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Transmission / Transfer case flush questions

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Old 01-19-2014, 05:20 PM
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Default Transmission / Transfer case flush questions

I plan on doing a transmission fluid & transfer case flush in the spring and I have a few questions. Before you read I have a 2001 XJ ~146k miles, 6 cyl, 4.0L, NP242 transfer case

Transfer case:
I was looking online when I stumbled upon two transfer case filters and I'm unsure of the difference if there is any besides the price. They both fit my 2001 XJ.
First one: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52258_00.htm
Second: http://www.quadratec.com/products/918680_35.htm
Question is...how difficult is it to replace & is it even worth replacing? I figured I might as well since I'll be replacing the fluids anyway.

Transmission:
Pretty much the same question; how difficult is it to replace & is it worth it? This is the filter I found. Again, fits 84-01 cherokee so I would assume it'll work.
Link: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52118_54.htm

If you have any tips I'd appreciate those too
Old 01-19-2014, 06:51 PM
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No point. The OE "filter" in the AW4 (I'm assuming you have a 4.0L automatic XJ) is just a screen that protects the pump from large chunks of debris. To change it you have to drop the pan and remove the dipstick tube, which can be quite the hassle. It is not a fluid filter like found in an engine or other transmissions, and does not have any change interval in any service schedule. I fact you're only supposed to clean it if you have a problem.

Similarly the transfer case pickup screen (I have no idea why Quadratec lists it as a filter) is only there to stop large bits as well. Only need to change it if it's been destroyed by large debris. Cleaning it every 100k miles isn't a horrible idea but you have to disassemble the transfer case to access it.

Just change the fluid in both. Both have drain plugs. Dexron III/Mercon aka Dex/Merc or D/M) only. No ATF+4 junk!

And absolutely do not do a reverse or power flush on the transmission! A forward flush that uses only the transmission's own pump is acceptable. This is normall called a "fluid exchange". You can find a writeup on here of how to do it. Otherwise just use the drain'n'fill method.
Old 01-19-2014, 06:56 PM
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Here's the answer^^.
Old 01-19-2014, 06:58 PM
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X3. Salad on the mark again as usual.
Old 01-19-2014, 07:05 PM
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If anything just clean the magnets off in the aw4 pan. I don't know why so many people change the screen in it. Most people's screens end up being clean anyway.To make it easy to drop the pan, cut the dipstick tube and fix it with a small piece of rubber hose and clamps. It may come apart for you but for some it does not.
Old 01-19-2014, 07:11 PM
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What Salad said...

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Old 01-19-2014, 07:15 PM
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my transmission fluid looked like the dookie..

it took me three drain and refill sessions to get it back to red... fyi
Old 01-19-2014, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
No point. The OE "filter" in the AW4 (I'm assuming you have a 4.0L automatic XJ) is just a screen that protects the pump from large chunks of debris. To change it you have to drop the pan and remove the dipstick tube, which can be quite the hassle. It is not a fluid filter like found in an engine or other transmissions, and does not have any change interval in any service schedule. I fact you're only supposed to clean it if you have a problem.

Similarly the transfer case pickup screen (I have no idea why Quadratec lists it as a filter) is only there to stop large bits as well. Only need to change it if it's been destroyed by large debris. Cleaning it every 100k miles isn't a horrible idea but you have to disassemble the transfer case to access it.

Just change the fluid in both. Both have drain plugs. Dexron III/Mercon aka Dex/Merc or D/M) only. No ATF+4 junk!

And absolutely do not do a reverse or power flush on the transmission! A forward flush that uses only the transmission's own pump is acceptable. This is normall called a "fluid exchange". You can find a writeup on here of how to do it. Otherwise just use the drain'n'fill method.
Thanks for the hefty response! I really wasn't sure if I should change the 'filters' or not but I'll save myself the time and leave them as it is. After all it's lasted this long so I should be alright. I'm probably going to do the drain and fill method. I've seen a lot of controversy over ATF+4 and Dex/Merc. I was originally going to use ATF+4 in the transfer case and Dex/merc in the tranny. I'll take your word for it though, I'll use dex/merc in both.


Originally Posted by MonacaYankee
If anything just clean the magnets off in the aw4 pan. I don't know why so many people change the screen in it. Most people's screens end up being clean anyway.To make it easy to drop the pan, cut the dipstick tube and fix it with a small piece of rubber hose and clamps. It may come apart for you but for some it does not.
Yeah I have to agree. I've seen the trouble that the dipstick tube creates. I was going to do that as well.
Old 01-19-2014, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Pines
Thanks for the hefty response! I really wasn't sure if I should change the 'filters' or not but I'll save myself the time and leave them as it is. After all it's lasted this long so I should be alright. I'm probably going to do the drain and fill method. I've seen a lot of controversy over ATF+4 and Dex/Merc. I was originally going to use ATF+4 in the transfer case and Dex/merc in the tranny. I'll take your word for it though, I'll use dex/merc in both.



Yeah I have to agree. I've seen the trouble that the dipstick tube creates. I was going to do that as well.
How do you clean the magnets in the pan when just removing the drain plug? That stuff on the magnets ain't going anywhere.
Old 01-19-2014, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
How do you clean the magnets in the pan when just removing the drain plug? That stuff on the magnets ain't going anywhere.
I'll be doing the drain and fill method with the transfer case, not the transmission. Cleaning the magnets shouldn't be a problem once the pan is dropped after cutting the dipstick tube
Old 01-19-2014, 08:01 PM
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Heh, not one of you caught my "Similarly ... as well" Not bad for a post from the throne.

Originally Posted by Pines
Thanks for the hefty response! I really wasn't sure if I should change the 'filters' or not but I'll save myself the time and leave them as it is. After all it's lasted this long so I should be alright. I'm probably going to do the drain and fill method. I've seen a lot of controversy over ATF+4 and Dex/Merc. I was originally going to use ATF+4 in the transfer case and Dex/merc in the tranny. I'll take your word for it though, I'll use dex/merc in both.
Well if you've bought the fluid already, don't worry about it. I write that to keep it simple. NP231 and NP242 were both specified and approved for use with ATFs from all the major manufacturers. Their lubrication requirements are nothing special, actually it'd be a good idea to run a lighter fluid to reduce parasitic loss.

The transmission, however, is a different story. The only time a fluid other than Dexron II/III/Mercon was specified by any of the three customers who purchased AW4s from Aisin-Warner was when Chrysler simplified their supply lines shortly after the XJ's drivetrain warranty ended...

Originally Posted by Pines
I've seen the trouble that the dipstick tube creates. I was going to do that as well.
Up to you! If you're **** and want to make sure it's 100% spotless then go for it.
Old 01-19-2014, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

How do you clean the magnets in the pan when just removing the drain plug? That stuff on the magnets ain't going anywhere.
Pan should drop far enough to get them even with the tube connected if the picture I saw was right.

The correct fluid is Dex/Merc 3 for the trans. Do not put Atf4 in it unless you want your transmission to start slipping.

Typical ashat Chrysler wanting the transmissions to fail to save a penny.

Last edited by MonacaYankee; 01-19-2014 at 08:09 PM.
Old 01-19-2014, 08:12 PM
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i dont know what all the trouble is with the dipstick tube people have.. i just dropped my pan, gave her a few small twists.. supported the opposite side of the pan with one hand.. and gave her a few good yanks with my other.. came right down
Old 01-19-2014, 08:18 PM
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Drop the pan and clean it out for the AW4. Clean the screen at the same time and replace if it looks torn or deformed. Fill it with Dex III and drive it for a week, then drain+fill it again and it should be fairly clean.

Same for the T-Case if it was really dirty. Drain + fill twice and drive it a week or so between fluid changes to really get the fluid to pick all the grime up. I wouldn't crack the case open just to change the screen - what a PITA (unless I had it out of the car to do a SYE or maintenance on the internals and needed to open it up anyway).

The 231 is pretty indifferent to the lube used, I have seen people use everything from 10w30 to ATF+4 to DexIII (my friend has run atf+4 in his 231 for over 40k miles and it still sounds perfect). I think the 242 is the same but at the same time Dex III will be just fine for it.

Last edited by investinwaffles; 01-19-2014 at 08:31 PM.
Old 01-19-2014, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JackJare9455
i dont know what all the trouble is with the dipstick tube people have.. i just dropped my pan, gave her a few small twists.. supported the opposite side of the pan with one hand.. and gave her a few good yanks with my other.. came right down
How much rust do you have in Longview, TX?


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