Changed out my TPS today & printed off Cruisers "how to adjust". I"m getting ZERO voltage readings on the flat & the square connectors. Brand new volt meter. Tested it on some other things & it's working fine.

I put the old TPS back in & get no readings on it either.
89 cherokee 4.0 auto.

What's puzzling me is it starts right up & runs pretty good but I'm sure it needs adjusting before I hit the road.

Anybody ever have a "no voltage"? Cause & remedies?

 

20 volt DC scale on the meter?

 

What are these scales referring to?

I have a Fluke 23III multimeter, and as far as i'm concerned i can't set these scales.

What are they even used for? should i invest in a multimeter that can set scales?

 

Yep, found a bare place in a wire so I slid a heat sleeve over it after insulating & got it all wrapped up & adjusted. (4.85 & .84) Idles & shifts 100% better.

So to date in my rebuild of this thing I have replaced all the freeze plugs, rear main & timing chain seal, radiator, water pump & t stat, ac comp, heater hoses, vc gasket, plugs, wires, dizzy, ignit coil, bosch injectors, fuel filter & reg, front & rear vac harnesses, o2, IAC, TPS, CPS, MAP sensors.
I took Cruisers tips page & added 4 gauge grounds from NAPA at the battery terminal & firewall. Cleaned & shined up the connection down back of the oil dipstick tube. I refreshed ALL all the electrical connections.
I drilled out the upper hole in the CPS bracket to 3/8 & held it firmly down to the bell housing while tightening it back.
I put a new ballast res on today & the damn thing shut off as soon as it started. I put the old back on & she ran fine. The old one is a solid piece. The new one had an open cavity on the backside. What's up with that? I haven't been able to find a new solid piece unit.

And guess what? I still have hot no-starts. Can't figure it out. Nobody can. If it's at normal op. temp. , it will start right back up. If I wait 5 minutes I have to wait till it cools down completely.
I checked fuel pressure & it's 39 & 31. Pump sounds strong when I turn the key.
About all left to replace would be the cam sensor, fuel pump, it's an airteck, I guess maybe the ICM.

Dang thing runs great till I try to re-start when it's warm.................

I'm lost right now...........

 

Best I could find: http://www.tequipment.net/pdf/77,75,..._InstSheet.pdf

1. Test points should be on the right for ground and volts
2. Dial set to V
3. Use the 'manual range' button to set to 32v

That's what I found when I read the manual.

 

The Airtex fuel pump bothers me a bit but not because of your present symptoms. Perhaps the ICM/coil has a heat issue?

There is a test for the distributor sensor, which is NOT a cam sensor on a Renix BTW. Try this. Unplug the dizzy and see what happens.

 

Take a closer look at this. These have a very bad reputation.

 

I've read some threads about the airtex. I crawled under there yesterday & saw the sticker on it.
I may just flip a coin to decide what to replace next. 90% of these parts were going to be replaced anyway while restoring this thing & I was hoping one of em would fix the hot no-start. It was doing this last June when I bought it.
I cleaned the throttle body yesterday when I put the new TPS on & it runs really smooth now.
I'll take a deep breath & keep going lol.........

 

Cruiser do you mean un-plug it when I have the hot no-start? I didn't think a gimpy pick up coil would cause non starting issues?

But I could be wrong.......

 

I mean drive it with the dizzy unplugged.