I guess that is why it is best to ask the clarifying questions first.What is considered low oil pressure. If your idling pressure says it is between 10 and 20 psi that is a little low but still safe. General rule of thumb- 10 psi for every 1000 rpm. The reason why I recommended replacing the pump is that you said you recently purchased it. Do you know how it was maintained? Michigan can be a rough enviornment on a vehicle. I agree with djb383- Get the oil pressure verified first and go from there.

 

alright thank you guys i will have the pressure checked, should i take it to a shop or just rent the gauge from an autozone or something, if i do it my self it would screw into the outlet for the pressure sensor correct?

 

How comfortable are u doing it yourself? Yes, the test gauge screws in where the factory sending unit is unscrews BUT, before u screw in the test gauge, make sure the internals of that port are clean/clear of crud. I believe cruiser54 has a post/thread about that port being plugged which if it is plugged it will send send a false/low pressure reading regardless of which sending unit is screwed in. A rookie at a shop might not know about the possible crud build-up at/in the port.

 

"I forgot" this....."I know" that....."All I remember" is something.....and we wonder how oil myths are perpetuated over the Internet?????...C'mon man.

Viscosity Index Improvers

As a lubricant basestock is subjected to increasing temperatures it tends to lose its viscosity. In other words, it thins out. This leads to decreased engine protection and a higher likelihood of metal to metal contact. Therefore, if this viscosity loss can be minimized, the probability of unnecessary engine wear will be reduced. This is where viscosity index (VI) improvers (sometimes called viscosity modifiers) come in.

VI improvers are polymers that expand and contract with changes in temperature. At low temperatures they are very compact and affect the viscosity of a lubricant very little. But, at high temperatures these polymers "explode" into much larger long-chain polymers which significantly increase the viscosity of their host lubricant. So, as the basestock loses viscosity with increases in temperature, VI improvers negate that viscosity drop by increasing their size.

The higher the molecular weight of the polymers used, the better the power of "thickening" within the lubricant. Unfortunately, an increase in molecular weight also leads to an inherent instability of the polymers themselves. They become much more prone to shearing within an engine. As these polymers are sheared back to lower molecular weight molecules, their effectiveness as a VI improver decreases.

Unfortunately, because petroleum basestocks are so prone to viscosity loss at high temperatures, high molecular weight polymers must be used. Since these polymers are more prone to shearing than lower molecular weight polymers, petroleum oils tend to shear back very quickly. In other words, they lose their ability to maintain their viscosity at high temperatures.

Synthetic basestocks, on the other hand, are much less prone to viscosity loss at high temperatures. Therefore, lower molecular weight polymers may be used as VI improvers. These polymers are less prone to shearing, so they are effective for a much longer period of time than the VI improvers used in petroleum oils. In other words, synthetic oils do not quickly lose their ability to maintain viscosity at high temperatures as petroleum oils do.

http://motoroilbible.com/motor-oil-b...st-chapter.php

 

"I wonder if a guy could remove the sender, poke and probe with a piece of wire into the brass 90* fitting, then fire off the engine with a shop rag/old towel over the fitting and let the pressure expel the clog using an observer to tell him when to kill the engine. Then clean out the tip of the sending unit and see whatcha got."

is this the cruiser54 post you were refering to? or another

 

Good read.....would u mind pointing out where it says 0WXX oils do not hold up as well as 10WXX or 5WXX?

 

More vii's are used in a 5w compared to a 10w, same as a 0 compared to a 5w.


With everything being equal, the less vii's they use the better, as explained in the above link.

 

If recommended oil change intervals are followed and not taken to extremes, VIIs and additive pkgs are a non-issue.

0WXX motor oils are only available in synthetic basestocks so saying 0WXX oils don't hold up as well as 10WXX or 5WXX oils is just incorrect info that doesn't need to be perpetuated on the Internet and in automotive forums. Synthetic oils and petroleum oils are not exactly equal.

Changing/using oil within the recommended guide lines makes most of that article a mute point whether one uses petroleum or synthetic basestock motor oil, but it's still a good read. Another good read at BITOG is Motor Oil 101-109 by Dr. A. E. Haas.

 

Sounds like it maybe.

 

As long as you follow your oic and stick to it any oil will perform they way you want it, 5w30 is the best all around oil if you ask me 10w30 is obsolete, and 0w are for extreme temps, or if you have a new di engine, anyways

5w30 hm will work fine, if you want more protection, you can run Rotella t-6, it is a 5w40 and it is approved for gas engines, it has more zddp, witch for our motors is a good thing, a heavy cleaning package, and is overall more robust due to the fact it is a hdeo oil, ( heavy duty engine oil) and works amazing in my jeep with a can of lubromoly in every oil change

 

ok, cleaned out the port, attached a mechanical oil pressure gauge 50 cold start idle, 11-14 hot idle, 40at 2000 rpms and 45 50 at 3000 rpms, i think this is still a little low but idk what do you guys think

also its a daily driver should i get the t adapter and install the mech gauge in the engine compartment permantly or no. if so where

 

What sources say 5W30 is the best all around oil?....what sources say 10W30 is obsolete?....what sources say 0W is for extreme temps or di engines? Do most people want less protection from a motor oil?...and that's why there's so many OTHER oil brands/weights besides Rotella 5W40? Why's so much zddp needed for the NON-heavy duty non-turbo Jeep 4.0L with only 8.8 compression and 60lbs of valve seat pressure?

Minimum safe oil pressure is 10 psi/1k rpm. Your numbers look reasonably good. Are your dash gauge readings close to the test gauge readings? Excessive oil pressure just robs horsepower. I'd just keep the test gauge handy and re-test occasionally.

 

in dash gauges are spot on, sounds good thank you for your help, it was much appreciated, im glad to have a website like this for a reference

 

go with royal purple for a brand

 

Well, since you mentioned dr. Haas, he said it, the only reason 10w30 is around is because people still buy it,
What overall sounds better,
A oil that has ok start up protection and ok cold flow?
Or and oil that has slightly better start up protection and excellent cold flow? (Pour points for technicality )

And both are the same weight while at operating temperatures, so what sounds better for the same money ?
Even if you lived in a warmer place that .5% better start up protection is worth it if the oil cost the same as 10w ,

And i never stated Rotella was a miracle oil, I stated, the 5w-40 holds up better in a hm motor, that is a fact, one it is a hdeo two as engines wear out they lose there tolerance, so they tend to shear oil , im not saying a decent dino( since no one makes a actual group 4/5 synth oil in america) oil wont work or hold up , but again for the money and protection its worth it, hell Rotella t-6 is cheaper than m1 hm, And uoa are nothing but excellent from Hd engines so I imagine it working spectacular In my 4.0

Next our motors are flat tappet, they were designed when zddp levels were in the 1500ppm now most have less than 700 most the time, because material and engine design dictate less will work, so again whys skimp on your motor, ? It was designed that way for a reason and its not costing you more, also slop ( from lose tolerance on a worn motor) creates a friction base that a newer motor does not, thus the zddp aids in wear protection, make sense?

0w are for extreme cold, and that is obvious, and newer di, hell most new Engines, why? The same reason manufactures don't recommend 10w anything, why settle for less basically, its all common sense,