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will an engine from an auto go into my manual?

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Old 09-14-2011, 01:01 AM
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ok sounds dumb I know, but I FINALLY may have found a replacement 96 4.0 to go into my 96 xj... but it is from an automatic and I have a manual... what issues would/will I have?
Old 09-14-2011, 01:10 AM
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It will work fine, you will just have to take the flexplate off the auto engine and put your flywheel from the manual tranny engine onto the auto engine. You will also need to install a pilot bearing into the crank of the auto engine. They just tap into place.
Old 09-14-2011, 01:16 AM
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Only issue I can think of would be if the end of the crank isn't drilled for the pilot bearing. Most cranks I've seen are already pre drilled for it. The machining center on the assembly line probably doesn't know if the engine gets an auto or manual trans so it would get drilled by default. Sort of like all the extra electrical connections in the wiring harnesses. They're put there so the harness can be used with whatever options are added to the rig on the assembly line.

That said, I haven't seen the end of a 4.0 crank though, so I'd still wait till hearing from someone that has before you pull the trigger on it.

All other accessories should be able to be swapped over from your old block to the new one.
Old 09-14-2011, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by GoMopar440
Only issue I can think of would be if the end of the crank isn't drilled for the pilot bearing. Most cranks I've seen are already pre drilled for it. The machining center on the assembly line probably doesn't know if the engine gets an auto or manual trans so it would get drilled by default. Sort of like all the extra electrical connections in the wiring harnesses. They're put there so the harness can be used with whatever options are added to the rig on the assembly line.

That said, I haven't seen the end of a 4.0 crank though, so I'd still wait till hearing from someone that has before you pull the trigger on it.

All other accessories should be able to be swapped over from your old block to the new one.
The crank will be drilled most surely. Every auto to manual swap I have done on all the cars over the years have been drilled. as a matter of fact I have NEVER seen an undrilled crank period. even torque coverters from autos have a nub on them that slips in the crank.

Grab the motor it will work for sure other then what I posted above.

ALSO the pilot bearing IS NOT a requirment if you decided to run without one it would still work and be fine, the only issue you will have is the input shaft on the tranny will not be supported which over time will wear out the bearing in the tranny.

I have seen cars get swapped and not use a pilot bearing that are still running strong 30k miles later with no tranny probs.
Old 09-14-2011, 11:35 AM
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Good to know. Thanks for clearing it up.

I can't remember which engine it was that I was working on, but I've come across the non-drilled crank issue before. It seemed wierd it wasn't drilled back then too. Maybe it got missed at the factory?
Old 09-14-2011, 12:58 PM
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for the sake of drilling a few holes, it wouldn't normally make sense for a manufacturer to produce auto vs manual cranks.
Old 09-14-2011, 01:35 PM
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ok let me throw this one at you... I also found a better deal on a 92 4.0 ho... besides the fly wheel(it is an auto also) what would I need to make it work? is the computer(?) different, rockauto.com was the same parts # for the motor mounts and a few other things just not the computer(ecm?) would I need the 92 ecm or will mine connect to it? A guy on NAXJA says just the flywheel, but wanted as many opinions on this as possible.

Last edited by En.Ki; 09-14-2011 at 01:42 PM.
Old 09-14-2011, 02:59 PM
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If you just use the 92 long block and bolt all of your accessories and sensors to it along with your intake and throttle body it will work as well. But the 96 is newer then the 92. So you should see what motor has less mileage on it sand choose from there not worth saving a little bit of green buying a higher millage 92 engine over the 96 if that would be the case
Old 09-14-2011, 04:07 PM
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understandable with the mileage, but regardless it is a temporary engine situation as I just have to get it running while I rebuild the other one. It is supposed to snow at 10K+ ft tonight and I live @ 7300+ so it will be soon that it starts snowing in my part of the mountains.

So, just using the long block from the 92 would work, but throwing the whole engine in (the 92) would nothing line up? I may have misread your statement as using the long block is the only way? Could I drop the whole engine in and still have my 96 connections hook up to it? I just am trying to find out what accessories I may need to grab if I have to go with the 92 (can't get either til friday or saturday anyway).

If I did the long block idea you proposed would I still be using the rest of my 96 engine? (it is pretty well shot, bad bad bad noises from my #2 + #3 cylinders.)
The 96 one I found she has a person looking at it today or tomorrow so I doubt it will be available, so I just want to be prepared to go with the 92 because I have a feeling that is what is going to happen.

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Old 09-14-2011, 05:01 PM
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Only problem I see with putting in a 92 engine IMO and even then Im not positive, but the 92 engine may not have all the provisions to hook up every sensor. I think the head might have a few diff connectors in it. But don't hold me to it. Im not sure what years they started swapping sensors and what not. The engine will bolt up to your tranny fine though, its a matter of sapping the flexplate out for the flywheel like someone mentioned.
Old 09-14-2011, 05:12 PM
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:12 PM
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The long block is what the head and engine block and rotating assembly is called when bolted together, a short block is the block and rotating assembly only it doesn't include the head.

To use the 92 engine you would have to take it down to the long block which means pull the intake manifold,all bracketry and accessories such as power steering pump ,alternator, AC. Pump.

Then bolt all of those items from your 96 engine onto the 92 engine.

I will post a few pics in 1sec to give you an idea


Short Block
http://www.flickr.com/photos/79431505@N00/2315001411/




Long block
http://tinypic.com/r/2j3isnn/7

Last edited by Nor-CalJeeper; 09-14-2011 at 05:32 PM.
Old 09-14-2011, 06:33 PM
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so, someone on NAXJA has told me I will need to switch the fuel rail from the 92 on my XJ? is this correct
Old 09-14-2011, 06:46 PM
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Yes that is correct, the 92 uses a different style of fuel line connector as well as a different fuel pressure regulator then the 96 rail.

You want to strip the 92 motor down so it looks like the engine in the long block photo inposted and then bolt everything from your 96 engine on to it then it will drop right into your xj
Old 12-02-2011, 01:39 PM
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hey, i might be reviving an old thread, but i have an 88' cherokee I6 manual engine that i am looking to swap with a straight six, auto engine. My question is about the pilot bearing. Can i take the pilot bearing out of the old engine/crankshaft, or do i need to purchase another pilot bearing to tap into place? If i need a new one, is it a commonly available part (Parts store?)

also could i get a description of removing the plate on the auto and replacing it with the flywheel?

thank you in advance


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