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Turn Signal Issues on a 1990 Base XJ

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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #1  
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 2.5L 4-cyl.
Default Turn Signal Issues on a 1990 Base XJ

When I recently got my Cherokee, the turn signals didn't work. I changed out the bulbs but still needed to manually work the stick to make the RIGHT DIRECTIONAL work. After a few days, the right turn signal began to work on its own but much slower -- and dimmer -- than the left.

I figured it was a turn signal switch issue but before I go to the trouble and expense of replacing, I figured I'd ask the experts here for their opinion since there are some connected issues that may point to an wiring problem instead.

When the HEADLIGHTS are on, the right direction refuses to blink off -- it just stays lit. And when the headlights are off but the A/C is on, the same thing -- the right turn signal refuses to do anything but stay on.

Does this sound like an electrical problem that will or won't be solved by installing a new turn signal switch?

Thanks in advance.

CJ
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CJG
Does this sound like an electrical problem that will or won't be solved by installing a new turn signal switch?

Thanks in advance.

CJ
Yes (err... it won't, err... I don't think its the switch). You have a ground issues somewhere. I had some random Blinker issues in my '87 that turned out (no pun intended) to be the receptacle that the light plugs into. It had corroded and generate a little short that was throwing everything off. In my experience, the intermittent electrical gremlins are related to bad ground/connectivity, and very rarely due to bad parts (which tend to fail in an all-or-nothing fashion).
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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On my 91 XJ, when the headlamps are "on", the front turn signal and side marker lamps flash alternately...when the headlamps are "off", the front turn signal and side marker lamps flash in unison. In my experience, failure of the circuit to work in this manner has been the result of a corroded socket(s) or moisture in the socket(s). Also, the front side marker lamp MUST be a #194. Replacing the switch won't solve the problem, however, it will allow the self-cancelling feature to work again ( if that is what you meant when you said you have to "manually work the stick").
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TheNerd
You have a ground issues somewhere.
Yessir. The headlights, A/C... any heavier current draw brings chassis "ground" a few volts above ground because of the bad connection and the other electronics get funky.
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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 07:47 PM
  #5  
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Thanks, guys. I had a feeling. I sanded and cleaned the insides of the receptacles but, as you can see from the photo, I think these have been open to the elements for at least 8 years.


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So not only do new lenses go on the list but new bulb receptacles.

Thanks again.

CJ
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 05:35 PM
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Two things to look at just to eliminate them as possibilities and also could fix the problem.

On the driver's side inner fender are a screw or two holding black ground wires. Remove the screw or screws and sand the paint off underneath them, clean the terminal rings and reinstall tightly.
Next, look into the engine compartment behind the driver's side headlight.
There's a connector there with 10 wires on each side. Unplug it and clean it out with a good electronics cleaner.
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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Thanks, 54. Will do.

Can you be a little more specific, though, about the location of that 10 pin connector?

I had to replace the driver's side headlight and had a hell of a time working in the engine compartment space right behind the lamp. In fact, I lost the nut that the headlight adjuster screw sits in; it was cracked so when I unscrewed the adjuster screw too far and it came out, the nut just fell apart and disappeared into some sort of no-man's land behind the headlight. I could not even get my hand in there. I wound up having to use a toggle bolt to replace the adjuster screw and nut.

So I'm just curious to locate that 10 pin connector before I break my hand again searching in that sealed section right behind the headlamp.

Thanks in advance.

CJ
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CJG
Thanks, 54. Will do.

Can you be a little more specific, though, about the location of that 10 pin connector?

I had to replace the driver's side headlight and had a hell of a time working in the engine compartment space right behind the lamp. In fact, I lost the nut that the headlight adjuster screw sits in; it was cracked so when I unscrewed the adjuster screw too far and it came out, the nut just fell apart and disappeared into some sort of no-man's land behind the headlight. I could not even get my hand in there. I wound up having to use a toggle bolt to replace the adjuster screw and nut.

So I'm just curious to locate that 10 pin connector before I break my hand again searching in that sealed section right behind the headlamp.

Thanks in advance.

CJ
It's in the engine compartment. Remove the electric fan and/or the air cleaner box if that makes it easier.
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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In addition to the 10-pin connector mentioned by Cruiser, there is a multi-pin blade type connector under the steering column near the knee bolster, that's where your multi-switch connects to the harness. I was having similar problems and discovered that connector had come partially undone.
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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Much appreciated, F1.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by TheNerd
Yes (err... it won't, err... I don't think its the switch). You have a ground issues somewhere. I had some random Blinker issues in my '87 that turned out (no pun intended) to be the receptacle that the light plugs into. It had corroded and generate a little short that was throwing everything off. In my experience, the intermittent electrical gremlins are related to bad ground/connectivity, and very rarely due to bad parts (which tend to fail in an all-or-nothing fashion).
X2 !!!! Troubleshooting that drove us crazy. First a wire would show positive current, then negative, good place to start. The receptacle turned out to be the culprit on our 87 too.
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 07:14 PM
  #12  
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Probably a good idea to do them both then. Are they done yet?
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 12:48 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Probably a good idea to do them both then. Are they done yet?
Between work, getting my house prepped for painting and ferrying around my 87 year-old neighbor since he can't drive anymore I have to make an appointment w/ myself just to ****. I won't be able to get into it for a few weeks...

CJ
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Old Jul 1, 2012 | 09:26 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by CJG
Thanks, guys. I had a feeling. I sanded and cleaned the insides of the receptacles but, as you can see from the photo, I think these have been open to the elements for at least 8 years.




So not only do new lenses go on the list but new bulb receptacles.

Thanks again.

CJ
By the looks of your quarter panel, I would say you have been getting moisture into you taillight assemblies. You can get new pigtails for them, or from a JY. There cheap. Also spay them with a waterproof sealant after they are cleaned up.
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