fairlycrass

I have spent some time digging on the forums, but didn't find anything specific to my question.

I have a 13' (1,900 lbs.) camper I want to pull with my 1991 Jeep Cherokee Sport (I6 4.0, 5-speed 4wd). The camper is pretty light, but it is tall (probably over 8' high, and 6.5' wide), so lots of wind resistance. There is a class three hitch on there, and a 7-prong connector for the trailer. How do I know if this is a factory towing setup? Am I pushing it pulling a trailer this size with the Jeep (210k miles)? Any tips on installing a brake controller, assuming it isn't the factory towing package? The part I'm struggling with is how to get the wiring through the firewall, which seems like it should be the easy part.

Help!

Rainycity

I would worry more about stopping it I think, cherokees don`t have the strongest brakes as far as I can tell from my own experience..

4-play

Trailer brakes are needed. Any RV shop will have one and they are not that hard to install. As far as the wiring goes, follow some wiring that already runs through the firewall....a 7 pin plug will be suitable for a travel trailer. This plug will include the brake lights, signals, running lights, trailer brakes, and charge the trailers battery as your vehicle is running. If you are going to tow the travel trailer, I would highly recommend some equalizer bars as well. This will balance out the tongue weight and not overload the back end of the Jeep. The weight you state is probably the dry weight of the trailer. Once you get it loaded with propane, water, food, clothes, etc, it will weigh CONSIDERABLY more. It is probably going to work your Jeep pretty hard!

upritexj

I'd have agree W/4-play, xj brakes and rear springs aren't that great new, much less 19 yrs old. And if its a hot summer day you may have some overheating issues as well.

fairlycrass

1,900 lbs. was what it weighed on a truck scale, with propane tanks mostly full, all of the pots and other cooking stuff, spare tire, etc. I removed about 75 lbs. that made up a top bunk, since I didn't need it, so with food, clothes, water, it is probably a little over 1,900, I'd guess.

I stuck some pictures below, so you'd have an idea of what kind of camper we're talking about--pretty small. 13' or so from rear bumper to hitch.

I do have a brake controller already. I had it in an '89 4Runner (RIP). I understand the wiring at the hitch end--that part is easy. I just can't figure out how to get wiring through to the cab, so I can get power to it, and a line to the rear for brakes. I couldn't get wiring through where there was existing wiring through the firewall--the wires seem like they're actually fused to the grommets.

This thing has rear air shocks, but I think the hose for one of them must be crimped, because it won't go up. It seems like that would help quite a bit. Any other advice is much appreciated.

McRay

I towed during hunting season about 2300 lbs. With flat trailer loaded with heavy atv and all the 50lbs bags of corn I could load on the trailer. Jeep does good and pulls good in flat country does not do good in hilly country. You will have lots of wind resistance, I have Tehonsha Voyager for braking with a round 7 way connector for trailer brakes with a circuit breaker 30 amp also a breakaway cable switch with external battery for locking brakes if trailer comes loose.

truckntractorhick

you'll be fine!

whowey

There should be a couple of plugs above the existing wiring which you can pop out and run your wires through. If you do, run to the auto parts store and get a package of grommets so that the wires do not chafe against the metal and short out.

Also pick-up a circuit breaker with the correct amperage to cover your brake controller.

Also a good number of the controller manufacturers have their specific wiring diagrams available online. Download one so that you will have the correct diagram available as you work.

When I wired mine into my old ZJ, I needed to run the brake wire(blue) to the back of the Jeep. I ended up running it along the fuel lines on uni-frame rail and zip-tieing it to them.

If you have a 7-pin plug on you Jeep now, what does your trailer have??? 4-wires for lights.(but you have no reverse lights on your trailer). 1 wire for the brake controller, 1 wire for ground, 1 wire for batteries or auxillary..

I REALLY hope you don't have your batteries inside your trailer...



EDIT: Quick google search turned up this on 7-pin wiring....
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

fairlycrass

Thanks Whowey. I don't have a box for the battery, so in the past I've just had it in the trailer until we get to the destination, then set it out on the tongue while we're camped. Haven't been out long enough to have to recharge yet. And actually, I don't even wind up using it every time--it's just for lighting (small automotive bulbs) anyway --everything else, including the furnace, is propane only.

I've got the self-resetting breaker, the wiring, and the diagrams. The trailer has the 6-pin controller, and the Jeep has a 7-pin connection, so I have an adapter. Right now, everything (turn lights, brake lights, running lights, and 12v) is working fine with the existing wiring, so I just need to get the 12v through the firewall to the controller, and then a line from the controller back to the harness. I figured I would do just what you suggest--zip tie it back along the frame, rather than through the vehicle.

I couldn't find any plugs to pop out so that I could get through the wall. There are some really tiny holes from the engine compartment into the fender, and I think I cold get it from there into the cab, but I'm afraid theyd short on those small holes, since I couldn't get a grommet around it. I was sure there had to be another hole there with plugs, but can't find one.

whowey

There should be a plugged hole or two just below the brake master cylinder.

fairlycrass

Is it buried behind something? I couldn't see one there.

whowey

Its pretty crowded on the engine side. It would be easier to see them from inside the cab... but getting under the dash is a pain in the ****.

fairlycrass

I saw others suggesting to put it through where the hood release cable comes through. This is fairly heavy wire (8 ga.), so not sure if it will go there, but might give that a try, when it warms up (not a fun job when it's cold, blowing, and icy).

fairlycrass

I put two holes (one for power going in from battery, one for power going back to brake terminal on hitch connector) in an existing grommet under the driver's side. I pulled the grommet out toward the engine side first, to make the drilling easier/safer. If anyone needs pictures or better description for a future install, let me know.

Thanks all, for the input!

fairlycrass

Oh--I also have some new Monroe air shocks sitting in the garage. The old air shocks were no good. That should help the sag problem.