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Trouble removing nut at ground point next to oil dipstick!!

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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 12:37 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by nujeepguy
im curious about those wires? funny way to connect them? what are they??
It's all explained here:

http://cruiser54.com/?p=19
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 12:59 PM
  #17  
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Hope other Jeepers read on to page 2 and Cruiser's link to the tip.
I retract my recommendation of using loctite to secure the grounding stud.
Loctite is a plastic and an insulator. Don't use it in securing electrical connections.
About as counter productive as flip flops in the snow.
Cruiser's recommendation of Oxyguard much superior in electical applications.
Just insure the stud goes in tight, not crazy tight, but tight.
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 01:49 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by peep
Hope other Jeepers read on to page 2 and Cruiser's link to the tip.
I retract my recommendation of using loctite to secure the grounding stud.
Loctite is a plastic and an insulator. Don't use it in securing electrical connections.
About as counter productive as flip flops in the snow.
Cruiser's recommendation of Oxyguard much superior in electical applications.
Just insure the stud goes in tight, not crazy tight, but tight.
A little dab of LocTite on the threads will be fine.

Just make sure the part of the stud that touches the block, and the block are clean of any paint. Slap some OxGard on it and tighten her up.
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 02:54 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cristoviejo


What kind of special tool do I need to hold the stud while I attempt to loosen up the rest?
If you haven't cut it yet...You have nothing to loose by trying grabbing the stupid end with ViceGrips (as suggested). (or pound the 5MM box) It can't be that hard to turn the nut on the stud...

Is a louzy spot to make new wiring connectors, especially for those who solder, never crimp.
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 04:03 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by cristoviejo
what still confuses me is the fact that the whole enchilada is handy and the wire connectors remain glued to the nut and/or stud.
Wonder if you could twist the wires and get one rev out, then with the proper tool drive the connectors back toward the block. Electrical contact cleaner...or since I have some B-12 Kem-tool.....even a brief shot with a propane torch, all might help free it.
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 07:25 PM
  #21  
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Just a theoretical question, would it have been possible to just remove the stud entirely?
Then clean up the grounds and reinstall the stud?
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 09:04 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
would it have been possible to just remove the stud entirely?
See post #1
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 06:59 PM
  #23  
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Yea, I saw that. Why not just turn the stud until it comes out? Once the stud is loose, won't the terminal ring come loose? Just spin the stud and nut until they come out.
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Old Feb 6, 2017 | 08:15 PM
  #24  
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 02:04 PM
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I haven't given up yet, I just had to take a break so I don't break something on purpose!
I got the little son of a gun off and I have determined that the 7/32" socket I have will do the job of tightening the stud up when I put it back on. 5 mm maybe too small. The hardware store down the road said they would sell me the right star socket for $8. I 'm cheap so I declined. Pictures below...(the last one is my 7/32" hex socket for comparison)
Attached Thumbnails Trouble removing nut at ground point next to oil dipstick!!-sensor-ground-stud.jpg   Trouble removing nut at ground point next to oil dipstick!!-sensor-ground-stud-top.jpg   Trouble removing nut at ground point next to oil dipstick!!-sensor-ground-stud-head.jpg   Trouble removing nut at ground point next to oil dipstick!!-socket.jpg  
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 02:14 PM
  #26  
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By the way, I cut the wires, decided it's time for new connectors. It's 10 threads so you can unscrew the stud with the wires attached if you have more patience than me! I think I might be able to crimp and solder where the wires are at. I have most of the main harness disconnected from the firewall while I'm chasing bad wires....
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 04:08 PM
  #27  
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I would double nut a normal stud, run it in till that slipped, crack the double nyt's free then install the wires on the new stud. What say you Pete?
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 04:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
I would double nut a normal stud, run it in till that slipped, crack the double nyt's free then install the wires on the new stud. What say you Pete?
Are you on drugs?? All I have to do is reuse the same stud as designed!
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 05:30 PM
  #29  
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flint is right , id toss the original.. l thread it in and tighten the first nut aqainst the block or bracket. add wires and use 2nd nut to make it ez next time.
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 07:16 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by cristoviejo
Are you on drugs?? All I have to do is reuse the same stud as designed!
Agreed. Flintstone is on drugs.

OP is doing just fine.
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