Track bar frame mount, bolt sleeve?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Track bar frame mount, bolt sleeve?
I'm in the process of installing a new track bar on a stock 98 xj. The jeep has been having progressive death wobble. Upon closer inspection the ball joint on the track bar is completely shot. It moves quite freely whereas the shank remains secure.
Upon attempting to remove the castle nut, which was heavily corroded (live in the north east), the cotter pin snapped off at bolt. With the pin being so corroded I figured I'd just as easily sheer through it with enough torque on the castle nut. One turn with a 1/2 ratchet saw the castle nut completely rounded off. It too is very rusty.
Instead of dubbing with it I then decided to simple remove the frame mount and split the nut. All but one of the bolts came out quite nicely. Now this other stubborn bolt is very hard to wrench on (despite PB). I've nearly gotten it out when suddenly the sleeve, yes sleeve, it threads in to decide to pop a weld. Or I'm assuming it was welded. I can't see or feel any broken welds. The bolt and the sleeve now are spinning freely together.
My next step would be to put a pair of vice grips around the sleeve and continue to try and back the bolt out. This hole thing however has been quite a chore. Why thread a bolt through a sleeve and nut a nut? The bolt just next to it is threaded into a nut... Who the hell designed this wretched fixture?
My only concern is that I will simply end up turning the sleeve in the vice grips. I do intend to pick up a pair of Irwin grips for this reason. Has anyone ever encountered this problem before? Or have any suggestions? Please note; I'm working with conventional hand tools here.
Thank you!
Upon attempting to remove the castle nut, which was heavily corroded (live in the north east), the cotter pin snapped off at bolt. With the pin being so corroded I figured I'd just as easily sheer through it with enough torque on the castle nut. One turn with a 1/2 ratchet saw the castle nut completely rounded off. It too is very rusty.
Instead of dubbing with it I then decided to simple remove the frame mount and split the nut. All but one of the bolts came out quite nicely. Now this other stubborn bolt is very hard to wrench on (despite PB). I've nearly gotten it out when suddenly the sleeve, yes sleeve, it threads in to decide to pop a weld. Or I'm assuming it was welded. I can't see or feel any broken welds. The bolt and the sleeve now are spinning freely together.
My next step would be to put a pair of vice grips around the sleeve and continue to try and back the bolt out. This hole thing however has been quite a chore. Why thread a bolt through a sleeve and nut a nut? The bolt just next to it is threaded into a nut... Who the hell designed this wretched fixture?
My only concern is that I will simply end up turning the sleeve in the vice grips. I do intend to pick up a pair of Irwin grips for this reason. Has anyone ever encountered this problem before? Or have any suggestions? Please note; I'm working with conventional hand tools here.
Thank you!
#2
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Dubuque IA,Libertyville IL
Posts: 2,450
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I had that problem before but my bolt snapped off in that weird sleeve nut. I ended up using an air hammer and knocking it off and replaced we a grade 8 bolt and lock washer. Never had a problem after. I actually replaced all the mounting bolts and was much better
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
In do intend to get all new mounting hardware for this after everything is cleaned up. If I had a welder, I'd simply weld the sleeve back on and continue to back the bolt out.
I have it soaking in more PB now. Going to grab a pair of grips with some good teeth on them and clamp into that sleeve.
I have it soaking in more PB now. Going to grab a pair of grips with some good teeth on them and clamp into that sleeve.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Mission complete.
Picked up a pair of Irwin vice grips. Worked like a charm. This sleeve wasn't welded on. It's a round sleeve, hardly any corrosion. Guessing it's some kind of heavy duty stainless and with a star shaped keyseat type pattern on it.
New issue.... Pickle forking the track bar ball joint isn't working. Any suggestions?
Picked up a pair of Irwin vice grips. Worked like a charm. This sleeve wasn't welded on. It's a round sleeve, hardly any corrosion. Guessing it's some kind of heavy duty stainless and with a star shaped keyseat type pattern on it.
New issue.... Pickle forking the track bar ball joint isn't working. Any suggestions?
#6
CF Veteran
To remove mine I bought a coupling nut (looks like a long nut, 7/16th, I think) and threaded 1" bolts into both ends of the nut. I placed that whole thing inside the frame mount and slowly loosened one of the bolts. It acted like a press inside the mount and easily pushed the compression spindle of the ball joint out of the mount.
Problem is, I'm not sure if your track bar mount is the same as the one on my '89.
Problem is, I'm not sure if your track bar mount is the same as the one on my '89.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It's all good now. I upgraded to a bigger hammer 😈.
I first put the frame mount back in as I didn't have a vice to hold it secure it in. Thought maybe by reinstalling it, I could get some some decent leverage but was wrong. Pulled it back out and propped it up on a jack stand (anvil anyone?). Three or so good wacks on the pickle fork and it popped out.
Project done.
I am however missing the grease fitting and cotter pin. So I'm off to pick up those and I should have it buttoned up before the rain stars today.
Thanks everyone for your help. I'll let you know if this cures my death wobble, though given the condition of the old balljoint, I'm sure it will.
I first put the frame mount back in as I didn't have a vice to hold it secure it in. Thought maybe by reinstalling it, I could get some some decent leverage but was wrong. Pulled it back out and propped it up on a jack stand (anvil anyone?). Three or so good wacks on the pickle fork and it popped out.
Project done.
I am however missing the grease fitting and cotter pin. So I'm off to pick up those and I should have it buttoned up before the rain stars today.
Thanks everyone for your help. I'll let you know if this cures my death wobble, though given the condition of the old balljoint, I'm sure it will.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Does the castle nut need to be tight? When fully tightened, one of the peaks blocks the cotter pin slot inside the bolt. I got the pin through, however the nut is quite loose.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Never mind.
I put a little more torque on the nut, snugged it up and got the pin through.
Wheels still seem to have some trouble recovering after some big potholes. Took a look at the steering stabilizer and it needs replacement. Looks like a bear though. I put a ratchet on the bolt that threads trough the drag link and it was just turning the nut on the other side. Another day.
No more death wobble though!
I put a little more torque on the nut, snugged it up and got the pin through.
Wheels still seem to have some trouble recovering after some big potholes. Took a look at the steering stabilizer and it needs replacement. Looks like a bear though. I put a ratchet on the bolt that threads trough the drag link and it was just turning the nut on the other side. Another day.
No more death wobble though!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
southfloridajeeps
Modified XJ Cherokee Tech
32
03-04-2023 01:10 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)