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Wont start correctly or stay running

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Old 01-09-2012, 12:56 AM
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Default Wont start correctly or stay running

I have a 96 cherokee with the 4.0L inline 6. I have replaced the starter, put in a new fuel pump and also changed my fuel filter and spark plugs. My jeep is fuel injected but i have to feather the throttle to get it started along with the fact that it dies in busy intersections. At first i figured it was just air in the fuel line and rail but ive ran almost a half tank of fuel and it still runs this way. If you have any ideas or experience with this problem please help. Thanks Alot!
Old 01-09-2012, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Honncho
I have a 96 cherokee with the 4.0L inline 6. I have replaced the starter, put in a new fuel pump and also changed my fuel filter and spark plugs. My jeep is fuel injected but i have to feather the throttle to get it started along with the fact that it dies in busy intersections. At first i figured it was just air in the fuel line and rail but ive ran almost a half tank of fuel and it still runs this way. If you have any ideas or experience with this problem please help. Thanks Alot!
Maybe a bad throttle position sensor (TPS?) is not regulating your idle correctly?
Old 01-09-2012, 12:58 AM
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Oh, and hey, welcome to the forum!
Old 01-09-2012, 01:05 AM
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Thanks but would the tps make it start bad and die in mid run? It idles fine but when i hit the throttle i noticed it stalls out then i get power
Old 01-09-2012, 02:05 AM
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Have you cleaned your throttle body? You might consider cleaning the TB and cleaning the idle air control sensor (mounted on the TB)... and possibly replace your O2 sensors too.

These are just "good maintenance" tips when troubleshooting stuff like this... not necessarily a one-shot fix
Old 01-09-2012, 05:27 AM
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I'm with kidkodiak on his line of thinking....

1. Thoroughly clean both the throttle body and idle air control. They get carboned up over time and miles.

2. Be sure all tuneup hardware is fresh. New Champion copper plugs, quality wires, cap, rotor

3. Test your throttle position sensor. The symptoms you describe could absolutely be caused by a failing TPS.

4. A marginal battery raises havoc with the engine management system and can create driveability problems. Any parts store will LOAD TEST the battery for free. And yes, you CAN have a battery that is strong enough to start the engine, but marginal enough to give you trouble.
--------------------------------------
The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
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