wheel bearing
#2
Are you asking about the Front Wheel Spindle Nut? It is 36 MM and has a stamped metal retainer that covers the nut and the split pin that goes thru the hole.
Do you have an impact wrench. The 36 MM is a tuff one to get off and you either need an impact wrench or a substantial breaker bar.
Best to avoid the Dealers, if at all possible. They "over-price" their parts out of greed. And on top of that they then look to the Federal Government to bale them out after they've consumed the excessive profits of their personal greed.
Do you have an impact wrench. The 36 MM is a tuff one to get off and you either need an impact wrench or a substantial breaker bar.
Best to avoid the Dealers, if at all possible. They "over-price" their parts out of greed. And on top of that they then look to the Federal Government to bale them out after they've consumed the excessive profits of their personal greed.
#3
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
The 36 mm spindle nut is gonna take an impact gun or a huge friggin breaker bar while someone steps on the brakes. The four 12 point bolts on the back of the unit are a little unusual,.but as long as you dont round them off, you can reuse them. The lug studs are pressed in but, again, reuseable.
Not sure what bolts you would need from the dealer.
Not sure what bolts you would need from the dealer.
#4
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
x3 on the 36mm axle nut. Torque on that should be 175ft-lbs when you put it back on! It's big n beefy so I doubt you'd have to replace that. The cotter pin that holds the retainer on the nut, you'll want to replace that. Pretty sure there are only 3 of the 12pt bolts holding the unit bearing onto the knuckle, and they can be bought separately - if you can't reuse the ones that are on there. I think I saw them on Quadratec a bit ago by accident and remember thinking I'd grab some if I ever order there. They were like 3 bucks or so online so I'm sure a Napa or whatever could get em too. When I got my new unit bearing assemblies, they came with 5 new wheel studs already pressed in.
Problem I ran into on that project is a stripped hole in the knuckle where the brake caliper mounts. Had to replace the knuckle since I don't trust inserts. Have you considered doing your Ujoints while you're in there?
Good luck!
Problem I ran into on that project is a stripped hole in the knuckle where the brake caliper mounts. Had to replace the knuckle since I don't trust inserts. Have you considered doing your Ujoints while you're in there?
Good luck!
#5
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Year: 2000, (1957 Willys)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm replacing my bearings tomorrow (hopefully)
If one has gone, grab the second and do both. I prefer to beat Murphy to the punch whenever possible.
I'm doing the U-joints and ball joints as well. 108,000 miles on em' ,and what the hell, I don't have a life, I've got jeep.
If one has gone, grab the second and do both. I prefer to beat Murphy to the punch whenever possible.
I'm doing the U-joints and ball joints as well. 108,000 miles on em' ,and what the hell, I don't have a life, I've got jeep.
#6
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Eh. 3 or 4. Been awhile since I've had one apart.
Where'd you get your hub units Potato? All mine ive had to press the old studs in the new unit.
Where'd you get your hub units Potato? All mine ive had to press the old studs in the new unit.
Last edited by REBELoffaLEASH; 07-19-2011 at 08:57 AM. Reason: Typo
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#9
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Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
Don't cheap out on the Hub. Get the best part you can. Cheap hubs won't last and you will do them again. Im at 197000 km (122000mi) on SKF brand hub, made in USA. When you get parts, get the good stuff.
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