I need the procedure including special tools or processes to change front wheel bearings and axles on my 92Jeep Cherokee front Dana 30. Once again my repair manual has left me blank with a caption that says... Please take your vehicle to a shop for this process. It is too difficult for you to do. What I want to be able to do is do this procedure on the trail in an emergency situation. But for 2 day I need to do in my garage

 

it's not hard.
1. remove wheel
2. remove caliper and hang with a bungie chord or coat hanger
3. remove rotor
4. remove hub nut (36mm)
5. remove hub unit by removing the three 12pt bolts that fastens from the rear (12pt 13mm or 1/2")
6. slide out the axle shaft

reverse order being careful when sliding the axle shaft back in by supporting it center of tube as to not tear the inner seal when sliding the end into the pumpkin

there is a couple of tricks you can use to separate the hub from the axle. my favourite is leave the bolt half way in leaving the socket and ratchet on then simply turn the steering wheel until the ratchet comes into contact with the axle knuckle, then force the steering wheel until the hub pops off.

as for replacing the u-joint, you're on your own to find the write up for that, i use a ball joint press clamp or have used sockets and hammer. a good large vise comes in handy to use as a press.

cheers.

 

thanks. And what about the wheel bearings? Are they pressed onto the axle? Say I just need to change the bearings.

 

There is just a hub assembly like the one in this link http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...=hub+assembly# the unit is just bolted to the spindle. No way to just replace the bearings.

 

You replace the hub unit. You can use an old fashioned hub puller to separate the hub from the axle.Hub pullers can be rented.

 

I had to use a long bar on the lugs to keep the axle from spinning while removing the axle nut. Hard to explain that one without a picture. Put one end of the bar in the ground, the other on the hub where the lug nuts are to stop it from rotating.

Also, I'm pretty sure I needed a 12point 13mm socket for the 3 hub screws, can't remember for sure. AND A BREAKER BAR of some sort.
(edit: I see post #2 covered the 12point, I would not start this job until I had one)

http://youtu.be/if5qXv1vH64 (this one will help, multiple parts)

 

Protip:

Jam a beefy screwdriver in the brake disc slots against the caliper BEFORE removing the axle nut. I remove the axle nut right after I pull the tire off. Then proceed to remove the caliper, caliper mount, etc..

 

Or he could just put it in 4wd with the wheel on the opposite side on the ground.

 

or you could grab one of those 7a electric impacts. they are the bomb and will remove that hub nut with ease. even with the wheel off and jeep suspended on jack stands.

i got mine for 60 bux.

 

If and when you get those bolts out do yourself a favor and go to ace and tab a bolt that is the same but with a normal hex head, at the least grade 8 by the way. It will make your life a tone easier in the future if and when you have to change them.

 

good link for U-joint / front assy .. do the axle U-joints while in there .. and check ball joints for play .. U-joints cost $15-20 ish each

http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-rep...nt-replacement


I have a 1-7/16" socket to remove hub axle nut .. not perfect fit .. but worked every time (costed about $35) .. that same socket worked perfect for the U-joint hammer removal method in that link


.. try to break axle nut free with wheel on (on ground) .. may have to remove /reinstall wheel 1st, have to get center wheel cap off & the cotter pin assy off .. then put tire back on


if you have fat tires, may be hard without a quality extension .. thus said .. last try i broke the extension .. had to drive to my tire guy, he impacted it quick

you can try loosening that nut .. in 4x4, while wheel off .. but if its frozen good .. dont wanna trash your splines .. not sure if thats possible, but maybe

2 different jeeps ... my right side axle nut came off easy .. leftt side were problems, took impact (as said above)

get a 3-claw gear puller to remove old hub assy .. the "claws" grab the hub inner-round-side, ratchet inward (puller bolt will push on axle shaft) .. claws pull hub off .. like $20 at advance .. good to have around for future too .. hub assy is not pressed into steer knuckle .. just rust frozen most likely, somewhat tough to pop loose .. you should clean / grease steer knuckle hole during swap .. makes it easier to align new hub assy on install .. Driveworks hub assy fit pretty tight .. Moog goes in smooth

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...rm=gear+puller

Autocraft puller is way cheaper .. but should locktite the bolts .. falls apart alot, mine has served well ! Unlike other autocraft tools I bought .. their torque ratchets suck ! broke 2



** A good spot to secure brake caliper is the control arm .. just remove 1 pad, will slide right over that arm safe .. but be careful with brake lines ... I used to hang caliper with wire .. to spring coil .. last time it broke while working .. glad I caught it when falling

A large C-clamp to compress brake pads is good to have also .. not sure what size exact, but fairly big .. you compress the pads toward each other, then release clamp .. will get tension off the pads/rotors .. remove some fluid from brake reservoir 1st .. otherwise will spill over .. that makes caliper way easier to remove .. dont forget to add fluid to Res when done . then motor on, pump brakes to get pressure back

once you do wheel hub assy & u-joint on 1 side .. its clockwork !

I Pb'd every bolt /thread in sight 1st too .. you will see the threads for hub assy when brake is off, spray them before removal, makes it easier

brush / clean bolt threads when apart .. all goes back on smooth with clean threads .. should be able to easily tighten brake / hub bolts if in place correct .. tighten each like a wheel .. hand tight .. then alternate tightening little by little

it will slowly work into correct placement .. I slightly grease the steer knuckle hub-hole too, so next time, it comes off easier

 

I want to double check since the car is notoriously standard and metric with no logic to it. The 12pt is a metric 13mm and not a 1/2"? If I'm going to buy one I'd like it to be correct.

 

mines a 13mm pointed .. worked on a '90 & '93 xj .. perfect fit

I think my brakes have 8mm hex .. im 99% on that .. been a couple weeks .. Im positive on the 13 though


*** Before you start anything, with jeep sittting on tires .. break free / loosen (just a pinch) - hub & brake bolts .. dont wanna get crushed, they could be pretty tight

seriously / safety wise .. Ive done this alot recently .. 1st thing I do with jeep / tires on ground

1. raise hood, drain a bit of brake fluid from res.
2. loosen (3) hub assy bolts (13mm pointed)
3. loosen (2) brake bolts (8mm hex)

then get axle nut loose (however that pans out 1st try) .. then raise front end to work safely

should be a cakewalk from then on .. so we hope