Timing Chain Tensioner
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 684
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From: St. George Utah
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Rebuilt Renix "Low Output" haha
Well i got my replacement timing chain cover from the dealer as a kit, and it didn't come with the plastic timing chain tensioner thing. My question is how important is it to have it? Should i try to track one down?
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 5,188
Likes: 6
From: Bristol,Pa
Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I just did this job recently on a friends grand... and broke that black plastic chain snubber.. i think my bud got his from Quadratec but i cant seem to find it on their site. It was only a few bucks.
I'd install one, too much work to throw one in later..
I'd install one, too much work to throw one in later..
If you haven't broken yours, it can be reused. I've reused three or four.
It's not a "tensioner" per se, it's just a "flop catcher." It's really just there to keep the timing chain slack (there's always some, but it needs to be below an acceptable minimum. If the chain is exposed, make sure you don't have more than 1/4" of total deflection on either long span. If the cover is still on, you can check by pulling the dizzy cap off. Then, turn the crank nose screw one way (doesn't matter which) to take the slack out of one side of the chain, then turn it slowly the other way and watch the rotor. You should not be able to turn the screw more than 10* or so before the rotor moves. If it does, you'll want to pull the chain cover and check - but it's a "quick and dirty" way to see if further inspection is warranted. It's part of my regular annual inspection...
It's not a "tensioner" per se, it's just a "flop catcher." It's really just there to keep the timing chain slack (there's always some, but it needs to be below an acceptable minimum. If the chain is exposed, make sure you don't have more than 1/4" of total deflection on either long span. If the cover is still on, you can check by pulling the dizzy cap off. Then, turn the crank nose screw one way (doesn't matter which) to take the slack out of one side of the chain, then turn it slowly the other way and watch the rotor. You should not be able to turn the screw more than 10* or so before the rotor moves. If it does, you'll want to pull the chain cover and check - but it's a "quick and dirty" way to see if further inspection is warranted. It's part of my regular annual inspection...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 684
Likes: 1
From: St. George Utah
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Rebuilt Renix "Low Output" haha
all right, that makes much more sense. I might as well slap one in there while i have my motor out, and my engine apart. thanks everyone.
But, it's mainly there for noise control - to keep chain slap down. It doesn't actually put tension on the chain, since cam-in-block chains really don't have long enough spans to need it (OHC chains do - but that's because they run from the crank to the top of the cylinder head. You're looking at going from a "span" of 3-5" to about a foot and a half...)
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