I have a 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4x4 4.0

I've done quite a few searches and found a few that seemed to be the same issue Im having but none of them posted how they solved it

My headlights work but Im having trouble with my park/running lights. If I start from the off position and pull the switch half way before it engages there is a sweet spot that the parking/running lights come on, but when its pulled all the way to where it clicks into place the parking lights shut off. Then again when i get half way to the headlight ON position there is another sweet spot and the running lights come on but when the switch gets closer to the ON position the running lights turn off pulling further to the ON position the headlights will come one but the running lights dont come on.

I figured i just had a bad switch so i replaced it, then figured maybe the replacement was bad, replaced it again. There has been no change Any one got any ideas?

 

Is the ****/shaft fully seated in the switch? That's all I can think of to check.

 

as far as i can tell. if i try to pull it all the way out the locking pin keeps it in the switch

 

Just replace it ....

 

I replaced it 2 times already its my third switch. Is there a way to test a switch to see if it is good?

 

Is the plug melted to it ?

 

I haven't had time to get into this so I bandaged it. I threw in a switch and jumped it to one of my corner markers. So, that I would have running lights until I could really dive into it again.

To answer your question one of the wire connectors is melted (from a previous headlight issue). The wire in question is power in from the distribution box (red with white tracer). At the time i cleaned up best I could. I'm still getting power to the switch as I have headlights and parking lights in those sweet spot locations between switch engages. Also, the plug doesn't heat up so I'm assuming that there is no resistance issues.

I guess what I'm wondering is there a relay or something else between my the switch itself and the running lights that could be causing my issue? Or is there a good way to test the switch to rule it out?

 

I fried several switches before I finally figured out that the stock wiring sucks. You need to upgrade your lights wiring harness (either buy it or make it yourself) and put your headlights through a relay. That way only a minimal amout of power goes through the switch and wiring. Also, I took a bunch of female spade connectors when this first happend and I cut out the melted connector. This is one of the few problems that just wasn't built good enough from the factory.

 

You are absolutely dead on right.