95xjbawler

Alright its the stock auto trans in a 95 sport, I was coming home from class today and it started slipping like crazy, so i babied it home thinking it was out of tranny fluid.(had no other option) get home hit the plug and it had plenty so I run to autozone get some atf+4 7 qts and drop it in. goes from 1-2-3 alright but want nothing to do with od? Whats the deal? where should I even start?

Jeepjunky

did you check the fluid the right way?

95xjbawler

idling in park? yes... and i also drained it out. and put 7 fresh qts in

95xjbawler

Also I have a check engie light on from this?

Firehawk068

If it's pre-OBDII (95)
Check the trouble codes
Take your ignition key switch, Turn it to the "ON" position(not start) 3 times using this sequence:
ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 8 seconds I believe.
Your Check Engine light will start to flash.
Count the number of flashes between pauses. Codes are 2 digit.
Example: 5 flashes-pause-5 flashes-long pause = code 55

You probably have shift solenoid code(s) and/or lockup solenoid failure code.
Not sure if this would cause slippage or no forward movement. Maybe in the higher gears. Front pump failing, or clogged screen would definately cause slippage or no movement. Also low fluid level.........but you fixed that.

95xjbawler

It went 3-6-10

Jeepjunky

http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoECUcodes.htm

95xjbawler

hmm would a air switch solenoid cause my tranny to do this?

Firehawk068

I have seen this code(36) come up on non-turbocharged vehicles before.......never could figure out what it refers too.
I have also seen A/C codes show up on vehicles without A/C.......

There shouldn't be any single digit codes, and there is no code-10.
Maybe re check the procedure, and pay really close attention to the flashes.
They are always 2 digit codes.

95xjbawler

Alright, I've been getting the tps code on my xj, mean while it doesn't like to shift out of 1st till 4 grand..while spewing fluid like a *****, after I realize the leak i start to gimp home when I see smoke comin up between the seats only to pull over and have a nice tranny fire going on. still runs like it did. but it will sit till its fixed!!

any ideas here?
i installed a new tps, and it didnt do anything. while running unhooked the tps and no jump or rough idle.
unplugged the iac valve and it ran better, still no shifts tho

95xjbawler

bump

rideordie66

I thought dex merc was what you use on the aw4? I have a 96 and the same type of problem. I get it to shift into 4 but it goes in and out at around 55. When I did a tranny service a year ago I found out that I had been driving it for a year without it shifting into 4th. Now its going out again.

DFlintstone

I think there is a fuse for your TCM. Mine is right on the harness near the TCM under my glove-box. Don't know where yours might be. Mine works "squishy" with the fuse out. (not "firm").

95xjbawler

explain what you mean by squishy if you dont mind?

acem

I just fixed a similar problem with my 95 xj sport.

The transmission was acting wierd but it was hard to diagnose because my transfer case was stripping out in high range (don't ask). I replaced the transfer case and started diagnosing the transmission. Here is what you can do.

Check for slippage with TCU bypassed.

Remove the fuse from your power center (under hood) for the transmission control unit. This will cause the trnasmission to act like a manual valve body (it shifts into whatever gear you select - not automatic). Now try the transmission in 1, then 3 (you won't have 2), then OD. Shift at the proper speeds. If the trans shifts properly (not much lag or slippage) then you have an electric control issue. If the shifts are very slow or it slips alot it is mechanical.

If it is mechanical I can't help.

If it is electrical you can read the codes from the TCU (if you are going to do this, check them before you remove the fuse). The TCU data connector is under the dash, next to the console on the drivers side. Connect a DRBII or compatable auto computer to this and retrieve the codes. Once you have the codes you can start your oddesy into computer control troubleshooting! I have the diagnostic book and can help you once you get the codes but it is too much to include all of it here.

If you don't have a way to read the codes you can test the connector harness and components using a multi meter.

My problem turned out to be an open wire to the #1 solenoid. I finally traced it to the wire from the 7way connector (firewall) to the transmission. A little solder, heat shrink tubing and tape and it was all better.

Diagnosing the problem was a bear. Fixing it was easy.

Most people would have thrown a set of solenoids in ($150+) or rebuilt the transmission($1000+). Neither would have fixed mine but $0.50 worth of solder, heat shrink tubing and electrical tape got me going!

Thx-Ace