nuff said, well put.

 

If everyone read all 9 chapters of Dr. Haas' article in Motor Oil University over at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/, I believe there would be far fewer oil threads and most of those few oil threads would be very short (and not very entertaining).

My point is, the word "best", is highly subjective (usually it's ones opinion) and when a newbie reads an answer stating that something is "best", the newbie MAY take an opinion as FACT, and perpetuate that opinion as a fact over and over again on the internet. I'm not saying there were/are any intentional mis-representations/opinions stated in this thread.....I'm just saying we all need to be more careful about posting opinions vs facts.

 

I'm not gonna read all the madness (I stopped somewhere on page 4, and this post is in regards to the fellow saying 0w is extreme and blah blah blah), but how is 0w just for extreme temps? Many newer vehicles off the assembly line run a 0w20 in lieu of a 5w20. 5W30 is rarely used in cars anymore, trucks as well I believe with diesels being the exception. Hell, I called multiple dealerships/oil hotlines to confirm running 5w30 in my mother's '02 Escape would be ok since it was high mileage and she wanted to use Mobile 1 HM full syn. Everything else from their up uses 5w20, and as I said now some are using 0w20. I guess the entire planet and majority of the US are extreme temperate zones?

 

Use anything but penzoil, it's wax based.

 

 

I'm sorry, but I can't help but LOL.

I feel this picture sorta belongs here:

 

I'm gonna try and give djb a break from this insanity and post this. Please read in regards to Pennzoil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1826448


Quoted from the above link:

"See how these rumors evaporate when you think about them for about 5 seconds? "

 

Read my last few post on page 5-6 I explained the need for 0w in newer cars and also the cold temp things no need to retype the whole thing

Also please tell me.your kidding about the penzoil


Also the use for 20 oils are because with tighter tolerances in motors

1 heavy oil does not flow well or as well as a lighter oil
2 also with new motors and better design the overall wear on the oil is less (shearing being a major factor)
3 better designed oils make it possible for lower weights to be used, 5-10 years ago would you have ran 0w-20 in Texas when it was 120 degrees? I understand what the guy posted about new guys reading stuff and thinking it is fact that's why I try to only represent fact, oil is a massive subject few can grasp and I only make comments based on much reading and taking the variables in account, and I am.also reaffirmed when a man like dr haas comes to the same conclusions that I do and many more on Bitog, so again im not trying to start any lies or misinformation, just fact and many don't think about variables or different situations, and are quick to jump to defend them self and draw a argument out, such as this whole 0w is for extreme temps, when I said this it was pertaining to a 4.0l motor found in our jeeps, the only time you really need a 0w is for extreme cold, its very simple. compared to the cost of 5w30 why run 0w if its not needed, and I completely understand that 5w30 is not recommend for new cars, but who here has a 2012 jeep Cherokee? So for all purposes this whole discussion was supposed to be based on our jeeps, and I will defend my previous statements, and you will find them to be sound and correct in multiple facets,

 

20 oils are for better fuel eff.

you cant just say heavy oils dont flow as well without a link to SOME kind of data that covers at least all major brands, otherwise its just opinion

there are a lot of 'newer' motors that are junk right off the showroom floor. its the combustion eff. thats gotten better, ie: coatings, alloys, variable valve timing, ignition, direct injection...

its advances in oil tech. that lead to better/less oil consumption and wear...

 

actually, a lot of oils are napthenic base stock...

sythetics are usually a PAO base stock...

there are so many additives that are 'proprietary' and wont be listed (amsoil, royal purple to name two...) that it almost doesnt really matter what the base stock is anymore

 

I fail to see why you felt the need to explain to me what I already knew and pretty much posted?

 

Actually, I'm out. Done with this oil thread. How I got sucked into it is beyond me considering I despise "what oil to use" threads.

OP, run whatever oil you prefer and be happy. Simple as that. Otherwise, you're just gonna get a load of opinions tossed at you, and when people like djb, hank, and myself try to help dispell some of the bs, it's like training a whale to ride a bike.

With that said, I am out of this thread.

 

What/which auto mfgs say their motors NEED 0WXX oil? A newbie might interpret the word "need" as possibly meaning "requires". Which auto mfgs require synthetic oil be used in their motors?

AT least 7 years ago 'yota recommended 5W20 (in Texas, we had one).

Nowhere in Dr. Haas' articles, or any other articles, did I see the words "best all around" weight/vis oil or 10W30 "is obsolete" or 0W "is for extreme temps only".

All 0WXX oils are ONLY available in synthetic. There's no such animal as 0WXX conventional motor oil. Wonder if auto mfgs would prefer the use of synthetic oil in their motors? Not aware of any that require synthetic oil use.

Also, nowhere did I use the word lie or insinuate that anyone was lying.

 

Im on my phone but when I get back I can link tons of information stating that engine design and manufacturing greatly effect oil recommendations,

Old-e motors were designed to the best of an engineers and technology at the time and as life goes on things get better newer motors as an example have tighter tolerances between crank bearings than before, ( this is an overall example to keep the point simple) now if you have a big hole and a little hole what will 5w30 run thru better at operating temp? The big hole correct? Now take 0w20 now not only will it run thru the little hole better but also the big one, the little hole being tighter clearances between engine parts on new engines, it has been proven the mpg between 30 and 20 and minimal

 

Most NA synth oils are actually there group 3 base stock witch for all intensive purposes is "dino" oil but has been refined and cracked so well it performs the job as well at group 4/5 but at a cheaper price this is also on Bitog,