Pauls_Workshop

Hi, I'm new here but had a technical question. My 1994 Cherokee Sport 4.0L Auto 130k miles with the 2 low and 4 wheel drive hi lever is doing something weird. In 2 low mode, it steers fine and behaves normally. When using 4 Hi mode alot this last winter, now in the parking lot, when I turn the steering wheel, it will only allow turning a little bit, like 20 degrees, and then the suv will "Lock Up" and will NOT allow any more turn angle. If I straighten out the wheel, it is normal. Or when driving it on the road, seems normal.

Now I know about wheel hop a bit in 4wd hi mode, but this is severe. The suv will not turn at all and it STOPS dead in its tracks beyond about 20 degrees steering wheel rotation. Parking lot maneuvers. Also, makes no difference if the lot was covered fully in ice when doing this or clear, same thing. 2wd mode normal and allows full normal turning. What things do I need to look for or do next? It literally backs up or turns about as good as a semi trailer or huge camper or something now in 4wd mode.

Note: Only thing else to mention. The driver side rear leaf springs have a few of the leaf springs cracked and split. Haven't got to that yet. Just a little more bouncy over bumps on that wheel. I don't think this has anything to do with it, and it never used to have this steering lock issue with the leafs this way for years, but thought I'd mention. Thx - Paul

Rollincoal420

First off, do u mean 2hi? 2lo would require a 2lo kit installed in the tcase.

2nd off, its doing it because ur in 4wd on hard surface. Dont do it again. Thats a good way to blow something up in the front axlt, drive shaft, or tcase.


It does this because in 4wd both front and rear axles are locked together. Like a spool or welded axle diff. 50/50 split front to rear. All the time. The problem is when u turn, all 4 wheels need to spin at different speeds. In the winter and ice, the tires that need to spin slower(inside of the turn) can slip because, well, its ice and slick.

Rollincoal420

Also, FIX THAT LEAFSPRING. Thats just asking for disaster

93gc40

Do not use the 4hi or 4lo on pavement. Things will bindup and break.. If you have a 242 transfercase the bezel will have a 4FT position, this is OK for the pavement. If you have the 242 and are binding up you have bad Ujoints or other axel/steering issues going. A bumpy/jerky feel, and binding while turning are signs of bad U-joint/cv in all 4 wheel drive jeeps.

Demonoid369

:facepalm:

Pauls_Workshop

OK, I may have used the wrong terms there. There is 2 wheel drive mode. Normal mode. And there is 4 wheel drive mode, which is also high. There is also a 4 wheel drive mode which is low. I'm not talking about 4wheel drive low. I'm talking about normal 4 wheel drive mode which is also high. To clear that up.

From up above:"It does this because in 4wd both front and rear axles are locked together. Like a spool or welded axle diff. 50/50 split front to rear. All the time. The problem is when u turn, all 4 wheels need to spin at different speeds. In the winter and ice, the tires that need to spin slower(inside of the turn) can slip because, well, its ice and slick."

I understand all that. I only use the 4 wheel drive when the roads are full of snow or ice. You didn't read my full post up above. When the lot is covered in ice, slick, it does this. When it is not it will also do this (just as a test - I don't use 4wd unless necessary). It is not normal. It locks up completely and will not allow turning at all. That is not normal. I've had this Jeep for about 8 years. It never used to do this. So something isn't right now.

"If you have the 242 and are binding up you have bad Ujoints or other axel/steering issues going. A bumpy/jerky feel, and binding while turning are signs of bad U-joint/cv in all 4 wheel drive jeeps." OK, this might be what I need help on. The odd thing is in 2wd mode, it doesn't do this at all, so that part of the chain is fine. It is only in the 4wheel mode with the selector lever. So what specific parts and where to check out further? And how to check out? It would either have to be something only active when in 4wd mode or else very badly aggravated in 4wd mode to not show up in 2wd mode. Some diagrams or such might help me. I'm not a mechanic so not super familiar with the chain of parts involved. I understand what a u-joint or cv is though. Are there things under the car I should be lubing with grease or something? if so what? Also, the suv is fully stock. I don't know what is in it yet. Just Cherokee Sport 4.0l auto 1994. Has the lever with the 3 positions on it. First normal 2wd, 2nd is the 4wheel drive high, 3rd is the 4wd low. thanks all! - Paul

sycoglitch

subbed for entertaining purposes.

Unless some mods were done to your jeep. You either have the 231 or 242 TC.

231-2hi/4hi/n/4lo
242-2hi/4hi/4hi ft/n/4lo

231TC, if there is no wheel slippage, the front tires will drive in the direction they're facing and the rear tires will try to drive straight. Hence the binding and locking up. You may have a bad u joint in the axle that can cause some issues

cruiser54

A complete drivetrain inspection is in order. I call it "noggin pokin".

The only way you're gonna find what you're looking for is to GO LOOK!

Around the Jeep that is. In these parts, we call it "noggin pokin".

That's where you use your God given senses to inspect YOUR Jeep for problems. We can only provide you with guidance as to where to poke your noggin.

There's no Silver Bullet cure you're gonna find from a keyboard, mouse and monitor.


The u-joints on either side of the front axle could be bad.

Have you checked the fluid level and condition in the diffs, trans, transfer case, brake master yet?

Rogue4x4

Cruiser makes a good point....

Pauls_Workshop

Thanks guys. 231 definitely as there is no 4 hi ft thing.

Cruiser, I'm cool with noggin and pokin if I'm capable, but need to know what to poke at as most likely list of candidates to be poked! I'm not completely useless as I have changed the valve cover gasket (with a helper) recently and did the repair on the shifter starting lock switch under the car when it failed to start in the past. i've also changed an alternator before but that was on a Subaru which is pretty easy there! Now here I'm learning that I really gotta get newer injectors and get those in the car for better gas mileage. Not sure if I should try that one myself or not though.

I can say that nothing has been lubed underneath the suv for at least 8 years. So anything that can be lubed probably should be lubed. Those u-joints would be most likely candidates. Brakes are in good shape and recently reworked. Trans fluid could use a change pretty soon. Diff fluid too. Can the stock u-joints next to each front wheel be easily lubed with a grease gun? Or is that difficult? Other spots to lube when I'm down there? thx! - Paul

sycoglitch

Negative. Those get changed. Quiet easy if the axle nut is rusted along with every other nut and bolt. Look for dislocation. Put on jack stands and check ball joints and such as will

Pauls_Workshop

syco, ok, can't lube those u-joints then. I can say there is general corrosion in many spots under the suv. I did see the wheel u-joints when I looked there last weekend and one side was pretty badly corroded, the other not as bad. Is loosening and replacing those u-joints at the front wheels an occasional DIY job or more like a shop/mechanic job to do? I just have some jack stands and a basic tool kit. I can handle simple, easy things with a predetermined step by step roadmap to follow! - Paul

sycoglitch

Its not a hard job to be honest. But its like me saying i get 17mpg cause i drive different than you. Google changing axle u joints jeep xj and watch the video and make that decision. Get some Mobil 1 grease and a grease gun and grease the joints.

Rollincoal420

If u wheel, u should do ur part and learn how to change these out yourself. U are definitely going to want someone to walk you through it. If u notice that "corrosion" and none of these parts have been off in 8 years, most likely its going to b hell getting the axle nut, and the 3 hub bearing bolts loose, as well as getting the unit bearing out of the knuckle. When it goes back together, everything/everywhere it was seized, hit with a wire brush and anti-sieze. That way next time u have to remove the axle shaft, you can have both shafts on the ground in 30min, with hand tools.

Demonoid369

X2 I'm betting he's driving around in 4wd on Dry ground and probably gonna grenade that transfer case.