Valve cover off. Look normal?
03-03-2013, 10:02 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Valve cover off. Look normal?
So I took the valve cover off my 2001 xj. It was leaking a bit and I was hearing a noise that sounded like it was in the rocker area.
Pic is here https://www.cherokeeforum.com/member...87624-rockers/
Does this look normal to you? 93k miles.
Since I was hearing a noise I was considering inspecting pushrods. Also since I was having oil pressure issues was considering running with cover off to see if all rods emitted oil. Any ideas for splash guard? I saw a video where one guy put paper clip ends down the holes but not too sure I like that.
Pic is here https://www.cherokeeforum.com/member...87624-rockers/
Does this look normal to you? 93k miles.
Since I was hearing a noise I was considering inspecting pushrods. Also since I was having oil pressure issues was considering running with cover off to see if all rods emitted oil. Any ideas for splash guard? I saw a video where one guy put paper clip ends down the holes but not too sure I like that.
03-03-2013, 10:15 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
03-03-2013, 10:16 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Start it and have a look with some cardboard around the perimeter.
03-04-2013, 10:58 AM
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Year: 2001
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lisle makes a clip on splash gaurd.http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=200
Those would be awesome during adjustments!
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03-04-2013, 11:02 AM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
So...clean it up with a brush and mmo (marvel mystery oil)?
Or....?
I guess part of the answer may come to me when I run it with cover off and see if oil is flowing nicely through all rods.
Or....?
I guess part of the answer may come to me when I run it with cover off and see if oil is flowing nicely through all rods.
03-04-2013, 11:04 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What is your oil pressure at both HOT idle and over 1600 rpms?
With a new-to-you vehicle, I'd be keeping a very close eye on the level of antifreeze in the coolant reservoir for coolant loss. It's not that uncommon for the factory 0331 head to crack on the 00-01 and that can lead to bearing wear and low oil pressure. Not saying that is your issue; just that you need to be aware of the 0331 head issue on your vintage.
As long as you have the valve cover off, take a very close look at the head in the cylinder 3-4 area for any small cracks.
With a new-to-you vehicle, I'd be keeping a very close eye on the level of antifreeze in the coolant reservoir for coolant loss. It's not that uncommon for the factory 0331 head to crack on the 00-01 and that can lead to bearing wear and low oil pressure. Not saying that is your issue; just that you need to be aware of the 0331 head issue on your vintage.
As long as you have the valve cover off, take a very close look at the head in the cylinder 3-4 area for any small cracks.
Last edited by tjwalker; 03-04-2013 at 11:06 AM.
03-04-2013, 11:42 AM
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Year: 1999
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Here's a pic of my ghetto oil dike. Scrap cardboard cut to fit. Just tuck it around the sides of the cylinder head, but make sure you stuff some rags down behind the cardboard at the back of the cylinder head.
If you have removed the CCV tube at the intake manifold when you removed the valve cover you will see an immediate rise in RPM when you start the engine because of the large vcuum leak created at the intake. Not a big deal, you want the RPM up around 1500-2000 RPM when checking oil flow anyway.
As you can see in the pic oil isn't flying everywhere.
If you have removed the CCV tube at the intake manifold when you removed the valve cover you will see an immediate rise in RPM when you start the engine because of the large vcuum leak created at the intake. Not a big deal, you want the RPM up around 1500-2000 RPM when checking oil flow anyway.
As you can see in the pic oil isn't flying everywhere.
03-04-2013, 11:48 AM
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Year: 2001
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Yeah the oil pressure is def an issue. I thought I'd taken care of the issue as it improved markedly with an oil change and filter but it isn't right.
Prior to oil change it was at 20ish at 2k rpm and would drop down to nearly 0 at idle when up to temp.
Now it hold on at about 40 for a while when up to temp and at idle about 20. BUT after being warm a while (15 minutes maybe after it has been up to temp), drops down to about 25 and 5 area again.
fwiw currently running oversize carquest blue and rotella t6 5w40
Prior to oil change it was at 20ish at 2k rpm and would drop down to nearly 0 at idle when up to temp.
Now it hold on at about 40 for a while when up to temp and at idle about 20. BUT after being warm a while (15 minutes maybe after it has been up to temp), drops down to about 25 and 5 area again.
fwiw currently running oversize carquest blue and rotella t6 5w40
03-04-2013, 11:49 AM
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Year: 1998 Sport
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What I did on other vehicles that I have owned was find a old valve cover and cut a slot along the center to access all the adjusting bolts. If I had to make any adjustment I would just toss the cut valve cover on with a old gasket and was able to start it without blowing oil all over and was able to make any adjustment with the engine running. I haven't had to do this with any of my Jeeps yet. But if I have to I will just hit up my local jy and pick up a old valve cover and slot that one.
03-04-2013, 11:52 AM
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Year: 2001
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Here's a pic of my ghetto oil dike. Scrap cardboard cut to fit. Just tuck it around the sides of the cylinder head, but make sure you stuff some rags down behind the cardboard at the back of the cylinder head.
If you have removed the CCV tube at the intake manifold when you removed the valve cover you will see an immediate rise in RPM when you start the engine because of the large vacuum leak created at the intake. Not a big deal, you want the RPM up around 1500-2000 RPM when checking oil flow anyway.
As you can see in the pic oil isn't flying everywhere.
If you have removed the CCV tube at the intake manifold when you removed the valve cover you will see an immediate rise in RPM when you start the engine because of the large vacuum leak created at the intake. Not a big deal, you want the RPM up around 1500-2000 RPM when checking oil flow anyway.
As you can see in the pic oil isn't flying everywhere.
Mine looks disgusting compared to that...
PS...I started another thread about this but I may as well ask here. I see you have that plastic cable channel/raceway running parallel with the engine. How the heck do you remove that without busting it? https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/how...hannel-163866/
Last edited by IGeeky1; 03-04-2013 at 12:00 PM. Reason: added cable channel question
03-04-2013, 11:55 AM
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Year: 2001
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What I did on other vehicles that I have owned was find a old valve cover and cut a slot along the center to access all the adjusting bolts. If I had to make any adjustment I would just toss the cut valve cover on with a old gasket and was able to start it without blowing oil all over and was able to make any adjustment with the engine running. I haven't had to do this with any of my Jeeps yet. But if I have to I will just hit up my local jy and pick up a old valve cover and slot that one.
03-04-2013, 11:56 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
Just looks Crusty. Do the Oil Dyke cardbaord trick. Run some detregent in the Oil for a hour and drain, break up some of that nasty nasty. Definately no worse off than mine was. I could finger out scoop fulls of black sludge on my valve train that was 22K miles ago after i cleaned minee up.