So obviously a 340,xxx mile 1988 Renix engine isn't going to pristine. My engine has a slight head gasket leak, nothing that effects anything but makes some engine compartment mess. The CCV elbows leak, the C101 connector could use a complete overhaul, and sometimes it idles weird either low to stalling or starts with a high idle. My question is, what should I do with it? This summer I am planning on fixing these issues, but what should I do? Should I have it rebuilt? I've tried to clean the grounds and c101 connector but still idle issues and gunk deep in the connector. It hasn't had any over heating issues that I know of, though I should flush the system at some point. The engine runs fine other than those issues, gets good mileage and handles the eight 300 mile trips to school/home a year. I plan on keeping my jeep for as long as I can, making sure the engine runs like how it should and without being a grease mess when I do touch it. It's been running the roads for the past 26 years, I'm looking to drive it for at least another 26 years if possible.

 

Bedt advice i can give, and alot others will is to search this on google "cruiser54 renix tips cherokeeforum" follow all of his advice step by step. With 340k miles i would get real close with my tq wrench checking tightness of all my suspension bolts. Id service all fluids and replace that head gasket before your minor problem becomes a major one. Also do a proper tune up, plugs/wires/rotor and button. Make sure you change your diff fluids as well. They are overlooked quite often. Dont be scared to flush the trans either.

 

See post 27 in my link below and eliminate that troublesome C101 before doing anything else.

Which of my "Tips" have you done so far?

 

I saw that, seems to be pretty intimidating, though I have done numerous electrical jobs. I have done 1,2,3, and refreshed the ground on the dipstick/block. Also another issue I have is that the cruise control stopped working, once I was cleaning/fixing the wires under the battery and it worked again for a while.

 

I just did the C101 elimination. Pretty simple. Just take your time and you will be good.

 

I'm going to retighten my valve cover to make sure that's not the actual leak, and will be deleting the c101 connector in a couple weeks when I have time. How long did it take you?

 

About an hour give or take a few mins. Took my time, redid anything that looked remotely questionable. I recommend it to anyone with an '87 or '88.

 

Check for a broken/cracked vacuum line along the fender wall near the battery. I snapped one pretty easily just by bumping it when I reinstalled my battery tray. My cruise doesn't work either. I haven't had a chance to address it yet, but first step will be to replace all the missing and broken lines!

 

So i'm going to work on the electronics soon after my finals. After looking at the engine over today, seems that there is more of a leak then I thought, even though I don't burn/loss any noticeably more oil than average. I believe that my head has slight leak and the oil pan gasket is leaking as well just from the block mess. I'm thinking I'll have a shop rebuild my 4.0 and patch the one rust spot while they have it as well. Reason for rebuild rather than cheap new 4.0 is that renix engines seem to be harder to find with low miles and I don't want the hassle of dealing with switching over to a HO. Does anyone know the average costs of a rebuild? And as a side note, do some states require the exhaust to hang out the back or side of the vehicle? My tailpipe rattles my rear right shock causing it to leak so I'm thinking of just having it cut at the rear hanger before the shock but I don't know how that will effect the emissions testing.

 

HO swap is easy ya know.

 

But the wiring harness and what not, won't that be a headache?

 

Hell, no. Ever read this?

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.


Revised 03/28/13

 

Also I won't be doing this, looking for a shop to do it all.

 

There's a guy around by me selling a 90' 168,000 miles renix engine for just $100 with everything but the wiring harness. Even has a new filter (won't use obviously), new distrubtor cap and wires, and the motor mounts. My question is, if i bought this, would it be cheaper to have a shop rebuild that engine and toss it in when they're done rather than leave my jeep there and have them put mine together?

 

On a similar note. I have the issue of to fix the thing forever, or to plan on moving on. Below are pics of cracks on the uni-body at the rear corner and ALSO farther forward at the passenger door. Parked right the hatch will hit the tail-light on the 90. My 84 has cracks, but is not as bad. All could be welded, if it were stripped bare, repainted ect. Point being, I would be happily to invest, if it were not falling apart! I'm not noticing any issues with blow-by. 279K, it must have some when I'm gassen it.