ok so i got a trans cooler from a buddy of mine and i wanted to know if it was worth putting on or not...

second... my cruise control stopped working to i took out the whole cable assembly and i wanted to know if there is any reason to leave the vacuum reservoir in our can i just take it out and plug the line...

 

1) A bit vague - what do you do with your rig?

2) You can go ahead and strip out the vacuum servo and plug the line if you like - poses no trouble. Since the OEM lines are Nylon and get brittle with age, I'd suggest you follow it back to the source connexion and plug it off there.

 

its my daily driver i drive it to college and back every day... i occasionally take it off road but mostly street driven...

and i talked to a mechanic buddy of mine and he said the vacuum reservoir is needed for my whole vacuum system... i plugged hole from the cruise control cable... i left the line and the reservoir in seeing that the line split to another component ang then entered the firewall

 

ok my vacuum lines are fixed... now i just need to know if the trans cooler is worth putting on

 

Yes put the transmission cooler in. It doesn't take much time to install and in your case it is free insurance. Heat is the number one killer of transmissions.

 

ok sounds like another thing i can do in my free time tonight... thanks for the help man ill make sure to take pics for when i make my build thread

ill keep you posted

 

Also if you wanted to make it really easy you could pick up this fitting:

Hayden - Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Line Connector-Part # 391

If you didn't use this I think you would have to have cut into the metal line.

 

im going to see if advanced autoparts or pepboys has it.. if not i will mostlikely cut the metal line

 

Use a tubing cutter (with the sharp wheel) if you have one available to you - it's better. Failing that, a cut-off wheel in a Dremel works well.

Make sure to deburr the cut!

If you do not have a tubing beader (most people do not,) allow a minimum of 1" of overlap between the rubber hose and the hardline. Use two worm drive clamps to secure the hose to the hardline - the first one should be about 1/4" from the bitter end of the hose, the second one about 1/8"-1/4" from the first. Pressure in those lines is residual, but you do want to prevent leaks.

I believe 3/8" ID power steering hose will work neatly for those lines - 7/16" should fit if 3/8" does not.

 

added to my todo list for friday.... thanks for the input brother