u joint oreintation of greese zyrk fitting?
Okay guys so i just got done installin new spicer u joints 1310's greasable in my front and rear driveshafts. i pulled my shafts and had the u joints installd locally for 80 bucks for 5 so not a bad deal.
question is the guy installed them with the greese fitting facing away from the shafts? so the fitting which is slightly angled is blocked by the yoke of the matting part.
is there an oreintation? i thinkif the fitting was slanted towards the shafts ,inward it would be no problem for greesing.. any input? cus im goin back to have them flip the joint so to speak. i know they make needle nose greese tips but its not nessacry if thy were installed proper
question is the guy installed them with the greese fitting facing away from the shafts? so the fitting which is slightly angled is blocked by the yoke of the matting part.
is there an oreintation? i thinkif the fitting was slanted towards the shafts ,inward it would be no problem for greesing.. any input? cus im goin back to have them flip the joint so to speak. i know they make needle nose greese tips but its not nessacry if thy were installed proper
Pick up a grease needle, mine has a standard fitting that my greese gun fits on then the needle tappers down to a small tip just like a needle. You use the needle to push in the ball center of the fitting then pump in the greese. You will have to put presure on the needle because nothing holds it in place.
I have given up on a standard fitting greese gun in favor of the needle because I can always get the correct angle to hit the fittings.
I have given up on a standard fitting greese gun in favor of the needle because I can always get the correct angle to hit the fittings.
Pick up a grease needle, mine has a standard fitting that my greese gun fits on then the needle tappers down to a small tip just like a needle. You use the needle to push in the ball center of the fitting then pump in the greese. You will have to put presure on the needle because nothing holds it in place.
I have given up on a standard fitting greese gun in favor of the needle because I can always get the correct angle to hit the fittings.
I have given up on a standard fitting greese gun in favor of the needle because I can always get the correct angle to hit the fittings.
yea i geuss thats the answer. but in reality the u joints should be able to get to without. the grease fitting is on an angle for a reason. and the guy who installed mine angles them the wrong way. i went down to the place anf the guy agreed with me. so ima drop it off and hes gunna flip um free of charge.
one more concern is will the joint get disturbed when i take them out again?
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 28,068
Likes: 6
From: Tenn. and Mich.
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
I've always heard that the grease-able joints, being hollow to allow for the grease passages, are weaker than the non-grease-able ones which should therefore be stronger. You can always take them apart and grease them when needed. JMO
Dan
Dan
x2. mine arent greasable. i broke the greasable kind while lightly to midly wheeling. havent had as problem with the non greasable. even with these i just smear a little axle grease on them anyways. just my two cents from experience.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
From: Taylorsville, UT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Breakage is dependant on gears and driving style. I have not had an especial problem with breaking driveline joints anyway, greasable or not. I prefer greasable so I can fill them all the way up with grease after especially wet runs, but that is just me. Water will get into the joints regardless, and the greasables make it easier to squish it out.
I am running 35s, hella gears, a manual, and 3.50/3.54s in the diffs, so my drivelines are getting more pressure than a lot of wheelers with lower diff gears, and I have not been breaking greasables.
I would not worry alot about the strength side, anyway. If you lube the joints, greasable is better. If you just run them until they fail (like many do
), you might as well go non-greasable.
Also, you should not lose anything having them pulled back out, unless something goes wrong. I have to pull one end of my DL down to get to the ball zerk anyway, so orientation of the zerks has not been a concern to me
I am running 35s, hella gears, a manual, and 3.50/3.54s in the diffs, so my drivelines are getting more pressure than a lot of wheelers with lower diff gears, and I have not been breaking greasables.
I would not worry alot about the strength side, anyway. If you lube the joints, greasable is better. If you just run them until they fail (like many do
Also, you should not lose anything having them pulled back out, unless something goes wrong. I have to pull one end of my DL down to get to the ball zerk anyway, so orientation of the zerks has not been a concern to me
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yup, i always install them so the zerks face the shafts.
but as for my rig, i just buy the cheap non greasable ones. for the 12 bux and 20 minutes, it's just too easy. the axle shaft ones take a bit more time, but they're still only 30 bux each.
there is always a chance the clips may break or the cap may snap trying to push them back out, or a needle bearing may fall inside the cap.
i'd say if they were greased when installed, forget about them. just run them till next season then replace them again, with the non greasable ones.
but as for my rig, i just buy the cheap non greasable ones. for the 12 bux and 20 minutes, it's just too easy. the axle shaft ones take a bit more time, but they're still only 30 bux each.
there is always a chance the clips may break or the cap may snap trying to push them back out, or a needle bearing may fall inside the cap.
i'd say if they were greased when installed, forget about them. just run them till next season then replace them again, with the non greasable ones.
Breakage is dependant on gears and driving style. I have not had an especial problem with breaking driveline joints anyway, greasable or not. I prefer greasable so I can fill them all the way up with grease after especially wet runs, but that is just me. Water will get into the joints regardless, and the greasables make it easier to squish it out.
I am running 35s, hella gears, a manual, and 3.50/3.54s in the diffs, so my drivelines are getting more pressure than a lot of wheelers with lower diff gears, and I have not been breaking greasables.
I would not worry alot about the strength side, anyway. If you lube the joints, greasable is better. If you just run them until they fail (like many do
), you might as well go non-greasable.
Also, you should not lose anything having them pulled back out, unless something goes wrong. I have to pull one end of my DL down to get to the ball zerk anyway, so orientation of the zerks has not been a concern to me
I am running 35s, hella gears, a manual, and 3.50/3.54s in the diffs, so my drivelines are getting more pressure than a lot of wheelers with lower diff gears, and I have not been breaking greasables.
I would not worry alot about the strength side, anyway. If you lube the joints, greasable is better. If you just run them until they fail (like many do
Also, you should not lose anything having them pulled back out, unless something goes wrong. I have to pull one end of my DL down to get to the ball zerk anyway, so orientation of the zerks has not been a concern to me

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