What oil should i use?
Also! I forgot on the oil bottle for Ow they suggest it for extreme cold weather, they are also a good source since they designed the oil haha, royal purple is to much money for the same protection you can get from m1 or pennzoil
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Well, since you mentioned dr. Haas, he said it, the only reason 10w30 is around is because people still buy it,
What overall sounds better,
A oil that has ok start up protection and ok cold flow?
Or and oil that has slightly better start up protection and excellent cold flow? (Pour points for technicality )
And both are the same weight while at operating temperatures, so what sounds better for the same money ?
Even if you lived in a warmer place that .5% better start up protection is worth it if the oil cost the same as 10w ,
And i never stated Rotella was a miracle oil, I stated, the 5w-40 holds up better in a hm motor, that is a fact, one it is a hdeo two as engines wear out they lose there tolerance, so they tend to shear oil , im not saying a decent dino( since no one makes a actual group 4/5 synth oil in america) oil wont work or hold up , but again for the money and protection its worth it, hell Rotella t-6 is cheaper than m1 hm, And uoa are nothing but excellent from Hd engines so I imagine it working spectacular In my 4.0
Next our motors are flat tappet, they were designed when zddp levels were in the 1500ppm now most have less than 700 most the time, because material and engine design dictate less will work, so again whys skimp on your motor, ? It was designed that way for a reason and its not costing you more, also slop ( from lose tolerance on a worn motor) creates a friction base that a newer motor does not, thus the zddp aids in wear protection, make sense?
0w are for extreme cold, and that is obvious, and newer di, hell most new Engines, why? The same reason manufactures don't recommend 10w anything, why settle for less basically, its all common sense,
What overall sounds better,
A oil that has ok start up protection and ok cold flow?
Or and oil that has slightly better start up protection and excellent cold flow? (Pour points for technicality )
And both are the same weight while at operating temperatures, so what sounds better for the same money ?
Even if you lived in a warmer place that .5% better start up protection is worth it if the oil cost the same as 10w ,
And i never stated Rotella was a miracle oil, I stated, the 5w-40 holds up better in a hm motor, that is a fact, one it is a hdeo two as engines wear out they lose there tolerance, so they tend to shear oil , im not saying a decent dino( since no one makes a actual group 4/5 synth oil in america) oil wont work or hold up , but again for the money and protection its worth it, hell Rotella t-6 is cheaper than m1 hm, And uoa are nothing but excellent from Hd engines so I imagine it working spectacular In my 4.0
Next our motors are flat tappet, they were designed when zddp levels were in the 1500ppm now most have less than 700 most the time, because material and engine design dictate less will work, so again whys skimp on your motor, ? It was designed that way for a reason and its not costing you more, also slop ( from lose tolerance on a worn motor) creates a friction base that a newer motor does not, thus the zddp aids in wear protection, make sense?
0w are for extreme cold, and that is obvious, and newer di, hell most new Engines, why? The same reason manufactures don't recommend 10w anything, why settle for less basically, its all common sense,
What's the difference between "ok start-up protection" and "slightly better start-up protection"?????
I've said numerous times the lower 1st number is better and but if u want a thicker oil at operating temp and don't mind the extra expense of synthetic, get 0W40......it's the same vis as 15W40 at operating temp but flows much better at below normal operating temp.
HDEO is not an API rating/classification.....HDEO comes from a marketing/advertising dept.
ZDDP has been used for many years as a last ditch effort to protect as much as possible from metal-to-metal contact mainly because it's cheap. It also polutes so zddp levels have been reduced and replaced with other additives (boron for one) that provide just as good protection and polute less.
Why do u say 0W is for extreme temps? Most new cars, even those sold in Florida, have a 0WXX or 5Wxx recommendation from the factory.
Originally Posted by djb383
Does Dr. Haas say 10W30 is obsolete? I believe Dr. Haas says the 1st number is more important than the second.
What's the difference between "ok start-up protection" and "slightly better start-up protection"?????
I've said numerous times the lower 1st number is better and but if u want a thicker oil at operating temp and don't mind the extra expense of synthetic, get 0W40......it's the same vis as 15W40 at operating temp but flows much better at below normal operating temp.
HDEO is not an API rating/classification.....HDEO comes from a marketing/advertising dept.
ZDDP has been used for many years as a last ditch effort to protect as much as possible from metal-to-metal contact mainly because it's cheap. It also polutes so zddp levels have been reduced and replaced with other additives (boron for one) that provide just as good protection and polute less.
Why do u say 0W is for extreme temps? Most new cars, even those sold in Florida, have a 0WXX or 5Wxx recommendation from the factory.
As for the Rotella, its still cheaper than 0w40 and when it comes to cold flow between 5w-0w the start up protection is down to .5% even if that, and Rotella is cheaper so it is cost effective , and I use hdeo just as a term and I know a name has nothing to do with api ratings etc, but there are hdeo that are rated only for stationary diesels etc that's why I made a comment about it being api / classed for gas engines,
And in my last post I explained why the factory suggest 0w for most there cars,
One since material and engine design has come a long way clearances and engine specs have gotten tighter were 10w will not flow well enough while cold and cause excessive wear
Two
Much like my self and most people figured out, why spend the exact same amount of money on a oil that does a less than ok job? Might as well choose a 0w over a 10w common sense applys for that one,
And if you lived in Florida you can get away with 5w in you jeep easy
Now if you lived in the artic ( as n example ) im damn sure you would use 0w , because 0w flows better at extreme cold,
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Maybe my point is being misunderstood. Where/what says 5W30 is "best all around", "10W30 is obsolete" and "0WXX is for extreme temps"? One of the best signatures on the forum is tjwalker's and I hope he doesn't mind me quoting him....."without data, all u have is opinion". I'm looking for data that supports your statements that "5W30 is best all around", "10W30 is obsolete" and "0W is for extreme temps".
Last edited by djb383; Feb 4, 2012 at 04:45 PM.
Originally Posted by djb383
Maybe my point is being misunderstood. Where/what says 5W30 is "best all around", "10W30 is obsolete" and "0WXX is for extreme temps"? One of the best signatures on the forum is tjwalker's and I hope he doesn't mind me quoting him....."without data, all u have is opinion". I'm looking for data that supports your statements that "5W30 is best all around", "10W30 is obsolete" and "0W is for extreme temps".
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Are u confusing motor oil API classifications (earlier classifications are obsolete, SA thru SH) with oil weight/viscosity?
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm
http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Edmonton
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i think youre both saying the same thing...all the data you need to figure out that 0w or 5w is better than 10w, is available at your local computer screen. Its sounds like youre both arguing the same point.lol
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
No, not at all.....I'm questioning the statements that were made saying that "5W30 is best all around", that "10W30 is obsolete" and "0W is for extreme temp". There's no weight/vis that's "best all around" or "obsolete" and 0WXX can be "used in any ambient temp".
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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CF Veteran
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From: Blue Springs, MO
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Laredo

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
I am still at work,
So im on my phone
My discussion was that 5w30 works better in a variety of situations compared to 10w30
Not to sound ridiculous but ill use extreme examples again,
If you live in Florida, and your taking a trip to northern canada in january, would you rather run 0w/5w or 10w? And your expecting -45 degree weather?
Im sure you would agree that 5w would be a better choice, and that given multiple situations 5w will work better compared to 10w for the same amount of money...period
That would be obsolete in technical terms, think of 5w as an ipod and 10w as a cd player, both work , one is better in multiple situations, and that makes a cd player obsolete
So im on my phone
My discussion was that 5w30 works better in a variety of situations compared to 10w30
Not to sound ridiculous but ill use extreme examples again,
If you live in Florida, and your taking a trip to northern canada in january, would you rather run 0w/5w or 10w? And your expecting -45 degree weather?
Im sure you would agree that 5w would be a better choice, and that given multiple situations 5w will work better compared to 10w for the same amount of money...period
That would be obsolete in technical terms, think of 5w as an ipod and 10w as a cd player, both work , one is better in multiple situations, and that makes a cd player obsolete
I know 0w can be used in 130 degree weather but it is overkill and 10 times more expensive than 5w so the only reason to buy it, is if
The manufacturer recommends it, and they recommend it because of engine design, tighter tolerances in the motor inhibit cold flow for heavier oils, period, no if and or buts
Or two you live in a cold climate, simple
My point is that 5w30 will be suitable for most the people on this forum and will cost the same as 10w,
I run 5w 40 in my jeep because it has so many miles and heavier oils hold up to shearing better from all the slop in the motor, and a hdeo like Rotella works amazing and that has been proven by Blackstone labs
The manufacturer recommends it, and they recommend it because of engine design, tighter tolerances in the motor inhibit cold flow for heavier oils, period, no if and or buts
Or two you live in a cold climate, simple
My point is that 5w30 will be suitable for most the people on this forum and will cost the same as 10w,
I run 5w 40 in my jeep because it has so many miles and heavier oils hold up to shearing better from all the slop in the motor, and a hdeo like Rotella works amazing and that has been proven by Blackstone labs
So to answer your question
5w30 will will overall meet or exceed everyones requirements,
Witch makes it overall a better oil,
Witch makes 10w not needed
And when something that is not needed is obsolete like 8 tracs
And 0w is suggested by all oil companies for extreme cold
5w30 will will overall meet or exceed everyones requirements,
Witch makes it overall a better oil,
Witch makes 10w not needed
And when something that is not needed is obsolete like 8 tracs
And 0w is suggested by all oil companies for extreme cold





just kidding.