Alright so in November my temp kept going up into the red throwing a light and no heat comin out of the heater. I found the rad cap was bad, coolant was solidified so I installed a new cap and had it flushed at the shop.

So after that new coolant and cap and everything worked great til this past Monday.

It started heating up into the red again. The light didn't come on. The heater was blowing out cold air. When I start to drive the temp will go down and when it gets to normal it will blow out warm/hot air. As soon as I slow down or come to a stop it heats back up and the air gets cold again.

Is it the Tstat? The fans seem to work fine. It does sound like there may be a bad bearing in one of the fans tho. Any help or advice would be great. Thanks

 

Low on coolant? With the engine COLD, remove the rad cap to check coolant level. Is it still green and clear? Might be a good idea to start replacing other cooling system components. Solidified coolant is not good and could continue to cause problems down the road. Should be running plenty cool this time of year.

 

The coolant was solidified but got it flushed and new coolant added. Coolant level is good.

 

Solidified coolant indicates a long time has passed without proper maintenance. Somewhat difficult to pinpoint the problem. Sometimes u just have to start doing maintenance repair/replacement of each/all components in the cooling system. That usually takes care of most overheat issues.

 

I had the same problem with mine. Pulled off the water pump and found there was almost nothing left of the impeller so it wasn't circulating.

 

It also might explain why when you drive it gets better. If your impellers are spinning faster as your RPMs increase you will circulate more fluid.

 

Try burping the air
Leave cap off while running it and use ramps on the front wheels to make coolant flow to the rear of the engine and keep adding coolant till air bubbles stop

I did this per dealer from jeep told me and it works

 

when sitting still cooling is done thru clutch fan when moving cooling is done by movement check clutch fan also

 

When I took it in the shop to get it flushed he said something about the waterpump, but he also said the water pump looks new. How hard are waterpumps to change? I've never messed with a cooling system before. I figure I will just replace the water pump and Tstat.

 

The water pump is pretty easy to change out. It might not be your problem just throwing out ideas. How long does it take to get hot? If your coolant was solid you still could have destroyed your pump even if it was brand new. If the blades are spinning and they hit something solid it doesn't end up well. Might be your bad bearing too.

 

Water pump, radiator, fan clutch, t-stat are the main cooling system components but there are other parts as well.

 

I also had this happen one time on one of my vehicles. The line that goes from the radiator to the overflow bottle was plugged SOLID. So even though the radiator cap was opening to relieve the pressure it had no where to go and the car overheated. I still don't know how it could have ever got that plugged but it did and I jusst about pulled my hair out trying to figure it out.

 

Would I have to drain the coolant out completely to do this? I know I prolly should just to see if there are any more chunks. If there was more chunks another flush would be best? I don't know I live in an apartment I cam do the work but I get in trouble because I do the work in the apartment parking lot, lol. I'm tired of taking this damn thing to the shop when I can do the work, but am limited to where I do it.

 

To change the pump yes you will want to drain the coolant.

 

It takes about 6-10 minutes to get at normal operating temp. When it was 30* here it wasn't doing it. Don't know if that helps. But as soon as the outside temp dropped it started doing t again. What would cause the heater to NOT blow out hot air when the temp Gaige says it's hot?