What are the most common culprits of XJ not starting and/or leaving you stranded?http
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
What are the most common culprits of XJ not starting and/or leaving you stranded?http
In your experience, what are the most common culprits that cause the XJ to not start and/or break down on side of the highway?
I'd like to make a list, in proper order.
Please don't ask why. B/c I just want to know.
Looking to drop some money into the XJ.
It's been running like a champ and has not failed me, and I want to keep it that way.
Maybe I'll replace some weak links before I move the XJ into full-time winter duty.
- Bad ground?
- Overheat?
- Fuel pump?
- CPK? MAP? CPS? TPS? ICV?
- Starter
- Alternator
- Serpentine belt
- Battery.
- Neutral Safety Switch (NSS)
- Ignition Switch
- Leaking Gas Tank
I'd like to make a list, in proper order.
Please don't ask why. B/c I just want to know.
Looking to drop some money into the XJ.
It's been running like a champ and has not failed me, and I want to keep it that way.
Maybe I'll replace some weak links before I move the XJ into full-time winter duty.
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; 12-03-2013 at 08:02 PM.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
4 good ones. I added them to the main list.
I have a brand new belt and battery (and battery cables)
But, maybe I'd like to install a new starter and alternator...
I have a brand new belt and battery (and battery cables)
But, maybe I'd like to install a new starter and alternator...
#7
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Model: Cherokee
If you have the OEM units and they are working properly, leave them. None of the "remanufactured" units approach OEM quality or reliability.
My OEM starter made it 227K miles before failing, OEM alternator is still working at 230K+. Good luck getting that sort of life out of any of the FLAPS rebuilds. I've had those fail after 1 year. Or less.
My OEM starter made it 227K miles before failing, OEM alternator is still working at 230K+. Good luck getting that sort of life out of any of the FLAPS rebuilds. I've had those fail after 1 year. Or less.
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#8
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
I wanted to replace the radiator, but it sounded a bit too complicated with all the quick-disconnect stuff and the tranny line stuff.
Once I read about people hacksawing cooler lines apart, I knew radiator was over my head.
The coolant is bright green and was flushed by the PO.
It has a new water pump and thermostat.
Once I read about people hacksawing cooler lines apart, I knew radiator was over my head.
The coolant is bright green and was flushed by the PO.
It has a new water pump and thermostat.
#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
If you have the OEM units and they are working properly, leave them. None of the "remanufactured" units approach OEM quality or reliability.
My OEM starter made it 227K miles before failing, OEM alternator is still working at 230K+. Good luck getting that sort of life out of any of the FLAPS rebuilds. I've had those fail after 1 year. Or less.
My OEM starter made it 227K miles before failing, OEM alternator is still working at 230K+. Good luck getting that sort of life out of any of the FLAPS rebuilds. I've had those fail after 1 year. Or less.
I guess I will leave them alone.
#10
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've only owned two jeeps and one I put over 120k miles on personally and it never left me stranded, not once....
but the most likely on your list would be, batt, belt..
but the most likely on your list would be, batt, belt..
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Anything belt driven seizing up will mess you up pretty badly.
Overheating is generally bad (terminal on 0331 heads...) but can be avoided with proper maintenance.
Unaddressed bad driveline vibes will explode the transfer case. Again should be dealt with long before it gets to this point.
Really the only random failures that are a matter of time and luck and not the fault of improper maintenance are electric and electronic. CPS will mess you up pretty good, but so will the ASD relay failing (this is what isn't engaged when the CPS dies)
Overheating is generally bad (terminal on 0331 heads...) but can be avoided with proper maintenance.
Unaddressed bad driveline vibes will explode the transfer case. Again should be dealt with long before it gets to this point.
Really the only random failures that are a matter of time and luck and not the fault of improper maintenance are electric and electronic. CPS will mess you up pretty good, but so will the ASD relay failing (this is what isn't engaged when the CPS dies)
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Do the normal maintenance items and don't neglect it... The vehicle will run almost forever... Many folks fail to change fluids like the diff oil, transfercase oil, trans oil, brake fluid, antifreeze on the normal scheduled times... Things like lubing hidges, greasing zerk fittings, giving it a tune-up and new filters often get neglected as well... I bought my XJ new and have run it up to 190,000 miles now... It still has all the OEM stuff except for the thermostat and hoses (belt too) and it still runs like the day it was new... No loss in power or fuel mileage either... I also agree that the OEM stuff is much better than the crap found in parts stores...
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Do the normal maintenance items and don't neglect it... The vehicle will run almost forever... Many folks fail to change fluids like the diff oil, transfercase oil, trans oil, brake fluid, antifreeze on the normal scheduled times... Things like lubing hidges, greasing zerk fittings, giving it a tune-up and new filters often get neglected as well... I bought my XJ new and have run it up to 190,000 miles now... It still has all the OEM stuff except for the thermostat and hoses (belt too) and it still runs like the day it was new... No loss in power or fuel mileage either... I also agree that the OEM stuff is much better than the crap found in parts stores...
'now back to your regular programing'
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Radiator replacement is real easy, BTW. Just get the disconnect tools. 20 bucks at Autozone. I don't even remember using them when I did my radiator. but it sounds like yours may be in good shape.
Radiator replacement is real easy, BTW. Just get the disconnect tools. 20 bucks at Autozone. I don't even remember using them when I did my radiator. but it sounds like yours may be in good shape.