When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Trouble removing nut at ground point next to oil dipstick!!
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
flint is right , id toss the original.. l thread it in and tighten the first nut aqainst the block or bracket. add wires and use 2nd nut to make it ez next time.
face it, the original part is oddball for its intended purpose , overkill in design when a stabndard bolt with 2 nuts would get rid of the torx that is too small for the job. a simple hex head is easier. put the wires between the 2 nuts, thread the bolt in the hole,snug up nut 1 as tight as u want, then snug nut 2.
ive used this setup in other work, it keeps it standard wrenches
keep it simple.
btw, no booze,no smoke ,27 years , clear mind... ,money to waste on cars!!
face it, the original part is oddball for its intended purpose , overkill in design when a stabndard bolt with 2 nuts would get rid of the torx that is too small for the job. a simple hex head is easier. put the wires between the 2 nuts, thread the bolt in the hole,snug up nut 1 as tight as u want, then snug nut 2.
ive used this setup in other work, it keeps it standard wrenches
keep it simple.
btw, no booze,no smoke ,27 years , clear mind... ,money to waste on cars!!
Original is fine. The stud backing off is not the norm.
Hope other Jeepers read on to page 2 and Cruiser's link to the tip.
I retract my recommendation of using loctite to secure the grounding stud.
Loctite is a plastic and an insulator. Don't use it in securing electrical connections.
About as counter productive as flip flops in the snow.
Cruiser's recommendation of Oxyguard much superior in electical applications.
Just insure the stud goes in tight, not crazy tight, but tight.
Originally Posted by cruiser54
A little dab of LocTite on the threads will be fine.
Just make sure the part of the stud that touches the block, and the block are clean of any paint. Slap some OxGard on it and tighten her up.
Just to continue on with the tangent this thread seems to be following.
Regular ol blue or red LocTite will be fine as cruiser said. Any mating surface with an axial load (i.e. tightening a bolt) will have metal to metal contact, its just the nature of thread engagement. The loctite will settle in the portion of the thread that isn't under load. If you're worried about it just check continuity of the stud to ground. In this case that large shoulder on the stud will be the main point of contact with the block anyways.
LocTite does make a conductive adhesive for use in **** retentive applications (aka when electrical engineers say so). Its LocTite 3888 if I remember correctly. But its expensive and unnecessary.
Cliffs notes:
-Throw a dab of LocTite on the stud, thread it back in and forget about it.
Just to continue on with the tangent this thread seems to be following.
Regular ol blue or red LocTite will be fine as cruiser said. Any mating surface with an axial load (i.e. tightening a bolt) will have metal to metal contact, its just the nature of thread engagement. The loctite will settle in the portion of the thread that isn't under load. If you're worried about it just check continuity of the stud to ground. In this case that large shoulder on the stud will be the main point of contact with the block anyways.
LocTite does make a conductive adhesive for use in **** retentive applications (aka when electrical engineers say so). Its LocTite 3888 if I remember correctly. But its expensive and unnecessary.
Cliffs notes:
-Throw a dab of LocTite on the stud, thread it back in and forget about it.
Correct. The stud was designed for maximum contact, hence the flange.
I have replaced the original stud with a little blue LocTite and checked continuity and it is good. Before the LocTite dried I ran the nut down tight (without connectors), the stud did not move anymore and the nut easily came back off. BUT, all this double nut talk got me thinking and I'm going to look for another nut and two washers and maybe run a nut down to the base, add a washer, add the connectors, add another washer and the second nut......maybe...... although I think the stud will probably remain if I check the connections more than once every 27 years!
Thank you everyone for your advice on this ground nut issue. Even anyone I accused of being on drugs without firm evidence, it was just a joke! Now I have to go find answers on my burned wires issue.
My fix: Copper grounding strap from NAPA, nut, bolt, washers, and ring connectors.
Ages ago (1999?) that gaggle of wires came out of the plastic connector while I was changing plug wires. First version of this was trying to butt connect the wires together or something. Around 2012 I discovered those connections were coming apart again (after I replaced the crank position sensor and maybe the coil, cap, rotor, plugs). Current solution as described above and pictured below.
Clean that grounding strap good with electric parts cleaner first, then soak it right good in a silicone anti corrosive product. Spray everything down with it after assembly too. If you are into the Ox-Guard, this might be a good place to use it.
Soon will be replacing the ring connectors with weatherproof ring connectors covered with weatherproof heat shrink tube. Debating changing the grounding strap to a cable.
I cannot remember the wire gauges I am dealing with here, so of anybody knows that I would appreciate it.
My fix: Copper grounding strap from NAPA, nut, bolt, washers, and ring connectors.
Better picture. Better picture of my bird's nest mod.
Last edited by 318SixPack; Sep 4, 2019 at 05:11 PM.
Reason: Forgot a step; Better picture added
Compared some 16 ga. wire to the stock wire, then went and got 14 ga. I know the copper inside is the actual gauge, but 16 looked too small. Doesn't hurt to go thicker on a shore run.
