My front axle u-joints are about shot, so I'm planning to order a set of Spicer replacements and swap them out. While I'm in there, I'm making a list of what else I should replace with it all being apart already. I'm thinking I should replace the hub/bearing assemblies with new Timken units (part #513084). How about the large axle nut? Anything else that's easy to do while I've got it apart? Brakes are fine, BTW.

 

maybe the inner axle seals, if they're old or leaking. you could change out your hub units, if you want to, then keep the old ones for spares, if they're still decent.
the axle nut is a 36mm and the three bolts from behind are 13mm 12pt so either a socket or box end of wrench will work. they can be a pit of a pain. try not to strip them.

otherwise, there's really nothing else in there, except the ball joints...

 

Timkens are a good choice. I put those same 513084 hubs in mine and so far so good. Made in the USA as well, if you care about that.

You could change your front diff fluid if it's due.
AFTER you put your axles back in though. When you slide the shafts back into the diff they're going to take plenty of garbage in with it no matter how hard you try to prevent it, especially if you wheel your Jeep.

 

Get a torch on them. Not the bolt heads but from the outside where they thread in place.

Works wonders.

 

Thanks for all the pointers. Is there just one inner set of axle seals, or is there an outer set? I'm assuming my inners are original, so I'll replace those while I'm in there.

Does the front axle use a c-clip setup like the rear, or does it just pull out once I unbolt the hub?

As for the axle u-joints, are they the 5-1310X like the rear driveshaft or the 5-760X? I'm looking for non-greaseable.

Finally, should I replace the large nut that holds the axle end to the hub? If so, what's it called? I can't seen to locate it on Rock Auto.

 

Axle seals (front) -- one set, right at the diff pumpkin -- require pulling the front diff, btw. It's not all that hard, but it's awful dirty and the bearing caps MUST be re-installed exactly as they were.. so you need to make sure the orientation is not forgotten.

Axles just pull out. Be careful, passenger side is long and heavy and if you don't do the seals, the old ones are that much more fragile.

Axle nut (the 36mm guy) is fine to re-use. There's a cotter pin setup, so make sure you do use a new cotter pin. Note the hub bearing can be a pain to remove.. it gets rusted in the knuckle. There is a trick where you use a deep socket and the power steering to "pop" the hub out. Don't sit there hammering and prying... USE the trick, it's super easy, well documented and works great.

Axle u-joints are very different than the driveshaft. Non-grease are definitely best and they're INNER clips for the caps rather than the outer clip style used on the driveshafts. I can't recall the part number, but RockAuto should be accurate.

Also, 175ft/lbs on the axle nut!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Under-torquing will cause premature hub failure and those suckers are not all that cheap.

 

I don not believe the front wheel hubs are built in the US anymore. Lots of Timken manufacturing has been moved over seas. When The Jeep Talk Show interviewed a rep from Timken and specifically asked about the hubs he danced around the question talking about how the rear axle bearings are still made in the US but much of their manufacturing has been moved over seas. He never gave a straight answer to if the hubs are still US made or not.

 

Good pointers. I watched a few videos today, and it seems like a pretty straightforward job. I plan to get those outer axle seals to help keep out the crud. Any idea where to get a new cotter pin? Just get one from my local hardware store or auto parts place that's the same size?

As for torquing the axle nut, that's definitely something I'll do properly. I regularly track my VW on race slicks at various road courses, so I've got lots of experience with putting a ton of stress on hubs and the importance of a tight axle nut. For that I'll use a floor jack handle over my breaker bar, but I think my 1/2" torque wrench should be fine on the Cherokee. Also, compared to OEM VW hubs, the Cherokee hubs are pretty damn cheap (and there's no pressing needed ). However, they're still not free.

 

Yeah, cotter pins from the hardware store are what I use.

Good luck. If you've never done u-joints before, the videos and tutorials make it look awful easy. A ball joint press and breaker bar make it a heck of a lot easier. As do tossing the joints in the freezer for a while before installing them. They aren't kidding about being careful with the needle bearings... I had a shop do a u-joint for me and even they screwed it up.

 

Would you mind putting together a parts list when it's all said and done? I think I'd like to copy you when I swap my front axle.

 

Now when I did mine getting the diff out and back in was a pain in the *** . Especially putting it back in as it was a real tight fit. Seems like I had to rig up some straps to hold it in place and carefully pound on it with a dead blow hammer. But then again nothing on my XJ has went as plan except for changing the wiper blades!
Oh as far as the Timkens being made in USA mine were not and I did mine about 2 years ago think they were made in Mexico.

 

Weird I could have sworn mine were USA made just like they used to be years ago. Either I could have gotten old ones or I'm just mistaken! (likely mistaken)
Next time I have my wheels off I'm going to have to check if they said USA on them. Not that it matters at the end of the day but now I'm curious.

 

Mopar even makes some of their parts in Mexico now, but they have a strict quality inspection system in the plants they use. Timken and Moog both had problems with black market manufacturers, but I think they worked that out. India makes good stuff because the British taught them the importance of quality and now they want to make a name for themselves.

 

A lot of Chrysler parts have been made in Meixco going back into the 90s at least. If you can find some NOS parts for mid 90s to 2000s XJs you'll find many stamped with either Made in Canada or Made in Mexico.

I don't put a lot of stock in where things are made anymore as long as it's a quality piece (if the company pays for the QA) but Timken's been deal for a lot of people for a long time has been they are made in the US. If that's important to you then you gotta be on your toes to keep track.

Heck if you want the most made in the USA truck today you have to buy a Honda Ridgeline

 

Don't forget the "Using The Steering To Pop The Hub Out Trick".