Window motor goes down not up, replaced everything
#1
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Year: 1998
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Window motor goes down not up, replaced everything
Hi everyone,
I have been chasing this window motor problem on my cherokee since I bought it. The front passenger window motor used to work, went up and down. Then, one day it started only going down, and it wouldn't go up. A few times, I kicked the door and then it went up. It won't do that anymore, though.
I replaced the motor and tested that it goes up and down, and the switch, and tested that, it works. (both from the junkyard). It still only goes down.
It doesn't go either direction from the drivers side switch. I tested continuity on all 4 of those circled wires and they are continuous.
I have no idea what else to check. Also, all of the leds on both switches work. If anyone could help that would be great.
I have been chasing this window motor problem on my cherokee since I bought it. The front passenger window motor used to work, went up and down. Then, one day it started only going down, and it wouldn't go up. A few times, I kicked the door and then it went up. It won't do that anymore, though.
I replaced the motor and tested that it goes up and down, and the switch, and tested that, it works. (both from the junkyard). It still only goes down.
It doesn't go either direction from the drivers side switch. I tested continuity on all 4 of those circled wires and they are continuous.
I have no idea what else to check. Also, all of the leds on both switches work. If anyone could help that would be great.
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Engine: 4.0
I would say the problem is likely in your driver's side switch (or the connection to it). Both the ground and the current for the motor has to flow through the driver's module before it flows through the passenger side switch. Since you are sure that the passenger side switch works correctly, and the driver's side isn't doing anything correctly, I'd say it's the prime suspect.
Perhaps you can mimic the function of the driver's switch using , and see where that gets you. If you disconnect the passenger side from the driver's side, and mimic with a few jumpers, you can test the function of the passenger side. You'll need both power and ground, and be careful how you hook them up!
Perhaps you can mimic the function of the driver's switch using , and see where that gets you. If you disconnect the passenger side from the driver's side, and mimic with a few jumpers, you can test the function of the passenger side. You'll need both power and ground, and be careful how you hook them up!
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Year: 1998
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I would say the problem is likely in your driver's side switch (or the connection to it). Both the ground and the current for the motor has to flow through the driver's module before it flows through the passenger side switch. Since you are sure that the passenger side switch works correctly, and the driver's side isn't doing anything correctly, I'd say it's the prime suspect.
Perhaps you can mimic the function of the driver's switch using some jumpers, and see where that gets you. If you disconnect the passenger side from the driver's side, and mimic with a few jumpers, you can test the function of the passenger side. You'll need both power and ground, and be careful how you hook them up!
Perhaps you can mimic the function of the driver's switch using some jumpers, and see where that gets you. If you disconnect the passenger side from the driver's side, and mimic with a few jumpers, you can test the function of the passenger side. You'll need both power and ground, and be careful how you hook them up!
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Year: 1997
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The solder joints in the switch have been known to crack. Theres a circuit board in there that everything runs thru. You can open it up and resolder if needed (if you do one, do them all), or buy a new switch.
He doesnt cover it, but the buttons for the mirrors do not pop off. They are mounted to the cover itself, from the backside, so let them be.
He doesnt cover it, but the buttons for the mirrors do not pop off. They are mounted to the cover itself, from the backside, so let them be.
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Thanks fb97! I took both switches apart and found a few broken solder joints. I resoldered all of the joints and hooked everything back up.
Now, I can roll the window up from both sides but not down from either side.......ugh...
I am going to check the wires in the door jamb next. Another thing, it is really hesitant when being rolled up from the driver side, like the flow of electricity is there sometimes and not there other times.
Now, I can roll the window up from both sides but not down from either side.......ugh...
I am going to check the wires in the door jamb next. Another thing, it is really hesitant when being rolled up from the driver side, like the flow of electricity is there sometimes and not there other times.
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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It's likely you have a combination of bad connections, gunked up motor (old grease gets hard), and broken, but not quite severed, wires in the door jamb.
My normal spiel is to check grounds, but they share their ground with a bazillion other things that would be acting up if that were the problem.
My normal spiel is to check grounds, but they share their ground with a bazillion other things that would be acting up if that were the problem.
#7
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Ok, so after repairing all the wires in the door looms it STILL only goes up, not down. I have no idea what is causing it. We spent an hour testing the passenger side switch with a multimeter and it all seems good. It still seems like it's the brown and white wire coming from the d side switch but it has continuity and I repaired the gash in it....... ugh... If anyone else has any insight I would really appreciate it. I don't think the motor is gunked up because it goes up and down fine with direct power.
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#8
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Try running a temporary jumper to replace that wire. See what happens. Nothing fancy - just lay it across the seats. It's just a test, not a replacement.
If that fixes it, I'll explain why.
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There it is. A gunked up connection can show good on a continuity test, but not pass enough current to operate a device, especially a current hog like a motor.
Good job!
Good job!
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