newbie on this one. Okay, I will, too since ATF has changed so much.
So, to recap. The OP has a sludgy engine. I've seen much worse get cleaned up with good quality oil and an additive. He has some options. He can scrape, vacuum etc the top of the head and risk dropping chunks down through the oil drain holes into the pan and have the screen pick them up.
Or, he can put 5 quarts of Rotella diesel oil in with a quart of MMO and run it for 1,000 miles and change it. Of course, use a high quality filter.
Do the valve cover mod AND really clean up the valve cover and make sure his CCV grommets, orifices, and piping/hoses are clear.
Seasoned Member
What Cruiser54 said in his last post Been doing this for years in new to me used motors never a problem. Ibuy MMO by the gallon. Also works well for lubing your air tools.