slowpoe

I just got a 96 XJ w/ a 5.5RE short arm lift + 2" spacers on Front & 2" blocks on the rear & The fenders are trimmed .I just got some 35x12.5x15 LTB Swampers and want to make sure I get the right back spacing on the rims . I would like to get some 15x8 Crager Soft 8s.

Im just trying to avoid rubbing when flexed out as much as possible & also be able to steer sharp.
Also are there any high steer kits for XJ's.

Any info would be great as I am new to this JEEP stuff
I just sold my 85 Toyota and converted over to XJ's & Im reading as much as possible

nick_n_ii

4" back space would be fine.

And I be leave that is the standard for Soft 8's as well..

double_ot_xj

since your tires are 12.5 let me make 2 suggestions. i have the crager soft 8's 4" bs and 10.5 " tires. i am close to rubbing at full turn about 3/4" till rub. i would suggest:

1. getting 3.5" bs.
2. getting 10" wide rims.

broncofire75

Dont get 10" wide wheels. Since your wanting LTBs your prolly into rock crawling. Id get some Soft 8s in about 3.25" BS. Go to Summit or call them and order some. Theyll be special order but no extra cost I dont believe. My buddy got some in 2" BS.

Im on about 7" lift and 3.75" BS and my Toyos rub my LAs. SO Id get something around that or less.

High steer kits are made by Teraflex, Rustys, and Treks I believe.

BigBCherokee

i just parked my 85 toyota and got a 94 sport for a more family friendly extra vehicle/weekend wheeler.........but i kept the 85......future rock buggy,,,,,,come on lottery! lol

slowpoe

Thanks for the info guys. I live right by Summit Racing so that is were Im getting the rims from. I may go with a 3" BS then ,just to make sure that I can steer sharp in the tight woods of Wellsville when flexed & be more stable on the hills with a wider stance. Im sure this may be harder on the wheel bearings & ball joints but I will probably only put about 3K a year on the road.
Thanks for the heads up on the high steer kits .I have a Allpro kit here for a toyota for sale to use the funds on the XJ

BigBCherokee I was into Toyota's big time & it made me sick to sell it.Never thought I would own a JEEP but it was just to hard to find a 4runner around here that was not rusted out.
I to got the XJ for its family freindly fetures . It will be hard for me to adjust to the XJ because of all the exrea body to get past trees & rocks.
The yota had a steel flatbed so once the doors were past it did not matter what happened. I will be building some sort of exo on the XJ for body protection. I just hope I dont start snappin axles as they are not as tough as Toyota axles & I had 33's on it & a 4 cyl & now 35's with a 6 cyl & alot more weight & the front locked . I will see how it goes as I have not took the XJ out yet.

Any more advice on the BS would be great Thanks agian

offroadnut36

super swamper makes 35x12.5 LTBs now?

ktmracer419

just some advice, not sure if this jeep is built yet.

but you will hate life with 7.5" of lift on shortarms. not just the horrendous ride, but wheeling too. it's not a flex issue, but the issue of coming to an obstacle and your suspension not wanting to compress because your control arms are at a 90* angle or more to the obstacle.

2" blocks will put ALOT of stress on the re leaf packs. I have never run blocks and have had bad luck with the rubicon express leafs surviving for me, within a few trips they have sagged to about half their original height and are a nice "s" shape.

also, 7.5" is alot of height for an xj on 35's.

slowpoe

They just came out with them about 2 months ago I guess.I actually got them used & the guy said that he got the 1st ones from National Tire & wheel . I saw them on craigs list & thought it was a miss print until I got on Interco's web site. He sold them because he sold the Toyota truck that they were on (at least I hope thats why) I havent had them mounted & balanced yet They are $193 each new & weigh 67Lbs w/24/32 tread depth & tread width is only 9.8" They seem much narrower than the 13.5 Toyo MT's I have now.

I will get some pics up when I get my rims

slowpoe

KTM racer 419 Hey I have a 98 300EXC great bike so we have some things in common

The arm angles are not bad at all because of the RE drop brakets(You can look at pics in my other post = What do I need to do to run 35s with 5.5"lift)

Anyway I have measured to see how much lift I actually have ,7.5 in the front so there is no sagging there even with the 12K Milemarker winch
And in the back it has 6" lift so the RE Leafs must have settled 1.5"

I will be using this jeep to climb steep hills & rock ledge waterfall type obsticals & general tight trails with alot of trees & rocks to get around (tight corners) So I need as much flex as possible for all the wash outs & as tight as steering as possable & needs to be stable for off camber hills & sturdy enough to handle rock ledges without axle rap & hopping.And keep it riding nice to get to each area without getting beat in the seat. I no Im not asking for much But my Toyota truck Did very well & Im looking for the same out of this XJ

Please tell me what I need to do to this thing ,Here are some of my Ideas

Get rid of the blocks & have the leaf packs re-arched (I want a nice & alot of flex so I do not no if this would be good.
What rear leaf packs are kown to work good.I put 63"long chevys on the yota & they worked great & no axle wrap
Maybe drop brakets for the leaf springs you tell me

& should the front be lifted more than the back as I should probably ditch the spacer on the front too

Let me know how to make this thing a mean trail machine

here are some pics

muddeprived

If you have drop brackets then you are fine. You should also be fine with 3.75" backspaced wheels. Don't go TOO wide or you put too much stress on your bearings.

broncofire75

Are those blocks welded to the leafs? Plz tell me they arent...


Im at 6.5" lift and I clear the 35s fine. Im actually glad that I didnt go any higher and when I do a bumper and winch itll drop it a bit because I do clear them so good. I had to bumpstop like crazy in the rear though. 4" of tubing on top of the u-bolt plates and Im good to go but Im only at like 6" in the rear.

Take the blocks out(if you can withough cutting them out) and put a 1-1.5" shackle in the rear. Or some shackle relocation boxes to get the reaer to ride better and flex a heck of a lot better.

muddeprived

It does look welded but to the overload leaf so that's not TOO bad, but still a big block kills your springs.

double_ot_xj

looks like you need a front pinion seal job bad!!! that things bleading like a bull in spain

slowpoe

The blocks are aluminum & what looks to be welded is the degree shim with mud on it.
I will take the blocks out & get the springs re-arched unless I here of a better spring to use.I already have a 1.25" shackle lift. So I do not no how to get the extra 1" i want on top of the 5.5"

For the front I will get rid of the home made spacer & put a 1.5" normal one in unless I here a better Idea . I want a little extra lift because I will be adding weight with some sort of exo or roll cage & sliders.

The front is getting torn down for new axle seals (right one leaks) pinion seal (leaking) and to fix the RD30 ARB locker that had the bolts back out like there known for doing so I am going to try red locktite paste or tack welding them. Also have to replace the right front unit bearing $$$$$$

Seems like alot off work & money but I got it for $3K and it has $8K in reciepts in parts .

I just want to get it set up right for what I will be useing it for