I have been debating back and forth about changing my Tranny fluid. I'll read different posts about whether or not to change and get conflicted about it. Lots of accounts of people changing and then the tranny not working.
I have no maintenance records on the vehicle. The vehicle has 195000 miles on it. It shifts good but on cold mornings it is a touch sluggish the fluid doesn't look horrible and doesn't have any type of burnt smell too it. I don't really have the money right now to change or rebuild the transmission should it not work after a fluid change. Is it worth the risk?
I have no maintenance records on the vehicle. The vehicle has 195000 miles on it. It shifts good but on cold mornings it is a touch sluggish the fluid doesn't look horrible and doesn't have any type of burnt smell too it. I don't really have the money right now to change or rebuild the transmission should it not work after a fluid change. Is it worth the risk?
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This is my first Chrysler product in 22 years of driving and working on. I was shocked myself to see that many folks service high mileage autos without any detrimental effects. Being used to GM Hydromatics and Ford AODs, it was rule of thumb, if it has 100k or better with no service history, don't even think about it.
My trans has 198k on it, so I'll probably take the gamble next summer if the fluid still looks clean. Guess these are some damn well built trannies. I'm only concerned because the eninge has but 55k on it making the trans the weak link now.
My trans has 198k on it, so I'll probably take the gamble next summer if the fluid still looks clean. Guess these are some damn well built trannies. I'm only concerned because the eninge has but 55k on it making the trans the weak link now.
Senior Member
If the fluid is dirty or burnt, it needs to be changed. Just make sure to use the right fluid. There was a TSB that says to now use ATF+4. Our XJ's came with DexII. You can't get DexII anymore so use DexIII. A lot of folks have had problems with their AW4 after using ATF+4. Use what was recommended by the factory. If you change the fluid and start having problems, the tranny had problems before and would need fixing anyway.
Member
x2. I bought my XJ with 230K mi and changed fluid and filter with no ill effects. (enter disclaimer here..)
Member
just change the fluid...so long as you drain it and DO NOT flush it you will be good to go.
I have never in my 15 years+ of working on vehicles(of ALL makes) heard someone recommend not changing fluids....no matter mileage. heard of people saying dont flush them because it could loosen a piece of debris that could later clog an internal hydraulic passageway...
but this is the FIRST of about 10 car sites or vehicles related that I have seen people recommend not changing the trans filter, or the fluid...
General consensus on say LS1tech, C10 forums, 73-87, chevy forums...ect...ect say change that ****! and not only change it, switch it to full synthetic!!!!
I will admit, it is one of those deals that can be nerve racking..but once its done and you get another 150,000 out of your trans you will look back and thank yourself!
a few suggestions. if you drop the pan, go ahead and change the filter. yes its just a wire mesh and is more of a "screen" but it does have its purpose. and it does require changing! also, if you drop the pan, go ahead and check your shift solenoids with a multi meter.
Also do not use any type of silicon, rtv, or any other sealant in a tube, bottle or areosal can on the gasket surface. go to autozone and get a rubber gasket...you can hold the gasket onto the pan with some grease(like wheel bearing grease) just a dab on the 4 corners.. so the gasket isnt falling off the pan.
and if thats too much...just drain and fill. be glad you own a vehicle with a drain plug...cause I aint never had one with on before this jeep...makes it a hell of a lot easier.
I have never in my 15 years+ of working on vehicles(of ALL makes) heard someone recommend not changing fluids....no matter mileage. heard of people saying dont flush them because it could loosen a piece of debris that could later clog an internal hydraulic passageway...
but this is the FIRST of about 10 car sites or vehicles related that I have seen people recommend not changing the trans filter, or the fluid...
General consensus on say LS1tech, C10 forums, 73-87, chevy forums...ect...ect say change that ****! and not only change it, switch it to full synthetic!!!!
I will admit, it is one of those deals that can be nerve racking..but once its done and you get another 150,000 out of your trans you will look back and thank yourself!
a few suggestions. if you drop the pan, go ahead and change the filter. yes its just a wire mesh and is more of a "screen" but it does have its purpose. and it does require changing! also, if you drop the pan, go ahead and check your shift solenoids with a multi meter.
Also do not use any type of silicon, rtv, or any other sealant in a tube, bottle or areosal can on the gasket surface. go to autozone and get a rubber gasket...you can hold the gasket onto the pan with some grease(like wheel bearing grease) just a dab on the 4 corners.. so the gasket isnt falling off the pan.
and if thats too much...just drain and fill. be glad you own a vehicle with a drain plug...cause I aint never had one with on before this jeep...makes it a hell of a lot easier.
jpz
Senior Member
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If your engine oil wasn't changed for 20,000 miles would you change it or just leave it assuming that everything will be fine? All fluids need to be changed, nothing lasts forever.
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Quote:
exactly!Originally Posted by jpz
If your engine oil wasn't changed for 20,000 miles would you change it or just leave it assuming that everything will be fine? All fluids need to be changed, nothing lasts forever.
Quote:
And its manual... if it changes anything
Changes everything. They're talking about automatics, which are very different.Originally Posted by Batman33165
Does this go for transmission on 88's?And its manual... if it changes anything
The old fluid spec used to be 75W90 API GL-3 or GL-4 gear oil, unfortunately this is no longer available. GL-5 hypoid gear oil that you see on the shelf is damaging to our transmissions, do not use it. All that's left for us at this point is boutique oils, however the Redline lube is the best stuff you can put into one of these transmissions. Royal Purple Synchromax and Pennzoil Synchromesh are also good alternatives.
Beware that Chrysler (not the manufacturer) discontinued support for these transmissions once they were no longer in warranty and, instead of the right lubricant, filled customers vehicles with freaking motor oil of "a similar viscosity". It's a load of dung, and same reasoning with Chrysler filling automatics with AW4.
Fill up your gear box with Redline MT-90, my local NAPA carries it so look around. Best fluid for the brass-synchro manual Peugot BA10/5 and Aisin-Warner AX-15. You'll love it.
Quote:
If you crap yourself, would you change your underwear? New underwear might chafe! Originally Posted by jpz
If your engine oil wasn't changed for 20,000 miles would you change it or just leave it assuming that everything will be fine? All fluids need to be changed, nothing lasts forever.

Quote:
My trans has 198k on it, so I'll probably take the gamble next summer if the fluid still looks clean. Guess these are some damn well built trannies. I'm only concerned because the eninge has but 55k on it making the trans the weak link now.
That's because they're not ****ty Chrysler transmissions. Aisin-Warner is basically Borg Warner and Toyota. The AW4 is nearly identical to the A340 used in the Supra, etc.Originally Posted by dwright98xj
This is my first Chrysler product in 22 years of driving and working on. I was shocked myself to see that many folks service high mileage autos without any detrimental effects. Being used to GM Hydromatics and Ford AODs, it was rule of thumb, if it has 100k or better with no service history, don't even think about it. My trans has 198k on it, so I'll probably take the gamble next summer if the fluid still looks clean. Guess these are some damn well built trannies. I'm only concerned because the eninge has but 55k on it making the trans the weak link now.




