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tips and tricks needed for rebuild engine

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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 09:45 AM
  #1  
blazer 2008's Avatar
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From: Vernon B.C. Can.
Year: 89
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Default tips and tricks needed for rebuild engine

I have a 89 4.0 auto and is time to rebuild the engine so I was looking for any upgrades or tips so I don,t wish I had done it after it,s done.I know I would like to upgrade the injecters and change the rad to a open system.Anything else someone has done or wished they had done?
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L HO
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I'd give the cooling system conversion a second thought. U didn't say why u wanted to convert but, an "open" system will not cool better than a "closed" system. There r some advantages to "closed" vs "open".
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 09:03 AM
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From: Vernon B.C. Can.
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Originally Posted by djb383
I'd give the cooling system conversion a second thought. U didn't say why u wanted to convert but, an "open" system will not cool better than a "closed" system. There r some advantages to "closed" vs "open".
I,ve had a couple of bad plastic overflow tanks.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 09:51 AM
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
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How many engines have you rebuilt, total? Do you have all the tools needed to do the job correctly along with a shop to do it in.

Another important part of any rebuild is a "GOOD" machine shop, not the low bidder for the work they do because they make or break a rebuild just like the person rebuilding the engine. In any rebuild the devil really is in the details.

I have been down these roads many times in the last 50 years of having engines rebuilt, the ones I really carried about. Kind of like cheap parts that come back to haunt you. Build the best motor that you can afford without taking anything from your family, then live with the fact of knowing you did the very best you could.

Good luck with your build and remember the OEM parts will run up to 300,000 mi as seen a lot of times here, so you might want to keep that in the back of your mind when buying parts.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:01 AM
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From: Vernon B.C. Can.
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Originally Posted by Fred/N0AZZ
How many engines have you rebuilt, total? Do you have all the tools needed to do the job correctly along with a shop to do it in.

Another important part of any rebuild is a "GOOD" machine shop, not the low bidder for the work they do because they make or break a rebuild just like the person rebuilding the engine. In any rebuild the devil really is in the details.

I have been down these roads many times in the last 50 years of having engines rebuilt, the ones I really carried about. Kind of like cheap parts that come back to haunt you. Build the best motor that you can afford without taking anything from your family, then live with the fact of knowing you did the very best you could.

Good luck with your build and remember the OEM parts will run up to 300,000 mi as seen a lot of times here, so you might want to keep that in the back of your mind when buying parts.
I,ve done 5 or 6 but all chevs,the jeep motor is getting close to 300,000 K,s but still runs good just getting tired
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by blazer 2008
I,ve had a couple of bad plastic overflow tanks.
You can get a heavy duty one from a Sebring that fits very well and uses a normal type cap.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:25 AM
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by blazer 2008
I,ve done 5 or 6 but all chevs,the jeep motor is getting close to 300,000 K,s but still runs good just getting tired
Most all my engine rebuilding has been with SBC's as well still have 5 of them in my race shop. I'm having my 4.0 rebuilt by my race car engine builder to mostly stock but with a full race spec. as far as machine work and race tolerance's. Just making a great engine better like a SBC and my Dart blocks.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 10:49 AM
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From: Saginaw Mi area
Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0
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What Fred said.....
On other forums, people talk about bad machine shops, so they are out there doing business.
Luckily there is a really good one near here, in Bay City Mi.

I've been building my own engines since the 50s, and they included mostly GM stuff, (except that I never did any Buicks !)a few Chrysler Hemis, Chrysler "A" engines, and a few Fords.

Having the tools to do it yourself, and getting it right, makes for big satisfaction & pride, but it's also about having measuring tools too, and not just the usual tool box.

Also been an A&P ( aircraft tech) for 45 years, different type engines, but basically the same principle as what we deal with here.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 05:47 PM
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
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Originally Posted by blazer 2008
I,ve had a couple of bad plastic overflow tanks.
Do u fully understand the correct way to do an "open" conversion? It's much easier to replace a plastic bottle. Again, there r advantages of a "closed" over "open".
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 08:57 AM
  #10  
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From: Vernon B.C. Can.
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You can get a heavy duty one from a Sebring that fits very well and uses a normal type cap.
do you know which year ?
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 05:28 PM
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From: Prescott, Az
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Originally Posted by blazer 2008
do you know which year ?
Sorry, I don't. It's one of them that uses a regular radiator cap.
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 05:39 PM
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Year: 2000 sport
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Sorry, I don't. It's one of them that uses a regular radiator cap.
Here are two for 01-06 so maybe those years??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-STRATUS-CHRYSLER-SEBRING-COOLANT-OVERFLOW-BOTTLE-TANK-2-7-DOHC-MOPAR-OEM-/111024871714?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-06-Dodge-Stratus-Chrysler-Sebring-2-7-V6-Coolant-Recovery-Overflow-Tank-OEM/320959207824?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27538%26meid%3Dc797052f9da544eab0779e22b61dd46e%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D11353%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D24%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D111024871714

Last edited by Dumajones; Dec 8, 2014 at 06:20 PM.
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